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Super Natural British Columbia, Canada's Mountain Province by Steve Noakes

British Columbia, Canada's westernmost province, is located on the Pacific Coast. It is Canada's third largest province comprising 9.5 percent of the country's total land area. The province is nearly four times the size of Great Britain and larger than any American state except Alaska.

Geography

British Columbia, Canada's westernmost province, is located on the Pacific Coast. It is Canada's third largest province comprising 9.5 percent of the country's total land area. The province is nearly four times the size of Great Britain and larger than any American state except Alaska. The population in 2001 was 4.1 million people with well over half living in the Vancouver/Victoria metropolitan area. From south to north, B.C. stretches 1,200 kilometres and as much as 1,050 kilometres east to west. It's glaciated fjord and island-dotted coastline extends some 7,000 kilometres.

British Columbia, renown for it's spectacular mountains landscapes, has four distinct regions: the Coast Mountain Granite Complex in the west, the Rocky, Percell, Selkirk, Monashee and other sedimentary and volcanic ranges from the eastern border, an extensive Interior Plateau and a lowland segment of the continent's Great Plains in the northeast.

The province is blessed with 1.8 million hectares of clean waterways in the form of rivers, lakes and streams. The combination of mountains and plentiful precipitation provides the province with abundant clean hydroelectricity for its homes and factories.

Climate

The highly varied terrain produces a full range of climate from regional temperate and coastal rainforests to alpine and desert climates. The southern interior has the province's driest and warmest climate with Canada's only defined desert with the area around Osoyoos receiving less the 10 inches of rain annually. Microclimates, rainshadows in the lee of some mountain ranges, permanent snowcap regions all result from the unique topography.

Environment

British Columbia has the richest variety of habitats in Canada including forests, grasslands, meadows, wetlands, rivers and inter-tidal and sub-tidal zones. They support the greatest diversity of plants and mammals found anywhere in Canada. In addition to their diversity, the populations of some species in B.C. have global significance. The province has 75 percent of the world's stone sheep, 60 percent of the mountain goats, 50 percent of the blue grouse, at least half of the trumpeter swans and 40 percent of the grizzly bears and the most bald eagles.

Services

The province hosts world class services ranging from the urban center of Vancouver and Victoria where over half the province's population live. Vancouverites enjoy one of the healthiest lifestyles in the world with outdoor activities ranging from year round sea kayaking, running, golf, tennis and even gardening. Skiing at the nearby world famous Whistler Resort or 4 local mountain resorts is a part of an active winter scene. The city has world class dining, shopping, nightlife and tours.

The interior hinterland of the province includes a full range of outstanding outdoor activity that the varied landscape can provide. Hunting, fishing, downhill and ski touring, hiking, riding..there is hardly and activity that can't be found in some terrain in the province. The medium sized centers such as Kelowna, Prince George and Prince Rupert carry many of the services of Vancouver including universities, hospitals and many other urban businesses.

Tourism

British Columbia's scenic attractions, combined with its clean, safe image, serve to make it an attractive destination for Canadian as well as international tourists. In addition, there are a wide variety of urban and cultural attractions, ranging from the performing and visual arts, to professional sports, amusement parks and shopping. Tourism is a major part of the provincial economy. During 2001, $9.2 billion was spent by 22 million overnight visitors.

British Columbia's national, provincial, regional and local parks provide a spectrum of natural beauty, breathtaking scenery and opportunities for outdoor enjoyment and recreation. The 807 protected areas (provincial parks, ecological reserves, recreation areas and other protected areas), covering 11.4 million hectares, are diverse in their features and facilities. There are 13,302 campsites, 487 day-use areas, 136 boat launch areas and 3,000 km of hiking trails within Provincial parks, that serve approximately 24 million park visitors each year. Nearly one-tenth of the province's parks are wilderness, largely untouched and accessed by back-packers and mountaineers. Inland and coastal waters are dotted with marine parks intended primarily for water-borne users.

The abundance and variety of wildlife in British Columbia reflect the great diversity of the province's environment. There are more species in total and more unique species of birds and mammals than in any other Canadian province. In British Columbia, the salt and fresh water

resources of the province provide both recreational and tourism opportunities for such activities as sport fishing, boating and sailing.

