After four years back in London, the Beetle is scuttling to pastures new. She will continue to be involved with the Globetrotter e-newsletter, so please keep your stories, anecdotes and comments coming!

“Why, Sir, you find no man, at all intellectual, who is willing to leave London. No, Sir, when a man is tired of London, he is tired of life; for there is in London all that life can afford.” – Samuel Johnson

I've lived longer in London than any other place. I love London; if based in the UK, it's the only place I'd chose to live, but…you knew there was a 'but' coming…..like any large city, it has its downsides. On the plus side, I like London for its cosmopolitan mix of people and all that they bring with them. So, for example, one of my favourite restaurants is the Ethiopian restaurant, Merkato on Cally Rd.

I like London's tolerance for dress and eccentricity – if you want to have a pink Mohican, well fine, no-one is going to stop and stare, if you want to have 1000 piercings or walk down the road holding hands with the same sex – nobody minds, or is it more a question that nobody cares? One day whilst walking in the City, I almost bumped into a very tall man with 3 day stubble, blue eye shadow, pink lipstick, wearing a Laura Ashley print dress and Doc Martin boots, and he had amazingly hairy legs! I like the tolerance of however you want to present yourself goes, it's not frowned up to stand out. I like it that we have a live and let live attitude, so no matter what your personal, sexual or religious preferences are, that's fine in London.

I guess I like the diversity of people and backgrounds London offers and all the activities available. If you want to learn tango, go to origami classes, learn car maintenance or Japanese or dress making, there's always a class for you. The night life is good too, ranging from the sort of full on clubs you'd see in any big city to individual hang outs, great wine bars, coffee shops – there's something for everyone – at a price.

Most British people take our heritage completely for granted. I have to confess, I lived 3 minutes walk from St Paul's cathedral, but I've never been in it – I objected to the outrageous entry fee. I could have attended a service, but I didn't. I went to the Tower of London as a child, but not since. One job I had involved working in a John Nash designed building and walking past the Royal National Opera House and St Martins in the Fields on my way to work. I admit, I used to look up and think how lucky I was, but I have only been to the opera twice, though I use the café in the crypt at St Martins in the Field on the odd occasion, but both are very expensive. I like the theatre very much, and there are ways of obtaining reasonably priced tickets, but if you want to go and see a movie in the West End, it'll set you back around £10. The cinemas at the Barbican are my favourite, because you can choose where to sit, it's not quite so expensive and people are generally better behaved – and this is the key to my leaving London.

In London, there is a two tier system of activities and places to go. There are the places that tourists go, like Oxford St, Covent Garden and all of the shops, bars and restaurants around there that no self-respecting Londoner would admit to going to. They are usually too expensive, too loud, too busy and of embarrassing quality; you really have to know where to go, and if you are new to London, this takes time to build up. For me, and I am not a native Londoner, part of the fun in London is discovering new haunts and hang outs. Building this knowledge can be frustrating too. It took me years to find a decent plumber, electrician and painter, and still not found a good builder.

I find London expensive, and I live here, so I imagine that visitors must feel the same. I also think it often offers very poor value for money, ranging from the tourist trap restaurants to historic site entrance fees. Having lived and worked in the US, Germany, Switzerland, Cayman to name but a few places, I don't think we have a very good service culture here in the UK, in shops restaurants and other services. The costs of renting, and even buying a place in Central London are often prohibitive. Bus fares are outrageous – £1.20 a journey and usually take twice the time of a crowded tube in London's traffic. A tube journey costs a minimum now of £2.20 – just avoid rush hour if you can, tube travel is becoming unbearable. Weekly passes are better value, but still expensive. Londoners regularly complain about London transport, but I think we are lucky in having a good network of buses, tubes and trains, even if they are often unpleasantly crowded, smelly, dirty, expensive, slow and late – you try using public transport outside London, in rural areas in the UK, it is almost non existent. Mind you, when I compare the attitude of New York City subway kiosk attendants to the London Underground counter attendants, London wins, hands down for not being as rude and as unhelpful as their NYC counterparts. I won't even bother to discuss driving in London, with congestion zone charges, cameras, lack pf parking, astronomical parking charges and over zealous ticket toting traffic wardens.

