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Derek, a retired UK diplomat, contacted the Beetle to say that all too often the controversy over whether or not to visit Burma tends to overlook the very important issue of whether the people of Burma themselves are happy to see and meet foreign tourists. Derek, who is to visit Burma again next month, has made a study of anecdotal reports of Burmese attitudes over the last five years – alas the sole source of information in the absence of credible opinion polls – and his conclusion is that the Burmese people themselves very much favour visits by tourists and travellers to their country by a margin of at least 10 to 1. We have reproduced a cut down version of his survey.

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Some travel correspondents say that on their visits they found it difficult, if not impossible to find any Burmese, even rank and file members of Daw Suu Kyi’s National League for Democracy, who were against tourism to their country, despite Daw Suu Kyi’s strictures. A “search” on Alta Vista for “Burma Travel Boycott” any evening will produce over 3,000 “hits”. A sample selection of reported Burmese views from these “hits” confirms my conclusion that the Burmese people generally really do want tourists and travellers to visit.

It is for many their main source of income, protection against the excesses of the military and an assurance that their plight may at least be witnessed by those who are sensitive observers. Travel and tourism indeed advance the cause of democracy.

My simple conclusion is that we should primarily be guided by the wishes and advice of the Burmese people , and not that of the UK Government whose policy is to “strongly discourage tourism to Burma” – FCO Minister Bill Rammell, 25 November 2003, speech on “Why Human Rights Matter” to the Institute for Public Policy Research.

Tourism is admittedly a source, but not, as another FCO Minister, Mike O’Brien stated in a letter on 14 July 2003 to the Chief Executive of ABTA, Ian Reynolds, “an important source” of hard currency for the SPDC. Net profits pale into insignificance against the US$ 2-3 billion purchases in recent years, mostly from China, of arms and military equipment. Most hotels are barely covering their operating costs. Remittances by tourist enterprises out of Burma of some US$ 25 million annually [IMF estimates] for essential payments punch quote a hole in US$ 100 million annual revenue. Local costs swallow up much of the balance. It is not credible to argue that tourism is in any serious sense helping to prop up the regime. It would do so if numbers increased tenfold, but this isn’t likely to happen for a very long time.

There is no doubt that Daw Suu Kyi would prefer tourists to delay visiting Burma. Over the years, she has advanced numerous reasons for not visiting Burma, some of which are not all that convincing, notably arguments about giving the regime “legitimacy” (while the UK accepts Burma as Myanmar at the UN and maintains full diplomatic relations, with an Ambassador in post), about “it’s better to stay at home and read some of the many human rights reports there are” (which is not perhaps the best way to experience and witness what is going on in Burma), about “the bulk of the money goes straight into the pockets of the Generals” (when revenue clearly goes to meeting operating expenses, debt, depreciation, transfer to reserves etc.), about “Burma will still be there when the time is ripe” (but not for octogenarian veterans of the Burma Campaign, while for scholars, linguists, ethnologists, Buddhist scholars and many others with specialist interests Burma has been a hermit kingdom ever since the military took over in 1962), about “we haven’t had time to discuss it [tourism policy] properly” at a news conference in May 2002 (which might leave some of us still wondering what NLD policy really is).

The tourist trade has been hard hit by the latest indiscriminate US sanctions which have led to the suspension of all credit card transactions in Burma and restrictions on the utilisation of the US Dollar. Quite soon, thousands of postcard sellers and stall holders, tourist guides, hotel staff and drivers will be joining the 80,000 or so textile workers who have been made unemployed.

No-one in Burma is making any serious money out of tourism at present, and what is the point of allocating beach land to cronies of the regime when there is no investment capital available to develop projects? Occasionally critics point to the Shangri-La Traders Hotel as an example of a Joint Venture which must be making money for the SPDC. They might be surprised to know that Traders Hotel has been in liquidation since 1999.

Tourism is about meeting people, and in the case of Burma letting the Burmese know that the outside world has not forgotten them.

Derek Tonkin

If you would like to contact Derek, he can be reached by e-mail as follows: d.tonkin@btopenworld.com

‘Mwenge’ is the Kiswahili word for torch but it also represents a major national event in Tanzania, which is also known in English as the National Torch Run. If you can imagine an African version of the carrying of the Olympic Flame, restrict it to one country but take it all over that country, and make it an annual event which has a ‘message’ to pass to the people – that is ‘Mwenge’.