Imagine a holiday in a province where, no matter what your recreation passion, be it skiing in the summer, rock climbing, horseback riding, ocean fishing or reading a good book on the porch of a mountain cabin by a lake, British Columbia has it all…and more

Steve is a former corporate geologist with an extensive background in international remote terrain exploration. He is the President of GeoQwest, a company he started to provide informed travel through the spectacular wilderness landscapes of British Columbia. For more information about travel in British Colombia, contactSteve on: snoakes@okanagan.net or visit his website: www.geoqwestexcursions.com

London Markets: Berwick Street Market

This street was featured on the cover of Oasis' ‘What's the Story? Morning Glory' LP, and is also home to a tiny market in the heart of Soho.

Soho is that rather strange little area in central London occasionally described as London's infamous sex district. This is where you can find (if you are looking!) small rooms high above the street corners dimly lit by a red light bulb with a cardboard sign in the window saying “model” and there are the last of the seedy sex shops and tourist rip-off peep shows. At night time, you can see couples walking arm in arm, on their way to one of Soho's famous watering holes.

In the day time, the area is fascinating and home to many TV, PR and film production companies and has many extremely good restaurants and Berwick Street Market. Tucked away between Oxford Street and Old Compton Street, Berwick Street Market is renowned for its quality fruit and vegetables. Here you will find from Mon-Sat, 9am-5pm clusters of cheap and colourful fruit and veg stalls, as well as lots of off-beat record shops.

Dotted along the market are some stalls with great specialist foods, such as fish, cheese, sausages of all kinds, herbs and spices as well as a fabulous stall selling all manner of nuts and dried fruits for peckish (hungry) shoppers. There are some semi-interesting interesting shops that line the market where you can buy spangly belts, flared trousers and “recreational” pipes.

Address: Berwick St, Soho, W1

Getting there: exit Piccadilly Circus tube station, walk up Shaftesbury Avenue and then turn left into Rupert Street. At the top of Rupert Street, just past the small market area, cross Brewer Street and walk along Walkers Court, past the Raymond Revue Bar and you'll emerge into Berwick Street.

Bus Routes: 7, 8, 10, 25, 55, 73, 76, 98

Nearest Tube / Rail Station: Piccadilly Circus Open: Monday to Saturday 9am to 5pm

Mosquito Borne Diseases by Jason Gibbs, Pharmacist at Nomad Medical Centres

In the first article I talked about the best ways to avoid getting bitten by mosquitoes and consequently how to avoid catching some of the many diseases they carry. Here we will look at a few of the most common and well known of those diseases and the consequences of not using your DEET based insect repellents and mossie nets properly.

Malaria

This is the one mosquito borne disease that eclipses all others. With up to 300 million cases of malaria reported each year it kills more people worldwide than any other disease. It is actually caused by a parasite that is injected into an individual along with some of the mosquito saliva, and from this initial point of invasion within minutes heads to the liver and sets up home where it develops over a period 7 days – 1 year. When its ready to leave the liver it may have reproduced into 40,000 parasites all ready to cause fever, illness and possibly death within a few days. Every year about a thousand travellers from the UK will get malaria, unfortunately a handful of who will become seriously ill or die. The initial effects of the disease are very similar to a mild viral infection, headache and general malaise, but it will rapidly move onto severe fever and chills, profuse sweating, diarrhoea, stomach pain and cough. At this point if it is not treated correctly it starts to get nasty. Many people are reluctant to take medications that can prevent malaria because of stories they have read about in the media, or something that happened to a friend of a friend. Those that have had malaria and recovered (which most people do) have described it to me as the worst case of flu that they have ever had and definitely not something that they would want to experience again, these people invariably take their tablets wholeheartedly and come back for more!

Dengue Fever

Whereas malaria is carried by a night time biting mosquito, dengue fever is transmitted by a daytime biting cousin. It is present in Asia, Africa and Central/South America. It frequently causes outbreaks in various countries but a fairly recent outbreak in Brazil was massive and present all along the Eastern coast, it resulted in thousands of cases including professional footballers and plenty of tourists and travellers. In otherwise healthy westerners it is rarely fatal but can be very serious and even the milder cases can be a very unpleasant experience. It is known in many places as ‘breakbone fever' because of the severe pain felt by sufferers, after about 4 days or so you often get a very fine rash followed shortly by a full recovery. If you happen to be a child, elderly, immunocompromised or just unlucky, the disease can move on to what is known as ‘dengue haemorrhagic fever' (DHF for short), this will generally happen if you have had dengue before and been careless enough to get it again. There is no vaccine against dengue fever at the moment although we are hopeful that there will be a good vaccine on the market very shortly. It is therefore important for an individual to reduce the number of mosquito bites received during the day as well as during the evening.

