Category Archives: Main article

Ramadan by Alhabib, Libya

Alhabib is from the Tuareg people in Libya and sent us this fascinating insight into the Islamic festival of Ramadan.

Ramadan is the ninth month of the Muslim calendar. It is during this month that Muslims fast and when Muslims concentrate on their faith. It is a time of worship and contemplation. There are fairly strict rules about how one can live during the month of Ramadan: during the Fast of Ramadan, Muslims are not allowed to eat or drink during daylight hours and smoking and sexual relations are also forbidden during fasting. At the end of each day, the fast is broken with prayer and a meal called the iftar. In the evening following the iftar, it is customary for Muslims to go out visiting family and friends and the fast is resumed the next morning

As the holy time of Ramadan approaches, everyone is very happy and starts to prepare for it. The women in the home usually prepare special meals for the month of Ramadan. Everyone is happy and anticipating the coming of this holy month. Ramadan begins after watching the crescent shaped moon at midnight or even later. During this period, Muslims start their day before early dawn and eat a meal, called the Sahour. This is sufficient for fasting for the day. After that, they begin the worship and call to God for forgiveness. All Muslims must fast between the hours of dawn and dusk.

Before sunset the women prepare delicious savoury food. At sunset , when the call to prayer to Al Magreb is made, all the family gather round the feast to eat. They begin with some dates and some milk (this is the sunna of the prophet Mohamed ) and then begin the Magreb prayer. After praying they return to eat and drink. There is lots of visiting going on and much time is spent with friends and all houses are open to receive any guest from anywhere.

After eating the Iftar (breakfast), much worship and prayers take place during the month, and at night, when the call to prayer for the evening Aisha begins, people go to the mosques to pray evening prayers. They pray the Al Traweh prayer and this continues every night. On the 27th night, the Greater Night (Alila Alkabira ) which is called (Night of Al Gadr), the holy Koran begins to descend from heaven to prophet Mohamed. On this night people recite the Koran all the night until dawn so as to be close to God.

After the end of the holy month of Ramadan, the holy Bairam comes. In the Morning of the first day of the lesser Bairam, the people get out to the Plazas to pray the Feast prayer. It is two bows: after praying, each person begins to greet each other (Alsalam) happily and to wish him a merry feast. After the Feast after the holy month, the lesser Bairam continues for three days, all of it to visit friends and family and everyone is happy.

If you would like to contact Alhabib about Ramaddan or Libya, he can be reached by e-mail on: tenerecotour@yahoo.com


European Rail Timetable Resources

Spotted by our webmaster, Paul. If you are planning to travel in Europe by train, then the links below will take you to the English language versions of local rail journey planners. The majority of these provide timetable, ticket and booking facilities.

Belgium http://www.b-rail.com
Denmark http://www.dsb.dk
Finland http://www.vr.fi
France http://www.sncf.fr
Germany http://www.bahn.de
Italy http://www.trenitalia.com
Ireland http://www.irishrail.ie
Luxembourg http://www.cfl.lu
Netherlands http://www.ns.nl
Spain http://www.renfe.es
Sweden http://www.samtrafiken.se
UK https://www.thetrainline.com/
Eurostar http://www.eurostar.com

Stuart’s Guide to Angkor Wat

Former Globetrotters Committee member Stuart was recently based in Cambodia whilst working for Voluntary Services Overseas. In this article, he gives us the benefit of his experience and tells us his top tips.

Transport

Tuk tuk (seats 2) – $8 a day (sunrise to sunset) for the central temples (Angkor Wat, Angkor Thom, Ta Prohm), $15 to go to Banteay Srei, they may want and extra $1 to go to Neak Pean but this is a bit cheeky.

I recommend Kinal as a driver – very gentle person, speaks a bit of English, drives slowly and carefully, has a nice new tuk-tuk. Tel: 012 909 730.

Alternative is to go by moto for about $5-8.