Whilst I like the live and let live attitude in London about people's dress and preferences, there are chinks in this when it comes to public behaviour. In the past month, I have witnessed three incidents of bus rage – seriously! The first was a man who was too late to get on a bus on Upper St in Islington. The bus driver refused to let him on the bus as he'd pulled away from the bus stop, so the man walked in front of the bus, arms stretched out wide and refused to let the bus move on. After 10 minutes of this and a torrent of the foulest abuse imaginable, and the bus driver calmly radio-ing “we have a problem”, the man decided to try and punch in the driver's window, repeatedly spat at it and then tried to kick in the bus' folding doors. The passengers and I was one, sat frozen and mute in horror. Another bus incident involved a woman who was either mad or badly in need of help and announced that she was going to kill the vandals responsible for chopping down some tress near where she lived. She took to accusing the entire downstairs of the crowded bus and in particular a gaggle of chip eating school girls at the back of the bus who refused to open the window to let in some fresh air to dilute the stink of chips they were eating. The mad woman and the girls then proceeded to engage in a battle of the foulest language and threats until the mad woman got off. The third incident just makes for more depressing retelling. And yet, I have seen Asian youths give up their seat for older people, but no-one offer their seat on a sweltering and crowded tube for a very pregnant woman. I offered, she refused, like she expected this kind of behaviour. But there are good Samaritans: a couple of months back, I saw a lady trip on the bottom stair of a moving escalator at Euston and a huge number of people stopped to help pick her up, dust her down and collect her bags for her. We are not entirely a capital of monsters, but I do wonder sometimes. When I recounted these tales to my friends, they shrug and say, well, this is London.

I could be boring and go on about the weather, the politics, the dumbing down of our tv, (ironically, the only tv programmes I watch are from the US – CSI, Law & Order, Futurama and the odd film), the British press – we have some of the most obnoxious and intrusive tabloids in the world. We've just had a general election, though you wouldn't know it. Our political apathy is maybe based on the pathetic characters available for election. What's that Dr Johnson said?

The Human Development Index (HDI), published annually by the UN, ranks nations according to their citizens' quality of life rather than strictly by a nation's traditional economic figures. The criteria for calculating rankings include life expectancy, educational attainment, and adjusted real income.

Source: www.infoplease.com

Sally, from Malmsbury, Wiltshire in the UK packed her bags a few years ago to make a new home for herself in a small village near Estoril, Lisbon in Portugal. She works as an English as a Foreign Language teacher and here are some of her latest exploits. If you have ever thought or dreamt about becoming a TEFL teacher, then this may provide some inspiration.

I had an interesting job just after Christmas. I was asked to go to Lisbon to assess the level of English of six candidates for a job with a large insurance company. As it was 9.00 in the morning I decided to take the train. So I got up early, got the bus and then the train into Lisbon. It brought back vivid memories of all those months I commuted from Chippenham to Richmond just outside London, except that stood on a chilly platform at Estoril gazing at a blue sea certainly beat standing on a freezing platform at Chippenham and gazing at a car park with bored seagulls. The crowds negotiating train to metro were just like dear old Paddington but hey, trains coincide with the metro and I was at my appointment at 8.50 – not bad eh?

I really enjoyed the interviewing. They all sat round the table and I kicked off a conversation asking them what they all did – some were very good and articulate but there was the usual “I am better than all the rest” one who got on peoples' nerves. I then asked them to write a letter of application in English applying for the job and giving reasons why they thought they were suitable. This narrowed the field tremendously as although they could speak English well, their written work let them down. I managed to shortlist three with one clear contender and then was very pleased when the HR lady told me I had picked the three she had thought were right for the second stage. Result!

Teaching is still fun – I now have an Argentinean plastic surgeon who wants to move to England and has limited English. Joaquim is 33 and has been in Portugal for three years. His brother is a GP in Patagonia. He wants to have his own clinic eventually back in Argentina but the timing is not right at the moment. He is very keen for people to visit the country as the currency exchange is in our favour and not theirs at the moment. I took him on a practical lesson the other Saturday – a tour of Jumbo supermarket and Cascais fruit and vegetable market – he really enjoyed it.

I have also got a new class at a huge toy store. They are a hoot. They are all in the office and I do two hours with them usually on a Tuesday night. It's nice when you work on site as you get to see them in situ. They are very friendly with a wicked sense of humour and don't want books, just conversation and how to deal with English phone calls. One of my students has a great catchphrase when she doesn't understand – “whattee”. They are very interesting and ask intelligent questions regarding translations of phrases or as last week, the headings on a financial spreadsheet. When the Head of HR is not in the lesson, the questions tend to get more relaxed as in “Miss Sally, tell us some swear words in English”! Body parts are also of great amusement.

Jeronimos Monastery, Lisbon, photo by the Beetle

Jorge, my Siemens student, is constantly keeping me amused – if it's not the latest scandal in football, it's the problems at work and the entertaining saga of getting building permits and planning permission for his new house. He is a real pleasure to teach because he is such fun. In fact the whole office makes me very welcome and they all come over and chat and tell me whether they think he is improving or not. He went to Dresden two weeks ago that meant a couple of German/Portuguese/English lessons – I seem to be learning bits of German as well as Spanish these days.