Note: Insect repellents should always be applied after sunscreens, and it's worth bearing in mind that DEET based insect repellents may reduce the effectiveness of your sunscreen.

Yellow Fever

This virus is carried by another type of daytime biting mosquito and is present across all of Sub Saharan Africa and a majority of South America. It is not currently found in any parts of Asia though the conditions are right, and therefore all Asian countries are doing their best to prevent its introduction. Unlike malaria, it is found in even the largest urban populations and apart from bite avoidance the best way to prevent catching yellow fever is to have the vaccine before exposure. The vaccine takes 10 days to become fully effective, but following this short period virtually 100% cover is achieved. When you are vaccinated you are given a little certificate that becomes your ‘yellow fever passport'. It is the presentation of this document that allows travel across borders in Africa, South America or travel to an area such as Asia when travelling from an infected country. The disease manifests itself initially as fever and jaundice (hence yellow fever), but again can move on to become haemorrhagic yellow fever for which there is no specific treatment except fluids to treat the shock and internal blood loss. Yellow fever can be fatal in almost 50% of non-vaccinated individuals during an outbreak, so that vaccine is well worth getting.

Japanese B Encephalitis

Although very rare amongst travellers it a potentially very serious disease present throughout Asia, although it occurs only very, very rarely in Japan. It is caused by a virus spread via the bite of an infected night time biting mosquito that breeds mainly in paddy fields. The most commonly infected animals are pigs and fowl – wading birds etc so in order to be in an area of risk you need paddy fields just around the corner and pigs at your feet. Actually quite a common sight in Asia but it also tends to have seasonal outbreaks especially at the end of the rainy season, for example around May in the southern areas of Nepal. If you think that you may be in these risk areas at high risk times there is a vaccination course available of two or three shots but you really should start this course a minimum of 38-40 days prior to travel.

For more information, visit the Nomad Travel web site: Nomad Travel or call the Travel Health Line: 0906 8633414 (calls cost 60p per min) to discuss your travel health queries with a medical.

Views of Highgate by Matthew Doughty

One of the best ways to discover some of the many views of and from this well known corner of north London can be located by heading up Highgate Hill, at the Archway junction of the A1. Since living in the area, I've completed this route many times and found whether I travel by foot, bus, car or wearily push my cycle up the steep incline that l always seem to see something different on my journey. A bonus to this journey is if it can be made at the beginning of an August's summer day…

My first thought is that I am crossing a boundary – in that I am leaving behind the modern and the utilitarian accommodation of transient London and heading off into a very slowly changing but more permanently rooted era. An initial signpost of this change may well be the tall gothic spires and high roofs of the now renamed Archway Campus, which still seems rooted in its original purpose of providing medical care. Or take the caged Whittington Stone, complete with perched cat on the pavement just before the modern Whittington Hospital, as a signpost. The statue itself is but a small 1935 tribute to commemorate the mayoral achievements of one Richard Whittington, but it talks of a shared history for London.

At the junction with Dartmouth Road, it could be said that apart from the volume and nature of road traffic nowadays, much of the surroundings are as they were at the turn of the 20th century, when London swallowed up villages like Highgate during its' suburban expansion. St Joseph's Roman Catholic Church and Retreat proudly stands on its 1888 roots and marks a good point to catch your breath and look back across London down towards the Millennium Dome and the southern cityscape. Cathedral in posture, its copper domes tower above the nearby Old Crown and the now defunct Presbyterian Church on Cromwell Avenue. From neighbours who have a longer association with the area I have heard stories of horses, their carriages and their drivers heading down the hill in unconventional styles, as their wheels and legs attempt to work their way across this busy crossing during snow and ice.