There are 2 boat options – new Japanese boat or old boat. The new one has just started and they had a promo deal on for July and Aug of $30 o/w but the normal price is $55, which is comparable to flying. It’s about the same time as the old boat. Guesthouses in Siem Reap can arrange tickets. It has an air-con downstairs with nice seats, free meal and drinks, normal volume films and a covered deck with chairs. They also pick you up and take you to/from the boat at both ends. Additional perks include life jackets and lifeboats, which are not to be found on the old boats.

The old boats are normally $25 o/w but they dropped their prices to $10-15 in the face of competition from the new one but they may well go back up again once the promo period is over. Old boats all seem to be quite similar – “bullet boats” or “express boats” or “rambo boats”. Basically a metal cylinder with cramped air-conned interior and VERY loud videos (Khmer comedy or kung fu – bring ear plugs). Trick is to get a seat away from a speaker and not too close to the back (engine noise and industrial strength aircon). Probably not for claustrophobics as the only 2 doors are small and what would happen in the event of an accident doesn’t bear thinking about.

Alternatively, sit on the roof – take plenty of sun cream, water and a scarf (2-3000 riel for a kroma – checked Khmer scarf, from any market) to cover body parts that will get roasted/soaked regardless. Once the thing gets going it is very fast and exposed. There is no barrier at the outside edge of the boat, only a ledge to walk along and a rail at shoulder height to hold onto, so if you need to go to the loo (inside) during the 5-6 hour trip (cf. drinking lots of water tip above) then don’t fall in on the way as they probably won’t stop to pick you up. Put valuables in plastic bags to avoid them being drenched.

However, if you want to take photos then the roof is the place to be. There is a Vietnamese floating village just at the Siem Reap boat boarding place which is very photogenic. Once in the lake itself the scenery is not great as the banks are far away. The stretch from Kompong Chhnang to PP is scenic as the banks are close and there are lots of other boats fishing etc.

Food & Accom

I haven’t tried too many places but can recommend Soup Dragon (run by an ex-VSO) and Blue Pumpkin (also does good bakery things). Watch the restaurants near the temples – they’re much more expensive than elsewhere (as are the drinks stands – buy in Siem Reap and leave them in the tuk-tuk). I’m not sure but I think some places have 2 menus – one for foreigners and the other for locals. The alternative is to stock up on picnic things in Siem Reap.

Top tip: you can swim in the very nice pool at the Angkor Village Hotel for free – just be discrete about it.

There are loads of places to stay in all price ranges. We stayed at the Green Garden Home guest house, which is a little out of the centre i.e. a 5-10 min walk to the market. Quiet garden setting with rooms from $10-25.

Shopping

Don’t bother buying souvenirs here as they’re much cheaper and better quality/selection in Phnom Penh. One thing you might want to get is the Angkor guide book by Dawn Rooney which gives you the detailed low down on each temple. $2-5 for a photocopied version, available everywhere. There are also 2 little visitors’ guides available in guesthouses which have up-to-date maps and listings.

Temples

This year the Government has introduced photo passes – you get taken into a little room and have your picture taken (free – or you can take a photo along if you prefer/have one to hand) for putting on your pass. $20 for 1 day; $40 for 2-3; $60 for 4-7. 3 days is nice and not rushed at all, you probably need 2 minimum if you want to get to Banteay Srei/not hang around; it probably is possible to cover most of the main sights in a day if you happen to be Japanese. Reserve one of your days for a sunrise/set visit – recommended.