‘Mwenge’ began as a single event in 1961, as part of Tanzania’s Independence celebrations, when a burning torch was carried to the summit of Mt Kilimanjaro. A few years later, the nation-wide runs began and it is now an annual event. In the technologically advanced countries awareness of major issues is spread through newspapers, television and radio. Tanzania, although now trying hard to catch up, has not had these advantages, and so the ‘Mwenge’ is run with the purpose of spreading a message – a different message each year. The original Mt Kilimanjaro torch was to celebrate President Nyerere’s independence slogan ‘Umoja na Kazi’ ‘Unity and Labour’ – there have been issues such as encouraging parents to send their children to school and this year it was HIV/AIDS awareness.

One Tuesday evening 2 ladies from Mtwara Town Council appeared and asked if we would be prepared to ‘host’ the ‘Mwenge’ breakfast on the following Thursday – 2 days later – for the runners and officials – a total of 40 people. It was to consist of a cup of tea, a hard-boiled egg and a bread roll. They would only stay for about 15 minutes and then move on to the next place. This seemed a simple request and despite their pitiful budget we decided that this was a reasonable public relations exercise. I am not sure that we could have refused – it would not have been a diplomatic move to turn down the opportunity to be involved in this event.

We had been advised to expect the runners and their entourage at 10.00am but would be ready for an earlier arrival. So, at 9.45 we were ready and, together with several other members of staff, I climbed up the Boma tower from where we had a spectacular view of the bridge at the far end of Mikindani. Below us in the village we could hear singing and drums as the party atmosphere got underway. Already on the bridge was a convoy of cars, pickup trucks, motor bicycles and people. It seemed a long time before they slowly moved off but eventually they started moving, and we watched this motorised cavalcade wend its way though Mikindani. The convoy was accompanied, as always, by crowds of people, and along the route there were groups of people dancing, playing drums and singing all adding to a real celebration and party atmosphere. The convoy stopped when it reached the Clinic by the Friday Mosque, and message-carrying speeches were made to the Mikindani people. Then they all moved to the open area by Livingstone House, where the runners and officials left the crowd and walked up to the Boma for their breakfast. The crowd remained down by the official cars parked outside Samaki and Livingstone – it appeared that most of the people of Mikindani had taken a ½ day off to celebrate ‘Mwenge’.

The District Commissioner and other Mtwara officials enjoying their breakfast by the Boma swimming pool were joined by 5 of the 6 runners – unfortunately the only girl in the group was unwell, and remained sleeping in the car. After the food had been consumed, the District Commissioner stood up and made a short speech on the importance of ‘Mwenge’, and what it stands for, together with the honour of being chosen to run throughout Tanzania for this cause. Almost as quickly as they had arrived, they all left. They had arrived half an hour late, but by 11.00 they had gone. The 40 breakfasts had grown to 42, and they had also bought some bottles of water. We certainly did not make any cash profit, but we had participated in a national event and hopefully shown a little goodwill, and were proud to have done so. We were left clearing up, knowing that the next village to receive them would have to provide lunch – a much more extravagant meal!

For more information about Trade Aid, see: www.mikindani.com

What is it: Lassa fever is an acute viral illness that occurs in West Africa. It is highly contagious and occurs mainly in the dry season in West Africa, particularly Guinea, Liberia, Nigeria, Sierra Leone, and the DRC.

How do I get it: Rodents shed the virus in urine and droppings which means that the virus can be transmitted through direct contact with these materials, through touching objects or eating food contaminated with these materials, or through cuts or sores.

What happens if I get it: Symptoms of Lassa Fever typically occur 1-3 weeks after the patient comes into contact with the virus. These include: fever, pain behind the chest wall, sore throat, back pain, cough, abdominal pain, vomiting, diarrhoea and a rash. After four weeks occur: bleeding, ascites and shock. Death occurs in 50 % of patients.

Diagnose and treatment: the virus can be detected in blood and urine. The anti-viral agent Ribavarin can be used, otherwise it is a question of symptom control and intensive care.

How can I avoid contracting Lassa fever: avoid contact with rodents.

Judy from the US write in to tell the Beetle about her recent visit to Siem Reap. This is what she says:

My husband and I were in Siem Reap for the full moon 8 Nov 03. Candles were set floating in the Siem Reap River which flows through the village. It was an awesome night scene. Boat races were also held at this time with competing teams from all over Cambodia.

One Swiss couple told us of an encounter they had upon entering the country. The left Bangkok by train to the border, then transferred to a tuk-tuk to cross over to a waiting truck. While taking the truck ride to SR they had their money and cell phone taken. Some American girls said they had taken the boat ride from Phnom Penh and had a good experience, including sightings of the Vietnamese boat people.

