For information on Ontario meetings, please contact: Svatka Hermanek:
shermanek@schulich.yorku.ca or Bruce Weber: tel. 416-203-0911 or Paul Webb: tel. 416-694-8259.
Meetings are held on the third Friday of January, March, May, September and November. Usually at the Woodsworth Co-op, Penthouse, 133, Wilton Street in downtown Toronto at 8.00 p.m.
Saturday August 10th, we had the fabulously informative Eric Dondero as speaker. His topic was: “How to Learn Any Language Fast”. Eric is a Multilingual Interpreter and Certified Language Instructor from Houston. He speaks over 20 languages and can communicate in another 20 more. His new book is the “Worldwide Multilingual Phrase Book; Survival Skills for Over 40 Languages”
This month (September 14) we will have two guest speakers. Our own traveling girl, Emily Naberhaus, will show us how to pack for long trips with just a backpack. Sue Howell, a new focused market Travel Agent, will discuss her decision to specialize.
Future meetings: October 12th and November 9th
A reminder that Texas meetings will start one hour earlier, at 2pm and not 3pm.
Meetings are held at 2pm at the New Braunfels Public Library, 700 E. Common Street in New Braunfels, Texas. The meeting ends at 5 p.m. If you would like to continue travel talk on a more informal basis, we plan to adjourn to the Hoity-Toit, a local New Braunfels establishment. If anybody would like to enquire about meetings or help Christina, please contact her on: texas@globetrotters.co.uk
Most Londoners see Covent Garden as a tourist trap, but they still go there, to eat and drink or pause to watch the latest jugglers once in a while. (There are actually some pretty good bars and restaurants in the area – head for Earlham St, Shorts Gardens, or better still, cross over Shaftsbury Avenue and head for Soho – no shortage of good eateries there!) For the tourists, there are the tarot readers and fortune tellers, the henna tattoo artists and the London teddy bears, but actually, a Londoner might buy some unusual silver earrings or something else you can't find elsewhere in the West End. If you are going to eat in Covent Garden, avoid the places close to the piazza. The only exception is Chez Gerrard (called rather grandly, Chez Gerrard at the Opera Terrace!) a decent enough steak-frites kind of place on the corner, overlooking the piazza with an almost impossible to find entrance.
Covent Garden market used to be a vegetable market but moved from Covent Garden to Nine Elms in Battersea in 1974. The old market halls have been preserved and are now home to stalls selling quintessentially English goods. It is open Monday – Sunday from 10am to 7pm.
The old Apple Market in the North Hall showcases antiques on Mondays and arts and crafts from Tuesday to Sunday, selling everything from jewellery and clothing to silverware and pottery. South of the piazza is the Jubilee Market, which sells downmarket clothes, shoes and household goods. The piazza itself is a great place to catch some of London's best street performers and buskers, although keep an eye on your wallets and bags.
For more info, visit: www.coventgardenmarket.co.uk
The recovery from Rock Vivé's excesses was complete and it was time to see something of Andalucia's history and culture. Seville and Cordoba were considered but as our circumstances were only good for the day, the less distant option of Al Hambra was chosen – not to demean the site in anyway, as we were greatly struck by Domingos's whole hearted endorsement of our plans.
To avoid driving during the near 30 degrees C heat and to give ourselves a chance to enjoy our explorations, Alan and I hurriedly set off in our storm dirtied green Micra across the countryside, in search of the motorway into Granada. Much of this countryside, rural Spain at its' finest according to my imagination, was the perfect antidote to a hectic UK working life – whitewashed villages, rustic red earth, vegetable growing small holdings, rows of Olive trees climbing away from the roads and a sense of slowness! Ventas de Zafarraya, Alhama de Granada and Buenavista passed by all too quickly, as we were drawn into Granada's contrasting metropolitan modernity. It took all our patience to be able to follow the purple Al Hambra signs though the city and not get driven crazy by local driving habits – with hindsight it seems that my navigating took us through the heart of the city when we should have followed the well laid out ring road! There again I've often preferred journeys to destinations…
Eventually we, like many others, wove our way up towards the entrance and way from the noise of modern life. Perched on the cooler foothills of the Sierra de la Nevada, Al Hambra watches westerly across Granada and is perfectly located for generations of Moors and Spaniards to take a strategic view of this landscape. Like many well managed destinations, we visitors are only allowed in as controlled flow, rather than the mass free for alls that can ruin any experience. This gives the visitor time to enjoy the site and gave us time to enjoy one of Spain's greatest attributes – a lazy lunch outdoors! As when approaching Rome's antiquities, we were caught by fortune tellers on the way in to the site – in less than clear Spanish I think they promised me love, children, a happy career and a long life…all for a sprig of some unnamed bush and 5 Euros! Escaping their clutches was probably harder than storming Al Hambra itself!