Along from St Joseph's is another landmark from that different era, Lauderdale House, which was renovated in 1893 to become a council operated venue. Nowadays it is a popular location for well attended weddings, craft fairs and views out across Waterlow Park – whilst the coffee could be better its' less busy nature is a welcome contrast. Facing Lauderdale is the imposing Northgate House with is walls struggling to support a large number of windows and the Ghana High Commission with its roof top cupola, arching lines and gated entrance.

The Channing Schools and the art deco Cholmeley Lodge welcome visitors into Highgate village proper and the high street. Local shops and businesses seem to stand their own corner against the undeservedly well located chain restaurants and ubiquitous estate agents !

Highgate becomes one of those weekend destinations that creaks at the seams during the Kenwood season or as people enjoy a summer day. One of my favourite aspects is that the 210 allows me to alight from the bus and almost walk directly through the front door of The Prince of Wales and to a very good pint, whatever the choice ! Other local recommendations include the frustratingly organised Highgate Bookshop, the Village Bistro and the precariously perched stall of Village Flowers.

To extend the search for views turn left into Hampstead Lane and proceed past the always green playing field of Highgate School and its' numerous red brick buildings. Once passed the faded blue sign of the mysterious Highgate Golf Club, you find yourself walking along under broad leaf trees to the entrances of The Iveagh Bequest at Kenwood – however rather than enter through the popular stables entrance, head towards the main gate. I found the simple pleasure of walking down the sweeping drive, towards the front of Kenwood House immensely appealing. This neo-classical house, remodelled during the 1760s to include an archetypal, stately frontage, was home to the 1st Earl of Mansfield…however it his heir, the 2nd Earl, that is to be thanked for commissioning Humphrey Repton's widely enjoyed landscaped garden. This pleasant perimeter of Hampstead Heath makes for a perfect spot from which to explore the 37 odd ponds, Parliament Hill and many superb vistas of the cities of London and Westminster. Depending on the day's clarity, attempt to locate Canary Wharf, the ever majestic St Paul's, the London Eye and the Telecomm Tower at the very least ! And remember that in spite of busy periods, the main Kenwood House makes itself available for excellent afternoon teas…

To prolong your pleasure, avoid the exclusive, brash wealth of the gated Compton, Courtenay and Bishops' avenues and follow Hampstead Lane further round the heath towards the still splendid Spaniards Inn and beyond towards Hampstead itself. For those that wish to return down back down the hill, the 210 can be caught from almost outside the main house and a pleasant journey can be drawn to a close in an unhurried manner !

Matthew is happy to be contacted by email chair@globetrotters.co.uk or at the monthly London meetings.

The Gambia by Rosemary Hamblin

Fate has a strange knack of intervening in your live when you least expect it. 1999 had been the worst year of my life ending with the death of my father after a long drawn out illness. I just wanted to get away from everything. I didn’t care where it was so long as it was hot and I could sit on the beach, relax and recover. So I found myself in The Gambia for the first time in late December 1999. I loved The Gambia immediately. Although not scenic, I was captivated by the warmth and friendliness of the people. I had travelled extensively in Africa before but there was something indefinable about this place that drew me like a magnet. All I wanted to do was relax so I would rise early and lay on the beach for a couple of hours to set me up for the day. I enjoyed being on the beach early, most tourists were still in bed and the peace and the early morning sun revitalised me. I did not want to be sociable so I read or feigned sleep. However, I could not help but be fascinated by one lady who also at on the beach every morning. She was always surrounded by Gambians. They encircled her, sat on the bottom of her sunbed, chatting away. They called her Mama Africa. As the days passed my self-imposed exile began to waver and my curiosity surfaced. Who was she? Why were The Gambians always flocking around her? Why did they call her Mama Africa? In the end I could stand it no longer and I approached her and asked her my questions. That long conversation was to alter the course of my life. Mama Africa and her dynamic daughter Debbie worked tirelessly to collect medical equipment which they shipped to The Gambia in a container every year. They were also involved in collecting items for the schools and the emergency services. She gave me her address and I promised to try and help. Over the next ten months I collected items towards their next shipment. The more I came to know them both, the greater the respect and admiration I had for both of them. They worked tirelessly for The Gambia. The project was by this time expanding so rapidly that Debbie took the decision to amalgamate the medical, educational and emergency services under one umbrella to become an official charity. Thus GO GAMBIA was born. I was asked to become a Trustee and took on the responsibility of Sponsorship Program Administrator. We now run an educational sponsorship programme for 200 children as well as providing desperately needed equipment for the schools, hospitals and the emergency services. GO GAMBIA continues to expand and has become one of the great passions in my life. I could go on forever about it but it would be easier to log on to our website where our work is explained in detail. Go Gambia website Fate led me to that beach in The Gambia in 1999. I often look back and think how strange it was that a conversation on Banjul beach turned my life upside down when I least expected it. Any Globetrotters members interested in sponsoring a child’s education or who can assist the project in any way can contact us through the GO GAMBIA website. Alternatively, you may contact Rosemary by e-mail on: rahamblin@hotmail.coms

