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Stay Free in the UK

A new website offers an alternative way to stay in the UK – free! YouStayFree.com offers unlimited free hotel accommodation for members at selected UK hotels.

Members pay a yearly fee (presently £24.95) and must pay a minimum amount for meals at the hotel. There are some restrictions, but average savings for a couple on a 2 night break could easily be over £100. Website: youstayfree.com

Source: britainexpress.com The UK travel and heritage guide


A Round the World Trip by Stephen Petter in the UK

My partner and I (aged 55 and 65) went RTW for 12 months to April 2002. She has written a book on it but is looking for a publisher. I went to internet cafes to maintain a long journal. So rather than travellers' tales here are some notes on how we did it. The RTW deal was from Star Alliance, giving us 12 months, 15 stops and 39000 miles. A couple of times when in dispute with an airline the Alliance link was useful. Their miles include overland legs which seems unfair but it is still good value. They allow backtracking, which we needed for India to China.

We flew to Brazil for two lazy weeks to get over the strain of preparations, then to Lima. We took buses – we avoided 'luxury' or 'tourist' buses -round Peru and despite being told it was impossible found a cheap way to Macchu Picchu. Three-day trips to Colca Canyon and to the Peruvian Amazon jungle. Bus and boat (aided by the Bolivian Navy!) to cold La Paz then bus on 'the most dangerous road in the world' to lovely Coroico. Flew to Costa Rica, which seemed very wealthy and grotesquely American!

But we had a wonderful time there – eco-tourism on the Caribbean coast and in the cloud forest. I wrote a report on working conditions on the banana plantations. Then buses through sad Nicaragua, tough Honduras (staying with the Garifuna) and Guatemala with its staggering range of wealth. We were in luxury after three months of back packers' hotels and crowded but fascinating bus journeys. Then we bought a car in Florida and eventually sold it in British Columbia. (One could write a book this, as on each leg of the journey.) This was not as easy as it sounds – big problems with driver's licence and insurance. But surmountable. Boat and bus to Houston BC. Strange coming back to sophistication a few days after 9/11, a different world. Hawaii then fabulous Tonga. Real bliss as the only visitors on an idyllic island, and time to think. Here my partner discovered the magic of snorkelling.

NZ was surprisingly far nicer than expected, Sydney also amazes. We were kept busy there and in Canberra and Melbourne giving talks. Thailand where we made lasting friends, one a young man not half way through 25 years imprisonment for drug smuggling. Don’t even think about it! Interesting to contrast the type of tourists here with those in S America. Almost a different breed. So to the jewel. Three months in India lived up to all my hopes and dreams. A stopover in steamy sophisticated Singapore (the night time zoo worth a visit) thence to Beijing, and onto the trans-Asia train with stops including three weeks in Mongolia (hiring a jeep to traverse the Gobi), Siberia (Lake Baikal), Moscow and glorious St Petersburg.

Stockholm was refreshing and spring time in England utterly delightful. Total cost was less than £4,000 on fares, plus £400 a week rent we got on our London homes. We ate local workers' food. We often stayed in people's homes – fellow Quakers, a hosting organisation, far flung family and friends. Otherwise in the better rooms in cheap hotels. Motels (except some on Route 66) have no character but are great value. Or ashrams. The only problematic visa was that for Russia, though others such as India and China needed some care. I was surprised to find one of the most irksome problems was telephoning – one needs to see if mobiles can be adapted cheaply in each region. Only disappointments: despite three weeks in most places we usually seemed to be in a hurry, and sadly I lost several sets of slides.

Essentials include up-to-date Guides. We used Footprint guides for Latin America because it avoids having lots of volumes; and for India as well as Lonely Planet there and everywhere else. “Road Trip USA” for the side roads. Take both Visa and MasterCard (and Maestro if possible) as many areas take only one or the other. We had all the jabs recommended except expensive encephalitis. We never resolved all the arguments for and against anti-malaria tablets, and if so which ones. But insect repellent from day 1, and a hat if you are bald like me. I had to have scalp pre-cancer treatment on return. I was supplied with and shown how to use self-catheterisation by the NHS. Never had to do it but without it I would not have dared go to Tonga, or deep into the Gobi.

Medically we had very few problems, tummy bug twice, and chest complaints in the Andes. I got shingles when in Thailand but was easily able to get powerful drugs (for £50 – a fortune), which knocked it out. But we had quite a few strains from lugging our packs (and from 3 days meditating cross legged in a Buddhist temple!) We both had Karrimor wheeled rucksacks and seldom had to hump them. My advice – just DO IT! Don't worry about food and accommodation and robbery.

Ignore travel mags and ads. They make it scary so you'll use their expensive services. Just GO! Details on the web site (at http://home.clara.net/spetter/sp/, but sadly I don't have time and space to mention our lovely hosts and the travellers and locals we met. To contact Stephen for any hints or tips, please e-mail him on: spetter@clara.net


A visit to Durban by Geoff Fairman

Today we will visit Durban which is a city situated on the east coast of South Africa. It has a sub tropical climate opposed to that of Cape Town, which is Mediterranean.