Once inside, countless footsteps led us along the well maintained paths towards the many palaces of Al Hambra. Along the way I was struck by how the grounds are still so imaginatively maintained and how much water is used not only to irrigate but enhance the setting of the buildings themselves. No doubt the use of water in such a way during the Nasrid Dynasty (1238 – 1492) helped illustrate the power and wealth of the ruling Sultans. In spite of expressing such a political dominance, the buildings themselves bloom in highlighting what care and thought was taken in their construction and subsequent life…the current authorities describe the art of such efforts but I prefer to enjoy their splendid practical existence.
Though comparatively young, the palace of the Charles V stands out as a magnificent intrusion into the centre of the five, maybe seven, Moorish palaces. Its' square structure boldly enforces Christianity's eventual dominance across Spain and yet as a building masks an exquisite inner auditorium, beautifully marshalled with marbled pillars supporting an extravagant walk way and wide sweeping staircases. The acoustics and setting make it the perfect venue for summer concerts. Frustratingly I could not capture this entire image in one frame – my small camera just could not provide the necessary dimensions, so memory will have to serve me for the time being!
In contrast the Moorish palaces depict much more about the general life of the community that existed within. Although the fortifications of the Alcazaba stand majestically tall in guarding the approach across the Rio Darro, it is the inner buildings that take your breath away. Courtyard after courtyard rolls at you, enhancing the sense of peace that is ever present as we wandered slowly through – if the tourist noise is low enough, it seems as though you can feel past lives. At the centre of each courtyard sits some water feature – be it an ornate fountain surrounded by trees or multi coloured fish swimming long pools. Beautifully coloured and formed ceilings funnel light into the smallest recesses and small benches, built into the walls, allow views out across the grounds. Even the traditional Arabic style wooden doors reinforce a different world, a different Spain.
Now I could not be considered a gardener in any sense of the word but even I appreciated the gardens of the Generalife. These gardens sit across from Al Hambra and as you are slowly led up winding paths towards a small peak, a wonderful contrast exists between the red brick of the buildings and the vibrant and varied colours of the plant life within. Hedges mimic the walled fortifications and climbing roses arch across fountains. Vines climb up and along pergolas to provide shelter, which seemed to please our snoring neighbour as we sat to take in some of the scenery. Much of the ongoing restoration continues within the buildings at the centre of the gardens and yet there is still much to marvel at, particularly the amazing use of water yet again. Rows of fountains jet water down into cascading pools and channels seem to carry streams where gravity shouldn't take it.
Alan and I never discovered the source of so much water during our visit, but the masterful landscaping of Al Hambra certainly helped to recharge our weekend weary bodies and conclude a marvellous afternoon.
Matthew can be contacted on: chair@globetrotters.co.uk
The Frommers' August e-newsletter discussed Spirit Airline's giving away of all seats on September 11.
Now, National Airlines is following suit; the seats aren't free, but they're only a single buck, and all the money collected will be donated to a suitable charity. Vegas-based National is also offering first-class seats for their usual low upgrade fees–plus the extra dollar–meaning you can fly first-class from New York City to Vegas for only $201. You can take advantage of this deal if you can depart out of NYC, Newark, Philadelphia, Washington, D.C., Miami, West Palm Beach, Chicago, Dallas/Fort Worth, Seattle, San Francisco, Los Angeles, Reno or Las Vegas. When Spirit made their announcement, all 13,000 seats were taken in under 24 hours. For more on-line info, see www.nationalairlines.com/itn/index.asp?page=webspecials.asp.
You can book online at www.nationalairlines.com,or at any of the big three booking sites; www.travelocity.com, www.orbitz.com, or www.expedia.com.
Source: newsletters@frommers.com
Trade Aid a charitable trust whose aim is to create sustainable employment in Mikindani, Tanzania are organising a group trip to The Old Boma at Mikindani, at the end of October. With only seven rooms, The Boma has a Country House Hotel feel, but it does mean the number of places are strictly limited.