A Pharmacist Writes…..Insect Bites by Jason Gibbs, Pharmacist at Nomad Medical Centres

There are many diseases spread by the bite of infected insects. This article focuses on methods of bite avoidance and therefore ways to reduce not only the inconvenience of insect bites but also ways to reduce the chances of contracting any one of the potentially life threatening diseases including malaria that can be contracted this way

Different types of mosquito will bite at different times, for example the mosquito that carries malaria predominantly bites between dusk and dawn whereas the one that carries dengue fever (predominantly present in Asia but also in the Americas an Africa) will bite during the day, so good bite avoidance techniques should be employed whenever biting insects are present.

There are several basic ways to reduce insect bites and these will be considered in turn. They are to:

Ø Reduce general exposure to insects

Ø Apply repellent to the skin

Ø Use insecticides which are impregnated into materials such as clothing or mosquito nets

Ø Remove insects from the environment using contact insecticides, e.g., knock-down sprays or burners/mats

Reducing Exposure

This means reducing the amount of exposed skin that is available for the mosquito to bite, therefore long sleeved shirts, trousers and socks should all be worn. It’s also been found that the mosquitoes find it more difficult to bite through loose as opposed to tight clothing.

Another way to prevent mosquitoes getting to your skin is to ensure that you always sleep in a mosquito net, these should either have a very fine weave to prevent any insect getting through no matter how small it is, or a larger weave that allows air to circulate better but these should be impregnated with an insecticide (see later)

Application of Repellents

There are many different types of repellent on the market but one of the best is still DEET, when applied in concentrations of at least 20% (many contain 40-50%) it is both long lasting and effective. It is safe when applied to the skin but can damage plastics so its always advisable to wipe your hands after application or you may find that when you go to put your sunglasses back on you leave fingerprints on the lenses. It will also sting the eyes and lips and therefore should never be sprayed directly on the face but can be applied lightly using the hands. Citronella oil and especially its derivatives are also very effective but citronella oil on its own doesn’t last very long at all and would need to be reapplied every hour or so.

Whichever repellent you use it is important to reapply regularly, its difficult to say exactly how often but no repellent will last more than about 4 hours or so (unless it is specially formulated into a slow-release application) and factors such as humidity, wind and the amount you sweat will all reduce effective duration but every couple of hours should suffice. Its also important to cover all exposed skin, not forgetting the ears or the back of the neck since mossies will always manage to find that one little patch of forgotten skin and have a feast!

High strength DEET can also be applied to wrist and ankle bands to be worn at high risk times and if these are stored in a little airtight bag they will remain active for days before another application is required.

Use of Insecticides

The type of insecticide now most commonly used is called permethrin, It’s available for application directly to clothing or in a much stronger solution that can be used to soak mosquito nets and give protection for up to 3-6 months. All nets should be treated where possible because if even a single mosquito gets into your net with you it is trapped for the night, with only you to feed on. It can land on a non treated net for a rest and then return to you for a further meal. When sprayed onto clothing it will effectively kill any insect that lands on the treated clothing and thus prevent the mosquito from biting you for up to two weeks. This method of bite avoidance is advisable for those individuals who find themselves particularly susceptible to insect bites or are in areas of particularly high risk of disease transmission. When using these products it is advisable to avoid contact with the skin whilst still wet, but once dry it is totally safe for humans and it is impossible to tell whether clothing has been treated or not. It doesn’t even smell unlike DEET that used to be used to treat clothing and nets