Last week I gave him a crash course in football reporting – three English articles on Jose Mourinho and Chelsea – very amusing and of great interest to the other guys in the office that wanted to know what he was reading. I was very pleased when he told me that he had tried to read English articles on the plane to Dresden.

Tatiana, my tourism student, is having problems working on essays so we have been trying to break her block. We did a short one last week that was basically a précis of a Portuguese legend from Nazare. I'm hoping that the work we did will give her the confidence she needs. We started meeting in the coffee bar at Jumbo supermarket but the smoke was a pain on days when we couldn't sit outside, so then we moved to Cascais Library, where they have tables and chairs (and resident cat) outside but that got too cold. We then found a very nice pastelaria (Lua da Mel or Honeymoon) but recently she has had problems with babysitters, so we have the class in her flat with her baby daughter, Ayeesha who is very sweet and loves unloading my bag and pinching pencils.

Outdoor enthusiasts and holidaymakers planning trips to central and eastern Europe this year are being warned about a potentially life-threatening disease.

The 'Tick Alert' awareness campaign urges travellers to 16 named European countries, including many of the new popular destinations for outdoor tourism such as Croatia, Slovenia and Slovakia, to protect themselves against Tick Borne Encephalitis (TBE).

Increased tourism to rural and woodland areas of endemic countries in Europe is increasing the risk to visiting UK outdoor enthusiasts, the majority of whom remain unaware of the disease, how it is contracted or that they are members of a high-risk travel group.

TBE is a potentially life-threatening viral disease that can lead to meningitis and in serious cases can result in paralysis and death. It is transmitted via the bite of an infected tick, found typically in rural and forest areas up to a height of 3,000ft and occurs mainly during the late spring and summer months. The disease can also be transmitted by the ingestion of unpasteurised milk.

There has been a dramatic rise in the incidence of tick-borne diseases in central and eastern Europe over the last 10 years. TBE is now endemic in countries spreading from Sweden, across the Baltics and down to Croatia.

The fact that a number of endemic countries conduct intensive inoculation programmes for their resident populations should be heeded by all UK visitors.

“There is a low awareness of TBE, even among people experienced in outdoor activities abroad,” said Tick Alert's Lynda Bramham. “The aim of this campaign is to encourage anyone travelling to TBE endemic regions, and at risk of the disease through their outdoor leisure activity, to take effective precautions.”

Official figures show the number of UK tourists to the former Yugoslavia rose by 40 per cent last summer to 114,000 compared with the previous 12 months. Similarly, visitors to central and eastern Europe reached 558,000, an increase of 38 per cent.

Adventure travel, hiking and mountain biking in Europe are all increasing in popularity as people discover these new destinations.

A 2004 report by Mintel highlighted the growth of agritourism and countryside holidays in places such as Croatia and Estonia, and the Association of British Travel Agents (ABTA) lists Slovenia and Bulgaria among its hot tips for holidays in 2005.

Professor Sarah Randolph, head of the Oxford Tick Research Group at the University of Oxford said: “In some countries of mainland Europe the most serious vector-borne disease is caused by a virus transmitted by ticks, tick-borne encephalitis (TBE), which may kill one in every hundred people infected.”

There are a number of bite prevention measures that can be taken to reduce the risk of infection: these include using an insect repellent, wearing protective clothing to cover all areas of exposed skin, regularly inspecting your body for tick bites and carefully removing any that are found. However, the Foreign Office advises that travellers to TBE endemic regions seek inoculation advice form their local surgery of clinic – well before travelling.

Immunisation against TBE is available as a paid-for travel vaccine from specialist travel health clinics operated by MASTA, the UK's leading provider, and at GP surgeries and healthcare centres. For further information and advice for travellers visit www.masta.org/tickalert

We are sorry to say that Mac is not very well, but he is still e-mailing strong and recently sent the Beetle a collection of travel reminiscences and in particular discusses some travel writers. Former Globetrotter President, Arthur Frommer (Europe On $5 A Day) gave an interesting interview to travel writer Michael Shapiro for Michael's book, A Sense of Place Great Travel Writers Talk About their Craft, Lives and Inspiration.

In this he writes: “As a G.I. stationed in Germany in the mid 1950s, Frommer had travelled on a shoestring whenever he had a couple of days off. Early on, he realized an essential truth pertaining to intrepid travellers. The less you spend, the more you enjoy. After travelling widely throughout Europe and self-publishing a slender guide for G.I.s, Frommer wrote his seminal Europe on $5 a day”.