What has Durban to offer the tourist or visitor? Along the beach front are many hotels and blocks of holiday flats. This area is called the Golden Mile.

Hotels on the beachfront have magnificent views over Durban Bay and the Bluff to south. Along Durban's beaches jetties have been built out into the sea. They have the effect of turning the long golden beaches into small bays, which can be protected by lifeguards during the holiday seasons.

Durban is well known for its sharks. All the beaches are protected by shark nets that have been installed about 300 metres off shore on the outside of the breaker line. It is very interesting to watch the Natal Sharks Board out in the bay each morning tending the nets and removing any fish that have become entangled during the night. If they are still alive they are released otherwise they are taken to the shark boards offices to the north of Durban where they are dissected for research purposes.

The “ Golden mile” is always a hive of activity with the many restaurants, pubs and bars to be visited. At night many people come down to the beaches to relax and enjoy the atmosphere or just to party.

Durban is also famous for it Rikshas. A Riksha for those who don't know is and African man who wears a very fancy head dress made of beads and cows horns and bits and pieces of cheap jewellery and feathers and other odds and ends. The Riksha also has a cart with two large wheels and a seat where two adults or three kids can fit into. For a small fee you will be taken for a ride along the beachfront with this man wearing his head dress pulling the cart. The ride can get quite exciting when the riksha picks up a bit of speed and leaps into the air balancing his weight and yours like a seesaw. When he does this without warning the passengers are thrown backwards and think they are going to fall out the back of his cart. Not to worry! There is a small jockey wheel at the back that stops the cart falling over and you falling out.

There are many other things to do in Durban other than just swimming and tanning. Although most of the action takes place along the beachfront there are other areas where there is much to do. The two main roads in Durban are Smith Street and West Street. Both of them are one way only with West Street going towards the beach and Smith away from the beach.

The main shopping areas of Durban are found along these streets.

There are also many sports facilities with the main arenas being Kingsmead for cricket and the Shark Tank for rugby.

Most people will have heard of the Comrades marathon. This marathon is run between Durban and Pietermaritzburg each year, one year up and the other year down. It is a gruelling race that is normally run in hot weather and it attracts 1000's of people. The race is 89 kilometres long and follows the old road between Pietermaritzburg and Durban. The next Comrades Marathon will be held on the 16th of June 2003 and will be the down run i.e. Pietermaritzburg to Durban.

The scenery between Pietermaritzburg and Durban is beautiful. The old road wends its way through the valley of a thousand hills. As far as one can see there are just hills. Vegetation is lush and if the province has received rain very green. In Pinetown a small town between PM Burg and Durbs there is a beautiful waterfall. Its called the Howick falls and although not very big is quite spectacular.

Durban also grows various varieties of tropical fruit. Fruit such as Paw Paws, mangoes, avocado pears and of course bananas. Their avos are to die for. On the occasions that I have visited Durban I have always made an effort to get a grass wash basket full of green avos to take home.

If you drive out into the country areas surrounding Durban you will come across many farms growing sugar cane. This is one of the main products grown in the area. Durban is known as the sugar capital of South Africa and you can see many large silos where sugar is stored. A tour of the refineries is very interesting as they show you the entire process from where the cane is pulped to where the white sugar is finally packaged to be shipped.

Durban is one of South Africa’s premier holiday destinations. Visit in July and watch the Durban July horse race.

Geoff Fairman writes an ezine called Turtle Essays that concentrates on Cape Town and its surrounds. To subscribe send a blank email to TurtleEssays-subscribe@turtlesa.com

or read the ezines online at http://www.turtlesa.com


Deaths in Congo

If you were thinking of travelling to northern Congo to see the gorillas – don’t. At least 48 people are believed to have died in a suspected outbreak of Ebola in the north of Congo-Brazzaville, near the border with Gabon. Ebola is reported to have killed 43 people in Congo and 53 others in neighbouring Gabon between October 2001 and February 2002. The WHO says more than 1,000 people have died of Ebola since the virus was first identified in 1976 in western Sudan and in a nearby region of Congo. There is no cure for Ebola, which causes up to 95% of its victims to bleed to death.

The authorities were first alerted to a possible outbreak of Ebola when a clan of gorillas in the region began to die in December. Tests carried out on the bodies confirmed that the gorillas had died from the Ebola virus, which has now claimed more than 80% of that gorilla clan. According to on the scene World Health Experts, it seems likely that eating bush meat such as gorilla, gazelle and antelope caused the human deaths.


Some Fan Mail!

Cheryl, from Canada wrote in to say: “just wanted to write and say “thanks” for putting me on the globetrotters list – I really enjoy the newsletter.

Hey, write to us – drop us a line, e-mail – we want to hear from you!