Removal of Insects from the Environment

These are generally ways to kill insects present in rooms etc. Knockdown sprays are very effective and readily available and the best way to use them is often to spray the room before you go out in the evening and let the insecticide do its work whilst you are enjoying yourself. Alternatively if you have an uninterrupted electricity supply, plug in products that release permethrin-type insecticide into the room throughout the night are very effective. They rely on a small heating element that will either vaporise fluid or heat little mats that in turn release the active ingredient into the room, again harmless to humans and virtually odourless. You can also purchase coils that burn releasing the insecticide, these can produce small amounts of smoke and fumes and should therefore not really be used in enclosed environments, they are however very useful when eating outside. A small piece of a coil (one coil lasts about 10 hours) burnt under the table will keep the mossies away from your ankles – one of the most popular areas for biting insects. Air conditioning will also reduce the number of bites you get during the night if you have none of the other options since lower temperatures do not encourage the mosquitoes to feed and the constant flow of air makes it more difficult for them to find you.

Formore information, visit the Nomad Travel website:Nomad Travel or call the Travel Health Line: 0906 8633414 (calls cost 60p per min) to discuss your travel health queries with a medical.

Curacao: the perfect diving spot for family men…and family women, Part 2

Philippe continues his tale of diving and exploring Curacao with his family.

Harry and his wife, Ann-Marie, have done all in their power to help us achieving the best diving around the island. They have lent us all equipment necessary including tanks to do some shore diving around the island and God knows that, around Curacao, there are several luscious beaches (e.g., “Klein Knipbaai”, “Playa Porto Marie” or “Playa Jeremi”) with astounding coral reef diving, down to quite extreme depths (that is, if you want) and very good facilities…for the after-dive relaxation.

The club boats have also taken us to some very good diving places not far from the hotel. One of these places was called the “Mushroom Forest” and, when diving there, we had the feeling of wandering in the middle of a forest of giant mushrooms, except that they were coral formations under which we could often glimpse lobsters and moray eels.

Easy Divers’ philosophy is based on the following principle: once you have established your credentials, you are free to dive the way you want, under your sole responsibility. This philosophy, in addition to the boat taking you to excellent spots, to the skipper giving you a good pre-dive briefing and to the boat picking you up at the end of your dive wherever you are (i.e. you do not have to navigate back to the boat), was what European divers like us needed to do exciting dives.

The club was also offering all expected facilities and more, like nitrox, a locker to store away your equipment to dry, a bar on the beach nearby, showers for after the dive, all books necessary to identify what we had seen (a special mention about Paul Humann’s and Ned Deloach’s “The Reef Set” books which is probably one of the best books ever made to precisely identify what you are going to see or what you have seen: definitely a must have!) and refreshing fruit salads to pick from while discussing your dives with your buddies, lying on deck chairs.

Furthermore, the diving club was conveniently located on the beach of a resort (the Sunset Waters Beach Resort) which was providing very good accommodation, food and all other amenities to make the rest of the trip enjoyable, including a casino, a swimming pool and a mini-golf. There were even some activities organised for the kids like movies, sea kayak trips or water-polo tournaments so they definitely have also been able to make the best out of their stay there.

Apart from Park Cristoffel which is supposed to offer some very good hiking, Curacao also offered a few interesting things to see on the dry over-the-water side of the island:

· Willemstad (the capital) made for an interesting tour with its Dutch inspired houses, its floating rotating bridge, its floating market (as nothing grows on Curacao, except Aloe Vera which has been cultivated there for a very long time, all fruits and vegetables are imported from the nearby Venezuela);

· A South-African Boer has opened an ostrich farm, which gave us the opportunity to discover the life of ostriches and even to taste them in the form of juicy steaks and sausages;

· The Kura Hollanda Museum about the Black Culture and Holocaust was also a highly interesting moment in the trip as it enabled us to understand more about the history of Black people in the Caribbean islands and in the USA, with, among other things, an outstanding highlight on the slave trade;

· Last, Curacao Seaquarium displayed some very interesting tanks and creatures, taking advantage of the sea close vicinity to display, among other things, nurse and lemon sharks, tarpons, groupers and rays in almost natural environment with a possibility for divers to interact.

All in all, a very pleasant trip to “one of the best kept secrets of the Caribbean islands” which I would definitely recommend to divers travelling with their families.