There are loads of temples to see and they’re spread over a huge area but recommendations are:

  • Angkor Wat – can’t come to Cambodia and not see this. There are 2 pools inside the grounds ideally situated for sunrise/set shots. Make sure you’ve got a guidebook that can explain the bas reliefs – the churning of the sea makes more sense once it’s been explained. Stairs to the top are precarious.
  • Angkor Thom/Bayon – doesn’t look much from afar but once inside those faces really get to you – a marvel. Don’t forget to check out the bas reliefs here too – lots of apsaras in good condition.
  • Ta Promh – overgrown with trees, looking a bit like it’s just been discovered. Atmospheric but difficult to photograph in the rain as it is quite dark.
  • Banteay Srei – a trek from Siem Reap but well worth it. Very different from the main temples – it’s made from red stone and the carving is very intricate. It is surprisingly small.
  • Pre Rup – on the way to B. Srei and it just seems to appear from nowhere. I particularly enjoyed trying to explain elementary arithmetic to the girl on the top – she wanted to sell 10 bangles for 4000 riel but refused to sell 5 for 2000!
  • Preah Neak Pean – because it’s so different – it comes as a bit of a shock after all those crumbling temples. This one is a complex of 5 pools. Very little to it but a change is as good as a rest.
  • Others:
  • Banteay Kdei – quite similar to the others. Maybe I was getting watted out by this point.
  • Srah Srang – the king’s bath but really just a set of stairs and a field!
  • Preah Khan – has “enchanting walks”. Shaped liked a huge cross with many of the designs similar to other temples.

We didn’t make it to the Roulos group (the earliest temples), Phnom Kulen, the river of 1000 lingkas (apparently very good once there’s been enough rain to cover the carvings) or any of the other minor places.

Film

Film is available cheaply in Siem Reap. Not so sure about quality of processing but can recommend a place in PP which is cheap, quick and good.

If you go for a sunrise/set visit to the temples and you’ve got an SLR then underexpose to get nice silhouette shots.

Take at least 400ASA film for the temples as some of them can be surprisingly dark, especially if it is raining/cloudy – you may find yourself needing a flash at times.

For more information, visit Stuart’s website:http://uk.geocities.com/stuartincambodia


Mac’s Travel Tips, USA

Mac has been reading and researching again! The following travel tips are a culmination of his recent reading.

Luggage tags: these can easily be lost. One potential solution is to put your address inside your suitcase or to put some distinctive marking with a permanent marking pen on the side of the suitcase, such as a circle, or triangle. On that advice, I have put a big cross on each area of my baggage. I hope someone will think maybe there is religious stuff inside, that I am a missionary or something and won’t steal my naughty magazines inside. (Only kidding!)

Getting lost – directions: one person suggested when you go to theme parks or such like, he goes to the right, then to the left and so on and return in reverse. Now why didn’t I think of that! (Globetrotters membership Secretary Kevin takes his compass with him on his trips to Japan to ensure that he exits subways in the right direction.)

Showers: if you don’t have shower clogs, one person suggests putting a hand towel on the bottom of shower tray and standing on it . Another person suggests that when you enter your hotel room you should turn on the shower for a few minutes which will get rid of the build up of spores that cause Legionnaires disease.

Taxis: one person suggested on leaving a taxi, to leave the door open while you are getting your bags out of the boot/trunk., this way the taxi can’t drive off before you have had a chance to make sure you haven’t left anything behind.

Travel on Sundays: I often travel on Sunday but one person recommends not travelling on Sundays as most train and bus times are infrequent or destinations are limited and many stores and businesses close early or are not open, such as money changers.

If you would like to contact Mac, he is happy to answer e-mails: macsan400@yahoo.com


Warning: Lastminute.com by Trevor, UK

Trevor from the UK writes to tell us of his experience booking flights through the internet based travel company lastminute.com. He says:

Be very careful before booking flights through lastminute.com. I recently booked two flights a week or two in advance of travelling and elected to collect my tickets via the e-ticket mechanism. My account was duly debited for two tickets and I received confirmation to the effect that the e-tickets had been issued. So far so good. We then arrived at the airline check-in desk on the morning we were due to fly only to be told by the airline that they only had one e-ticket on the system and had no record of a second e-ticket ever being issued.