Special airfares have been negotiated with British Airways and Air Tanzania. As a Friend of Mikindani, and reader of this e-newsletter, you will enjoy special rates at the Boma, a beautiful 19th century German fort, faithfully and lovingly restored. The group will finish with 3 nights in Zanzibar.
The price for a total of 14 nights comprising 11 nights at the Old Boma and 3 nights in Zanzibar will be from £995, on a B&B basis (apart from the excellent food at The Boma, there are other places to eat close by, although half board is available for a small supplement) and is dependent on the standard of hotel selected in Zanzibar. The price includes free excursions every other day such as snorkelling and swimming at the scenic bay at Msimbati and a trip to the Rovuma river where you can watch hippos and crocs. The flight departs on Saturday 26th Oct from Heathrow on a non-stop BA flight to Dar es Salaam arriving at 0640 with a connecting 0800 flight to Mtwara. A Trade Aid representative will accompany the flight and the Zanzibar portion will have a guide. Return to Heathrow is on Sunday 10th Nov at 1715 on a non-stop flight from Dar es Salaam.
If you are interested, please contact: tradeaid@netcomuk.co.uk or visit: www.mikindani.com
The Beetle says that this is an excellent deal, and knows the Boma: it really is quite beautiful and the rooms are fabulous, some with hard carved mahogany beds, and white muslin abounds. There's a pool, stunning views of the bay, great cocktails as you watch sundown, good service and attentiveness – what more could you ask for!
As soon as we get information on the annual barbecue we will let you know what happened!
For information on Ontario meetings, please contact: Svatka Hermanek: shermanek@schulich.yorku.ca or Bruce Weber: tel. 416-203-0911 or Paul Webb: tel. 416-694-8259
Meetings are held on the third Friday of January, March, May, September and November. Usually at the Woodsworth Co-op, Penthouse, 133, Wilton Street in downtown Toronto at 8.00 p.m.
Texas meetings are usually held at the New Braunfels library, which was recently flooded. Almost all the TV news coverage in New Braunfels took place at the bridge on Common St and the library could be seen, high and dry at the top of the hill. July 13th's meeting saw Mary Ann Hollmig, local coordinator for Elderhostel, as our guest speaker.
The July meeting marked our one-year anniversary here in Texas! (Yippee!) Our group has grown from 6 folks to almost 100!! We are putting together a questionnaire for our members in order to develop a travel information directory that will enhance networking among us “Texas Globies”.
Next meeting: August 10th, A reminder that Texas meetings will start one hour earlier, at 2pm and not 3pm.
Meetings are held at 2pm at the New Braunfels Public Library, 700 E. Common Street in New Braunfels, Texas. The meeting ends at 5 p.m. If you would like to continue travel talk on a more informal basis, we plan to adjourn to the Hoity-Toit, a local New Braunfels establishment. If anybody would like to enquire about meetings or help Christina, please contact her on: texas@globetrotters.co.uk
Since the arrival of the West Indian population in London, in the 1950s and 1960s, Brixton Market has been the place for Afro-Caribbean foodstuffs especially along Electric Avenue, while the African and Asian fabrics are also worth a look. Check out the biggest Ghana Yams in London – they're the size of a small child. They say it's Europe's biggest Caribbean foods market and they could be right.
Brixton Market is mainly for ethnic foods, fruits and vegetables. You can find odd merchandise, from wigs, rare records, homeopathic root cures, to plantains and hair extensions. Fish is fresh and well priced, as are flowers and fruits. You can find the latest R&B CDs for a tenner each and fill up your toiletries cabinet for £1 per item.
The market covers several areas of Brixton: Reliance Avenue – a short and narrow covered market running between Brixton Rd and Electric Avenue. Stalls include children's clothes, camera/watch shop and a vacuum cleaner spare parts store! Brixton Station Rd – big outdoor market mainly selling second hand clothes and bric-a-brac with some electric goods of uncertain origin. Electric Avenue – the original market that was once protected by extended awnings running the length of the street. Mainly fruit and veg and clothes stores. Granville Arcade – large covered market with an eclectic mix of shops including a tattoo studio, cafes, Caribbean bakery, several fishmongers and all kinds of unsavoury trays of animal produce. Not for sensitive veggies! Station Arcade – small selection of stores leading up the druggies favourite haunt, Brixton railway station. Market Row – Another big covered market with a large selection of stores including the superb Eco Pizzas and Cafe Pushkar. Tunstall Rd – New art market opposite Brixton tube.