If you would like to contact Philippe about diving or info on Curacao, his e-mail is: philippe.sigal@bnpparibas.com

Moscow is not a city but a whole world by Katia in Moscow

When I was a little girl and the trees seemed too big for me I was first taken to Red Square by my farther. It is a wonderful feeling to realize how beautiful and different could be the Country you live in. Being about five years old I was lucky to have captured this sensation and later on it only became deeper.

I remember looking at the glowing Kremlin stars and feeling that I was in the center of the whole world, of the universe. I am a student of Moscow University now and I still have this feeling. When twilight comes the Kremlin stars are the first to be seen, and only then Mars, Venus and the North Star.

I have always adored Red Square (Red in Old Russian meant beautiful). Being the symbol of the Country, a famous sight it is at the same time the place that helps you to remember where are your roots and that you belong here. It is amazing how one place could embody so many ancient monuments and edifices from different epochs: from the 16th up to the 20th centuries.

Faces of Moscow are many and various and your vision of the city depends on the way you look at it.

To the left of Red Square leads off Varvarka Street. If you happen round in it, the close company of the golden domes of ancient Churches, the Old English Court, the Chambers of Romanov boyars of handsome originality will let you feel a merchant of the epoch of Ivan the Terrible, dressed in long red caftan and wearing boots of coloured leather with silver lining at the heels.

And if you shall go a way down you are sure to be enshrouded into a special patriarchal atmosphere, which the stones of this district – Zamoskvorechye (Beyond the River district) – still breathe. In the 16th century this territory was used to grow fruit and vegetables for the Tsar’s table and for a long time it was settled only by poor peasants and craftsmen. This area commands a beautiful view of the Kremlin. The Kremlin… here I recall one story.

Some time ago I worked with Italian tourists and we were exploring the center of the city. After we had seen the Kremlin, which took about a couple of hours, one of them asked me: “Look, we’ve been here nearly all day long, we’ve seen so many churches and gardens and I am dying to see one more famous place. Could you tell me where is on Earth that very Kremlin, please? Where is that building? ”. I could not help laughing. He was asking me to show exactly what he has just seen. I told him so. Kremlin is not just one building, but a huge complex of fortification walls, towers, churches and gardens.

The highest point of the city – Vorobievy Hills (Sparrow Hills) is the sight for the main building of Moscow State University founded in the times of Tsarina Elizaveta. The observation platform situated on the same place commands a splendid view of entire Moscow. On a good day the city is laid out before you like an opened book: the Olympic dome, the home to the Olympic Games 1980s is the first thing that strikes the eye. The seven famous skyscrapers seen from afar give an original look to the city silhouette and emphasise its radial-circular layout.

Your ideas of turning into an aristocrat for a while are likely to take shape in Prechistenka Street. It preserves all of the stages in the city’s history. There are white stone chambers, noblemen’s mansions and luxurious houses for rent created with outstanding taste. So never mind you might notice this dignity look on the faces of your companions – they must have come under the street’s spell.

On a fine summer day through the opened windows there might even seep out the sounds of the grand piano and young ladies’ great babble of conversation about preparing for the ball.

Every street has its own story to tell you. You just have to listen to it and keep your mind open on things. Each of us can find something of interest here.

From my mind a peculiar feature of Moscow is that this city maintaining eminent architectural ensembles of the bygone days manages to mix it with pure European signs of human achievements – prestigious hotels and fashionable restaurants, luxurious clubs and extravagant boutiques, which only adds a special flavour to it.

The title of this text holds certainly true of Moscow. The city is so huge that you may live in it your whole life and still not know it, still learn something new about it every day. But this is the stuff of life – to learn and let yourself be dazzled by the new, isn’t it?

Katia says: “I am studying foreign languages at Moscow University and I'm enjoying it very much as my profession is connected with people – that's why I've been an interpreter, tourist guide. And I love communicating with people from different countries, helping them to learn more about Russia, its history and culture”.

For more information, or to contact Katia, please e-mail her on: engmaria@mtu-net.ru

Visiting Cape Town for the first time by Geoff

Most visitors to Cape Town arrive by air and land at Cape Town's International Airport. The International terminal has recently been upgraded and facilities are good. The airport is about a twenty minute drive from the centre of Cape Town along the N2 freeway. For those brave people who like to drive themselves it is easy to hire a car as most car hire firms are represented at the airport.