London Markets: Brick Lane in the East End

As its name suggests, Brick Lane gets its name from the local manufacture of bricks. By the early 18th Century it was a long well-paved street frequented by carts fetching bricks into Whitechapel from brick kilns. The other industry in the area was beer, which was brewed in the Truman Black Eagle Brewery, founded in 1669. The brewery building still remains today, now converted to designers/artists' studios, workshops and bars. Brick Lane Market developed in the 18th century when farmers sold livestock and produce outside the City boundary.

Today, Brick Lane is now the centre of London's Bangladeshi community and best known for a whole line of fantastic Bengali restaurants. Of interest is the London Jamme Masjid, a mosque on the corner of Fournier Street and Brick Lane. It was built in 1744 as a Huguenot church, purchased by Wesleyans, sold to a Jewish immigrant society in 1897, after which it became a synagogue.

The market is open on Sundays only, from early morning until about 14.00 – allow plenty of time to see it all as the market stretches into Cheshire Street and Sclater Street. Expect to find anything from furniture to fruits, kitchenware to kitsch and odd boots to bangles.

To get there, take the District (green) line to Aldgate East, turn left out of the station and left again into Brick Lane. Or alternatively, it is less than a 10 minute walk from Liverpool Street tube or train station.


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Madeira by Olwen Cox

Madeira, Garden of the Atlantic: this is an island of incredible natural beauty. Everywhere you go roads and paths are lined with plants: bird of paradise, agapanthus, orchid, and hyacinths. The mountainous interior rises steeply from the coast, broken up by ravines and gorges with the sides covered in trees or terraces for agriculture.

There is a reason for this epithet, this verdancy; parts of the island get up to 2m of rain a year. So now you know the downside. For those scared of dissolving, the south side is drier especially through the summer months. However, what an island! I am no longer allowed to say awesome! So the scenery is amazing, the plants are amazing and the levadas (water channels) are truly amazing – human achievement at its best. Who needs to land on the moon? Some of the levadas cling to cliff faces, pass through tunnels (don’t forget torches), some twine through eucalyptus or tree heather or the Madeiran laurel forest, most have a fascination of ferns and mosses and agapanthus along the walls, sides and edges.

Our main reason for visiting Madeira was walking generally, but more specifically, walking the levadas. A system of watercourses channelling water for hydroelectricity and for agriculture, not an idea original to Madeira, but it is the accessibility of these levadas makes for some Awesome walking. Through some of the most amazing scenery while often in the shade and with the coolness of water flowing alongside. And they are flat(ish) but not for those who have a problem with heights or even a slight issue with heights. At some points paths may only be a foot to 18” wide and barriers, when present, are a single strand of flimsy fence wire. The other side of the path can be a drop of several hundred feet; this can be especially interesting when the path is rough and patchy or worn. However some levadas had a wide track adjacent, enabling two or more to walk abreast. The real disadvantage is that most of the levadas go somewhere, this means that without planning the walks can be “there and back” rather than circular, and those walks which are circular often involve a steep scramble up or down to levadas on different levels.

As a change from levadas walking, the interior of the island can be roughly divided into two sections, to the west is the Paul da Serra, the flattest section of the island at 1400m! This upland plain is reminiscent of Scotland and gives a wonderful sense of solitude and space. Eastwards are the jagged peaks of Pico Ruivo (the highest mountain on the island). The café at Pico do Arieiro (1800m and a good starting place for walking Pico Ruivo) served the best cup of tea of the holiday.

Although there are no beaches on the island, there are some rather fine lidos. Those at Porto Moniz at the north west of the island utilise some of the natural rock formations and are especially fine.

Other tourist attractions include the famed toboggan ride from Monte down to Funchal, the capital. There are also the botanical gardens in Funchal and the cable car ride from Monte to Funchal is recommended. Camacha village is famous for it willow work. Other souvenirs include the famous Madeira cake (nothing like the British sort!), Madeira wine, textiles and ceramics. The embroidery work is fantastic, but also available are woollens and throws. It is also possible to buy flowers (including the bird of paradise) to ship home in hand luggage.

We did a fly drive with Style holidays, with 3 pre-booked hotels (the Eira do Serrado in Nuns valley was wonderful, a hotel with vertigo!). Driving on the wrong side of the road was interesting enough without the hairpins and drops to the side. (It isn’t just the levadas, which cling to the side of hills!). We visited in December (the quiet season) and had one gorgeous day; one awful day and the rest were merely overcast with showers or sunny spells.

We used the Sunflower Landscapes book as a guide (www.sunflowerbooks.co.uk) and found it excellent (they also suggest driving tours). The “Danger of Vertigo” points were spot on. The directions, timings and parking were also good. We did walks 23 (totally awesome, but I did discover a fear of heights), one of the alternatives on walk 25, 29, 37 (brilliant and interesting), 36, and 39. Although these were mainly levada walks, all the levadas were different and provided a wonderful variety of scenery. We did meet a couple that said walk 12 should be dropped.

It was a great holiday and the final recommendation; Yes! I would definitely go back.

What have you seen on your travels? Drop a line to the Beetle! Beetle@globetrotters.co.uk


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