Arthur Frommer was my hero and his books were my bible for years. One of his funny stories: “Our first edition of Mexico on 5 Dollars A Day was written by John Wilcock who hates Mexican food. He spends pages telling you where you can find a decent tuna fish salad sandwich in Mexico City. I think I wrote to tell them that place he recommended was now a parking lot! He doesn't like Mexican food, yet he is the author of one of classic guidebooks to Mexico. When you read the restaurant chapter you could tell that he is virtually holding his nose. I never changed that – what he wrote went into print. In my opinion, a copy editor's function is grammar, punctuation, consistent abbreviations and the like- it's not style. A copy editor has no right to impose his or his style upon the author.”

Close to home here he tells of “A young woman named Beth Bryant called us many years ago she lived in Washington, D.C. and said she wanted to write guidebooks. I said write the restaurant section of a hypothetical guidebook to Washington, D.C. in which you rate the government cafeterias. And she wrote this absolutely delightful comparison of the Justice Department cafeteria with the Commerce Department all of which are open to public visits. We immediately knew that we had a star on our hands. She was sent to Ireland where she wrote the first edition of our Ireland guidebook which is a travel classic. It's one of the best ones we have ever done.”

I am reading and enjoying A Fortune Teller Told Me by Tiziano Terzani. Here are some sentences I have copied down. Page 58: it was the Burmese kings hankering after one of the King of Siams' seven white elephants, very rare and therefore magical that sparked a war which lasted three hundred years – the upshot being that Auydhya (Siam's then capital) was destroyed and the Siamese had to build a new capital, present day Bangkok.

Page 54. The tie. Originally a Mogul invention for dragging prisoners tied to the pommels of their saddles. Note from the Beetle: some people believe that tie originates from Croatia. IN the 17th century, a huge number of soldiers and knights went to Paris to give their support to King Louis XIII and Cardinal Richelieu. Some Croatian mercenaries went too, wearing traditional costumes whose traditional included colourful scarves tied around their necks. This attracted the attention of the fashion-conscious French who adopted it as part of the uniform for French officers. The description “a la croate” evolved into “la cravate”. British exiled King Charles II took the fashion with him from France and soon the tie or cravat spread across Europe to America.

On Bangkok, page 33. Spirit temples and small shrines. The phii (spirit) of the plot of land where the old Erawan Hotel (in Bangkok) was built was so happy with the way it has been treated that it took to performing miracles and today its temple is still one of the most frequented and most popular in Bangkok. One of its specialties is to aid the conception of male offspring and thousands of sterile women have come to it with all sorts of offerings; some dance around it semi-nude at night. (Mac: I wish they would be more specific. At what time??)

Laos, page 27. During the war, every time the Pathet Lao crossed a river the last man had to turn back and call to a non existent comrade. The spirit of the river habitually carries off the last of the line i.e. the last man in the patrol, and in that way the guerrillas hoped to deceive it.

Tibet, page 2l. The Chinese to facilitate tourist access have decided to modernise the lighting of the Potala (used to be Dalai Lama palace-temple) and have installed neon lights. This is no accident as neon kills everything even the Gods. And as they die, the Tibetan identity gradually dies with them. This Italian writer travelled for a year in 1993 without using a plane as a fortune teller had told him not to travel by plane in 1993. He is the Far Eastern correspondent of the German newsmagazine Der Spiegel. Since 1994 he has made New Delhi his base.

Interesting times! Happy trails, Mac. Mac can be contacted on: macsan400@yahoo.com

Ryanair has banned its staff from charging their mobile (cell) phones at work, saying it is an inappropriate use of office time. A UK newspaper reported that staff were “furious” about the rule. However, a Ryanair spokeswoman said no-one had “batted an eyelid” since the rule was introduced about two months ago. She said the decision to ban the charging of phones was more related to work ethic than cost-cutting – though “obviously there is a small saving”. “It's not good for people to be charging up their phones in work time,” the spokeswoman said.

The gentle sound of Guitars drifting across the tropical air whether it be in the market square in the borough of Laranjeiras or by the beach in Ipanema, introduced me to the sound called “Chorinho” – The crying or weeping of guitars. The music started about the turn of the 20th century and like jazz is free flowing and improvised. The lead instrument is called a “Cavaquinho”, a small guitar and the music is always instrumental in form, but many times has a flute or Sax amongst the various guitars. The undulating but easy listening rhythm is controlled by the guitars and usually one tambourine. “Chorinho” fell out of fashion for a time but seems to be making a come back, especially on Saturday mornings around the town, where the musicians gather quite a crowd.