We were unable to contact lastminute.com (the only obvious way of contacting anyone at lastminute.com seems to be via an online web form) and we were faced with the choice of either;

A] Abandon our holiday

B] Pay the airline to issue the other e-ticket

C] Go by myself and leave my wife in England [ just kidding… 🙂 ]

We took option [B] and I contacted lastminute.com to obtain an explanation and a refund for the second e-ticket that we were charged for but never received. I received an email informing me that my wife’s name was too long (longer than a piece of string, presumably) and so they hadn't issued the second e-ticket. No explanation as to why I hadn't been informed of a problem prior to turning up at the airport, or even an apology. The best they could offer was to “request a refund via the airline on [our] behalf”.

We're still waiting for our money, and I'm now considering legal action.

Caveat emptor, as they say.

If you want to contact Trevor, he can be e-mailed on: trev_gs@blueyonder.co.uk


Our Friends Ryanair

Why is that the low cost airlines don’t offer frequent flier awards? It seems that unlike the US, none of the European low cost carriers have frequent-flier programs. Southwest Airlines, the model for low-cost carriers, including our friends Ryanair, gave away 2.3 million free tickets last year – more than United Airlines – with its online “double bonus” promotion, which means that with four trips you get one free when you reserve on the Web. Is this something we should be demanding?

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Our webmaster noticed that Ryanair offer a telephone service called Ryanair telecom. As we are usually unkind about Ryanair, we thought this month we’d try and find something kind to say about them, so here are the details on their latest special offer. We have not used it and can’t say if it is any good, but were bemused that this was another one of their activities. This is what they say:

We have an offer on at the moment giving away 1,000,000 FREE calls in the form of 50,000 x 20 minute calls. To get your free calls, call+353 1 246 23 33and we will call you back within 15 seconds! You must call from your fixed line phone and register with a Visa or MasterCard credit card. Once you register, you will then receive a free call from your mobile or fixed line phone. You will get a 20 minutes FREE talk time if you call from your fixed line phone to any fixed line phone (premium rate calls excluded) in Europe, Australia, China, North America, South Africa or Russia when you successfully register. This offer applies to touch tone phones and excludes calls made from payphones, switchboard phones or Internet phones. If the call exceeds 20 minutes, you will be charged at prevailing rates. Ryanair Telecom reserves the right to refuse to supply this service and may discontinue this offer or service at anytime. This offer is also subject to our normal terms and conditions .


MEETING NEWS

Meeting news from our branches around the world.


Iris’s Diary of An Overland Trip Through South America

Iris takes part in a barbecue in Brazil.

We went to a little town called Ouro Preto, in Brazil, which is in the centre of a mining area, which produced gem stones. We visited the museum which shows all the different metals and minerals mined and they have an impressive display of what they produce, including polished stones, although I am convinced the diamonds on display must be paste because they are so big and there are only teenage boys guarding them!!!

After Ouro Preto we did a bit of travelling with a one night stand at a place called Jacaraipe, which was by the coast and was the first of many camp sites which, although not on the beach, were full of sand. (How I have got to hate sand since I’ve been on this last stretch of the trip! It gets everywhere and one seems totally unable to get rid of it entirely and it turns up afterwards in my day sack, in my socks, in my shoes, in my hair, for days on end!)

Then we headed for Itaunas where we spent a couple of nights, arriving at about mid-afternoon and immediately arranging for a barbecue for the evening . We’d bought some pork and beef, and lots of potatoes so that we could roast them in the oven. We had been assured by our leaders that the Brazilians were a barbecue nation, they knew all about barbecuing, so when the owner of the camp site told our revered leader, Heather, that it would be better done on the beach as there weren’t the facilities at the camp site, she readily agreed and at the appointed hour, we packed up the food and also the ingredients for what was going to be a rather lethal vodka punch and headed for the beach.