Siem Reap is a very safe place in the evenings by our experiences. The temples are a sight to behold…still in an unspoiled state. Take an extra passport photo to put on your temple permit as the photo queue can be long. The helium balloon ride is a great bargain $11.00 US to get a wonderful view of the Angkor Wat and nearby temples.

Sunrise and sunset are times to get pictures with the Angkor Wat reflecting in the moat waters. The guides suggest you take a hike up a very steep hill and then upon a temple to get a view of the sunset over the countryside; not the Angkor Wat. We rode by tuk-tuk to Chong Khneas and took a boat ride to see the Vietnamese floating village which was quite interesting and photographic.

The food was excellent and varied, especially like the Cambodian noodles. This was just the unspoiled area that we wanted to visit. Being from the Midwest US we had arranged a guide for 1 1/2 days and spent two days on our own. I think you need time just to sit and reflect on what a sight you are witnessing, Ta Prohm with the trees growing out of the stones and Angkor Thom were impressive.

The latter part of the flight over was terrific, with snow on the Gran Sasso first and then, towards the end, there was the fabulous spectacle of the Aeolian Islands with Stromboli puffing away. Etna, on Sicily itself, was puffing a bit but nothing to suggest the major eruption it had the next winter. We flew past it and into Catania.

I was pleased to find that I could get a bus direct from the airport to Siracusa without going into Catania and only had about fifty minutes to wait with a view of Etna to while away the time. More of the Sicilian coast than I had expected was spoilt by industry and far less by tourism and to be honest I did not particularly enjoy the bus journey to Siracusa. Fortunately it was only about an hour. I had booked for the first two nights at the Bel-Sit and I had seen where it was on the small map in the Rough Guide. Would I be able to recognise it on the ground though and save time going to the terminus and back? I was quite proud of myself as I alighted from the coach, got out my case, helped an attractive woman out with hers and watched the bus leave. My pride lasted all of twenty-three seconds until I discovered that the case was not mine! Somehow my Italian came up to telling the woman I had helped what had happened and I was given a lift in the car picking her up to pursue the bus. Strangely the conversation with the woman driver was in the neutral language of Spanish! There at its terminus was the bus and there, outside it were my case, some very crestfallen passengers who had of course lost theirs, the driver who looked as though he would rather be somewhere else – anywhere else in fact – and the inevitable police inspector. Great was the jubilation, as G.F. Handel said! This ended very well for me with a lift back up the hill and the first woman escorting me – and carrying my case – to the Bel-Sit; a bit more than I had deserved perhaps!

Two areas demand to be visited. These are the old part of the city at Ortygia, where the bus terminus was, and the Parco Archeológico. I went down to Ortygia that same evening, just too late for the tourist office opening times, and enjoyed a brief stroll round and a good pizza. It was quite good enough to call me back the next morning but, other than getting the map and literature I wanted from the tourist office, I was just a shade disappointed. Ortygia is near enough an island and not a very big one; I had not realised that the point, which should have given a good sea view, was out of bounds to visitors because of the requirements of the army. In general the area should probably be regarded as a must see by anyone who has not been to any of the beautiful old towns on the Italian mainland but, unusually, I was as much struck by the displayed poverty of some areas as anything. The cathedral is very interesting, though scarcely beautiful, from the outside with bits being part of an earlier Greek temple. However, contrary to my usual view in southern Europe, the interior, which contains some strikingly beautiful columns, provides a better spectacle. Taken as a whole I preferred Ortygia at night and the jury was still out on Siracusa as I took a bus and then a walk to the entrance to the Parco Archeológico.

The jury did not stay out long, however. This is terrific and, for a person like me who has never been to Greece, it was truly magic. I do not mean to belittle the sights in Sicily by saying this. The Greek remains in Sicily are regarded by experts as being of top order. I did classics in the sixth form and I well remember the campaigns of Athens and Sparta and the importance of Sicily in general and Siracusa in particular, in the Peloponnesian War. The splendid and vast Greek theatre here dates back to the fifth century BC and I found it quite spellbinding. Near it were the old Latomie del Paradiso, quarries and later the prison for Athenian prisoners of war. Paradise indeed? Even in February the heat would have suggested a very different theological area, particularly for those who had to work in the quarries. Particularly outstanding in the view is the Orecchio di Dionissio [ear of Dionysus,] a large cavern well up the cliff. Not far away is the Roman Amphitheatre, which became so much used for blood sports that another smaller one had to be built back in the town for drama.

Siracusa would have repaid a longer visit.

David Cross was a keen walker, particularly on mountains before he developed serious heart problems in 1995. He has now adapted his holidays to what he is able to do and we are presenting his account of 12 days in Sicily over this and the coming months. Next episode – Agrigento