A place not to be missed if you are in Rio is, “Centro de Cultura do Carioca”. A club or bar in the City of Rio, near the club land of the district of Lapa, that appeals to people of all types and ages and has very good Samba, Choarinho, Popular Brazilian Music and always has a first class group and singers. 15 R$ (four pounds Sterling) entrance fee and tins of beer for about 60p each. Caipirinha, a large one costs one pound fifty.

Book a table and arrive about 9pm or you will have to stand all the night long. A place, that all seem to be letting their hair down and having a great time as Brazilians seem to do well and I know that I certainly was.

The only tourists, if you could call them that, were an American Surfing Photographer, who had lived here for four years, an Argentinean, who had fallen in love, both with Rio and a girl during Canaval. As the club empted about 3.30 am my friends and I went to sit by the sea in a district called Leme. A bar called “Sindicato do Chopp” (Union of the Draft Beers) I knew it well from a past magazine shoot and there we relaxed and downed a last drink before that magic hour when the sun rose and my lovely cool Princess, turned into Sleeping Beauty and I turned back into a frog.

One Saturday back in April 2004, I decided somewhat hastily to go to Donsol, Sorsogon, at the southern tip of Luzon in the Philippines, to check out the whale sharks (Rhincodon typus), also known in Bicolano as Butanding. It is a three-hour drive south from Naga to Donsol by way of Daraga, Albay, giving me a chance to check out Mayon volcano. The perfect cone appears to have been damaged by recent eruptions as viewed from the Camalig/Guinobatan side. Sorsogon is one of the six provinces in Southern Luzon in the Philippines which belong to what is referred to as the Bicol Region.

I arrived in Donsol at the Butanding Interaction Center in Woodland Resort at around 9:15 am, and was on a boat with a crew of four by 9:30 am. Why four? Well, it turns out that I needed a motor operator, a pilot, a spotter and a guide, otherwise known as a BIO (Butanding Interaction Officer). This was a very good and conscientious crew.

Within thirty minutes, we had ten sightings of the Butanding, and a total of 17 sightings in one hour. I was not sure if these sightings were all different individuals but they did look different to me. Some were big and long (males), others shorter and wider (females). Some were juveniles. Some had damaged tails or fins (a.k.a. the BIO called one individual Putol) and others had scars (scar face, etc.) It also helped that March to May is the best time to watch these gentle giants and that the moon was full, which supposedly encourages greater activity among them. I was not prepared to snorkel, and so did not see the sharks at even closer range, short of touching them. The Center was run by an NGO in cooperation with the local government, and was doing well in helping the local fisherfolk earn income from eco-tourism. By the time my boat sailed out into the bay, thirty other trips had already been initiated on that day to interact with the Butanding. Apparently, if I went out to the bay when the center opened at 7:30 am, I would have seen the Butanding surfacing even more. But the sightings I experienced at 9:30-10:00 am were close enough.

The NGO turned out to be the World Wide Fund for Nature (WWF). It appears that whale sharks have long swarmed Donsol waters to feed on the bay's abundant plankton. The sharks had coexisted peacefully with locals, when in 1997, word got out that the rare shark and the world's largest fish migrated to Donsol every summer. This spurred Donsol officials to organize a whale shark interaction program for tourists and to declare Donsol as a whale shark sanctuary. WWF, under a matching grant from US Agency for International Development, began providing support in 2004 to ensure that Donsol's growing tourism contributes to both marine conservation and local livelihoods. Hunting of this vulnerable population of whale sharks is now banned to deal with constant threats from hunters attracted by the lucratively priced shark fins and meat.

Donsol municipality is also promoting a river cruise and firefly tour as part of its diversification program of ecotourism activities. The Regional Director of Tourism for Bicol proudly reports that, in the past five years, Donsol has moved from being one of the poorest to one of the richest municipalities in the Bicol region.

In November, 2004, Time Asia Magazine's 2004 Best of Asia Report selected whale shark watching in Donsol as best animal encounter.

A good weblink on the whale sharks of Donsol is www.camperspoint.com

Gil Dy-Liacco traces his roots to Naga City in the Philippines, and works with USAID/Philippines as Mission Economist and Deputy Chief for Program Resources Management.

Globetrotter Jon Hornbuckle wrote in to add his experience of whale sharks: the only time I saw a whale-shark was off San Blas, west Mexico in Feb. We took a small boat off-shore to look for birds and were surprised to see the relatively small whale-shark right by the boat, quite common at this time according to the boatman.