Itaunas is an unspoilt little village at the edge of the sea, there is no real tourism there and it made me laugh to see those little village shops with their “Visa” and “Mastercard” signs in the window as they weren’t selling anything that would cost more than the odd pound or two! We trekked all the way down the main street, which is really a mud track, over the bridge, and along the track for some 500 metres, and then we had to turn off and start climbing – yes some really big sand dunes with sand that literally could come up to your neck if you trod in the wrong place! The path was marked by the odd rubbish bin and it was quite free of trees (this is important for later) but it was still at least another 300 metres from the beach and the bar we were heading for, but eventually after a half hour walk we were there.

The beach was very narrow and the sea was in. It was also getting dusk by the time we arrived and then Heather had the news – the owner had not yet located the barbecue! Still, we lived in hope. I was part of the cook team for the evening, our actual cook being Alex, a really tall well-built Chinese gentleman who was born in Hong Kong but arrived in England in 1967 to take up a nursing career and now at the age of 55 has retired from nursing (he ended up in an important administrative post in the hospital equivalent to the old matrons) and he is an accomplished chef who thoroughly enjoys cooking and turns out some really tasty meals. He has also a wicked sense of humour and keeps us all amused with his wry remarks.

Anyway, we got on with making the vodka punch (I didn’t participate because I’m not a spirits drinker and so stuck to beer and the odd soft drink) but just about everything was going into the punch. Then came the news, the barbecue had arrived. There were 22 hungry mouths waiting for that food and so you can imagine how many steaks, pork chops and fish steaks we had to cook. The bad news was that our barbecuing host provide us with a little grill which would take 2 steaks at a time!

Out the back of the bar there was a bonfire (burning rubbish) and so it was decided to improvise (it was quite dark by now) and see if the bonfire could be utilised, but the problem was we had no grills to put across it. So our host got his workers to dig a pit and transfer some of the bonfire into it and plus our barbecue coals it seemed that was the way to go, except the only grill they could come up with was the grill which would normally go across the top of a 4-ring gas cooker! Of course it was totally inadequate as well as being totally unsuitable and in the end we had to abandon the idea of a barbecue altogether.

We just used the small barbecue to cook the fish steaks (four) and then Alex set to in the kitchen and with the aid of two big frying pans cooked the pork chops first (which were delicious and so tender – I’ve never tasted such succulent pork chops in my life before), but unfortunately when the beef was cooked it turned out to have died of old age and the cooking just made it tougher and no-one ate the beef!

So what did most people do? They got drunk on the vodka punch! Judith and I decided to leave quite early (around 2200) and so set out with three of the men who were also fed up with the barbecue and just wanted to get back into town and do a bit of drinking there, so we headed off up the sand dunes – but it is surprising how different they looked at night in the pitch dark with no lights to guide us except the odd torch!

We were first of all walking, then scrambling almost on hands and knees up and down steep sand dunes, and continually ending up at dead ends because the other side of the sand dunes there was scrubland and water, lots of it! Judith and I were often left far behind by the men, would lose sight of them and start yelling and then see their lights heading back our way because they’d had to do a U-turn! Eventually we found the right path, more by luck than judgement, and found we had walked a considerable way in the wrong direction which put at least twenty minutes on our journey back to town. On the way we encountered the odd car and van luckily displaying headlights, but then we found we were among a whole crowd of cyclists with no lights at all! It was pretty hairy trying to see and avoid them! All those people in Itaunas must have cats’ eyes!

When we arrived in town, we thanked our men friends for looking after us so well – it was sarcasm really as they had left us way behind once we were on the right path and we only saw them again when we got into town and found them sitting at a bar and one of them, a Korean gentleman we call Young, and who speaks very little English, insisted we join them and have a beer before retiring.

But although we thought we had had an adventure it was nothing that happened to all our friends who had stayed behind to finish off the Vodka punch and other spirits and beer. They all got plastered and every single one of them got lost on the way back with varying effects. One of our leaders, a chap called Martin, got himself steaming drunk, convinced Alex he knew the way home, and promptly led him a merry dance in the pitch dark without torches through scrubland and bushes, so that Alex ended up losing his shoes, his T-shirt and his truck keys, and getting his back and arms and legs scratched by every conceivable thorn and twig. Next day, Heather asked what on earth made them head that way when they knew there were no trees on the path we had originally taken! There was no answer except to admit they were too drunk to know what they were doing! Another of our number lost his trousers and his T-shirt and his camera, and another of us, a lady called Alison, got a badly grazed knee and bruised hip falling about in an unladylike manner!