Anybody who is used to driving on the right is in for a surprise. We don't! The Brits taught us to drive on the left. Please remember this as you could find yourself in trouble on the roads. BEWARE of the taxis. They drive like maniacs, stop anywhere and don't stop at traffic lights. The roads in and around town are good and well sign posted. If you know where you are going you should not get lost. That's easily said, I still get lost sometimes. You know us men, we don't like asking for directions.

Cape Town has three major access roads to get you in and out of town. The N1 which takes you to the north and the suburbs of Parow, Bellville and onto Paarl and the winelands if you keep on going. The N2, takes you along De Waal drive down Settlers way to the airport and Somerset West and if you keep going to Mosselbay via Sir Lowry's Pass. To avoid peak traffic do not drive along these roads from about 4.30 onwards in the afternoons. The third is the main road which takes you south through all the suburbs of Cape Town to Simonstown. Plenty of traffic lights, stop start driving and pedestrians. For shoppers there are some large shopping centres to visit.

Century City (Canal Walk) is the biggest and is found just off the N1 highway about 5 kilometres out of town. Here there are hundreds of shops to browse through. Do yourself a favour and wear your walking shoes when visiting Canal Walk. You will walk for miles and are sure to get sore feet. However, there are many restaurants and coffee shops to visit when you get tired, trust me you WILL! It is enormous with two levels and two shopping malls on each level. A shop-a-holics dream come true! While you are there take a boat ride on the canal and visit the bird hide on the island.

Cape Town itself has plenty to see and do. If you want to avoid driving, take a bus to the waterfront and visit the shops restaurants and pubs there. Many of the larger chain stores you find at Canal walk (Century City) are also represented at the Waterfront. The V & A Waterfront as it is named is part of Table Bay Harbour and is still used as a working harbour. Like boats? Take a cruise. Fancy a trip to Robben Island? They also leave from the harbour.

Cape Town has many places of interest within walking distance of the city centre.

I will list a few below.

· Museum and Planetarium found in the Gardens.

· The Gardens and the Art Gallery.

· Oceanarium in the Waterfront.

· The Castle of the Cape of Good Hope found close to the railway

station.

· Green Market Square with its permanent flea market.

· St Georges Cathedral.

Cape Town is relatively safe with most areas being monitored by surveillance cameras. There are however, those who will try their luck, so please keep all jewellery and valuables hidden under your clothing. It is not safe to walk around by yourself at night. It's Ok at the Waterfront, but not anywhere else. If you are driving keep your doors locked at all times and do not leave valuables where they can be seen, even when you are in the car.

The South African currency is Rand and cents. A British pound is the equivalent of about R16.00 and a US dollar about R10.50. If you are visiting Cape Town in summer, bring lots of beachwear and a hat. The sun is very dangerous. On the beaches use plenty of sunblock to prevent bad sunburn. Be careful of the rip tides on some of the beaches if you decide to have a swim.

Enjoy your trip. See you soon!

Geoff Fairman is the editor and publisher of Banker's Oldboy's Ezine, a free publication posted via email to your home computer weekly. To read more articles on Cape Town visit:

Brerrabbit-subscribe@topica.com

What Counts as Having Visited a Country?

Darrell from Washington, DC, wrote in: “someone who visited both Prague and Bratislava before Czechoslovakia split should get credit for two countries. Likewise, chalk up two countries if someone visited East and West Germany separately before 1990”.

Del from Texas says: “Easy, it counts if the part that split was visited”.

Henry from Hawaii says: No, one could count two countries if both Prague and Bratislava were visited before the split. It is the territory that counts since it is pretty much the same regardless of who owns it at any given time. A purist would argue that it would require visitation when the current state was in operation and one could agree with that view in order to keep the counting as standard as possible.

Nick from London wrote in to say: I liked the What Counts as having visited a Country? section in the newsletter this month. Years ago I visited a couple of bits of Yugoslavia, and I would note that as several countries now.

Our webmaster Paul sent in a link of the official ISO country list, for worldly travellers to tick ‘em off! Take a look at http://www.iso.ch/iso/en/prods-services/iso3166ma/02iso-3166-code-lists/index.html

This month’s question, from Nick from London is: I would be interested if people think it counts if you have visited a country for a stopover.