Just a word of warning, Brixton is a great and lively place during the day, but late at night, it can be a little scary. Be careful with your possessions at all times whilst in any market.
Open Monday to Saturday 9am to 6pm, except Wednesday when it's open 9am to 3pm.
Next month: Covent Garden market
Greetings from Antigua, again!
When last I wrote I was in San Cristóbal las Casas and just started on my trip through Mexico, and here I am ready to launch in to the second section of this trip as we leave for Honduras tomorrow, and the last of the Mayan ruins in our itinerary. Strangely I am not all 'ruined' out yet and am quite looking forward to seeing the temples and stones of Copan on Monday.
The last three weeks have been excellent fun. My lads have been good value and we are still getting on well so that has helped to make the time positive. And the Ruta Maya took us through some of the loveliest parts of southern Mexico. We detoured down to the Guatemalan border, in Chiapas, to explore a new road and visit the lesser known sites of Yaxilan and Bomampac and they remain two of my favourites due to the smaller size and the exquisite carvings and paint work there. Camping for about half the time, we cooked some excellent meals and stayed in lovely places. Palenque was made more accessible by our excellent guide, Ernesto, and Uxmal was made worthwhile due to the fact that we missed most of the tourist hordes by being there as the site opened. Chichén Itzá wa huge and very touristy but very interesting. We then retired to the beaches of the Caribbean, south of Cancun, for a couple of days. Swimming in the turquoise waters there was lovely. Throughout this time the food remained good and people friendly. Our last ruins in Mexico were those at Tulum, a small site built on the edge of the Caribbean and for the worship of the dawn. I also went for a cavern snorkel nearby – fun and blessedly cool after the heat and humidity of the area.
We crossed into Belize with the minimum of fuss and headed straight to Caye Caulker for two days of sun, sea and relaxation. Although I managed to get sunburnt and not to see a manatee (dugong family of sea-cow), we had a fun time snorkelling, watching dolphins and wandering around the small town. Back to the mainland and straight out of Belize city. A short stop at the small but lovely zoo, getting drenched in a tropical downpour, and then to San Ignacio for two nights. During that time I did another cavern tour – beautiful colours and formations – in a canoe, and we all worried about a sudden closing of the Guatemalan/Belize border due to a demand for back pay by the ex-paramilitary forces who had blocked the roads in and around the Petén area (i.e.: where we were headed). Thankfully it was all settled quickly and we lost no time but the prospect or retracing out steps through the north of Belize and most of the parts of Mexico that we had already traversed was not a welcome one.
Into Guatemala and the Petén area we had mid-summer in Tikal, perhaps the most important and largest Mayan site in Central America. Unfortunately the sun did not cooperate and show us how all the buildings were built according to the seasons and light directions but it was a brilliant mornings ramble. I think I have climbed more stairs in the last three weeks than I have climbed in the last three years! We saw lots of wildlife and had another excellent guide. Part of the film 'Return of the Jedi' was filmed there and it was amazing to be high over the canopy top looking into the greenness and seeing structure over a thousands years old poking up through the trees. Wonderful! From there we went to a place called Finca Ixobal, for lovely food and a chance to rest and relax before Antigua.
From there it was a straight drive to Antigua and more great views of the volcanoes that surround this town. I introduced my friends to a cafe that served eggs benedict and we all indulged in good coffee and other delights to be found here. Our travels also allowed me to revisit Chichicastenango and Panjachal and from there revisit my friends in San Pedro. I have revelled in the chance to feel at home here as I know where things are and how the system works – but from here on in it will be new territory.
The next four weeks promise to be full of adventure and new experiences as we traverse the lesser known and less touristy countries of Central America. Costa Rica is perhaps the exception to that but to me it will be all new. The other change will be the addition of a new member to our group, a British lass who is due to arrive today. She will be my roommate for the rest of the trip so …fingers crossed we get on. There will be no more camping or cooking off the truck though, as there are few places that suitable between here and Panama City so it is hotels and restaurants all the way. Should any of you get the inclination, a real letter would find me in Panama City at the hotel address on my list and I would love to hear from you.
Thanks Jacqui and keep us posted! If anyone would like to contact Jacqui, her e-mail is: jacquitrotter@yahoo.com
What have you seen on your travels? Drop a line to the Beetle! Beetle@globetrotters.co.uk