So in one way it was good we’d had the barbecue on the day of our arrival because we only planned to stay two nights before moving on so everyone had a day to recover from their excesses and attempt to find their lost possessions, but all searches were fruitless as all those possessions were gone the next day (although it is more than probable they were lost on the way home and therefore extremely difficult to find) The most serious loss was of Alex’s truck keys because they open all the padlocks on the truck and we each are issued with a set at the start of the trip and are told to guard them with our lives! Unfortunately also, just prior to Itaunas we had all been issued with new keys as the old padlocks were at the end of their life and so all new padlocks had recently been fitted! I dare say Alex had to pay a fine for losing his and extra to get a new set!


Meeting News from London by Padmassana

On October Saturday 4th, our first speaker was Globie member Roger Widdecombe who showed us what a Raleigh International expedition is really like. Roger’s project was in the west African country of Ghana. These trips are no holiday: participants undergo assessment and rigorous training in orienteering and crossing rivers, first aid etc. Once in Ghana, there were many projects for Roger and his group to take part in, including building a school in a remote village, health programmes dealing with blindness caused by cataracts and for those who wanted to work nights, working on a project monitoring turtles as they came in each night to lay their eggs on the beach. Roger assured us that although the participants do work hard, they also have a lot of fun, including playing football in forty degree heat with the local people and enjoying canoe expeditions on Lake Volta.

Whilst our first speaker had talked of travelling and doing good, our second speaker Juliet Coombes’ theme was travelling and having fun! Juliet’s talk was about the festivals around the world. She showed us colourful photos of the bulls at Pamplona, mad water festivals in Thailand, The Full Moon festival in Laos, and the colourful Venice festival held in the weeks leading up to Lent. The Venetian festival involves lots of dressing up, particularly in masks and in previous centuries was an excuse for much debauchery, sorry Globies, you are 200 years too late! There are thousands of festival around the world each year, too many for Juliet to show us, but she did tell us about boat festivals in Cambodia and Elf festivals in Iceland, before winding up her talk by looking at London’s own Notting Hill carnival.

Next month, on Saturday 1st November, Amar Grover will talk about India – The “Hindustan Tibet” road and on to Ladakh in which Amar looks at India’s National Highway 22 “The Hindustan-Tibet” Road, an old trading route that exited the Raj but never quite took off. His talk includes the Tibetan regions of India, Spiti and Ladakh.

After Amar and the break, Tom Freemantle will be talking about Mexico to Manhattan with a Pack Mule, a 2,600 mile walk retracing the footsteps of his ancestor, Colonel Arthur Fremantle, who travelled from North Mexico to New York at the height of the American Civil War in 1863. The swashbuckling colonel used stage coaches, paddle steamers and steam trains to get around but nearly 140 years later his great-great nephew used a cantankerous but heroic mule called “Brown”

London meetings are held at The Church of Scotland, Crown Court, behind the Fortune Theatre in Covent Garden at 2.30pm the first Saturday of each month. There is no London meeting in August, but we will be back in September. For more information, you can contact the Globetrotters Info line on +44 (0) 20 8674 6229, or visit the website: www.globetrotters.co.uk


Chagas Disease

What is Chagas disease? Also called American trypanosomiasis, Chagas disease is an infection caused by the parasite Trypanosoma cruzi. Chagas disease primarily affects low income people living in rural areas. It is estimated that 16-18 million people are infected with Chagas disease; of those infected, 50,000 will die each year. Chagas disease is locally transmitted in Argentina, Belize, Bolivia, Brazil, Chile, Colombia, Costa Rica, Ecuador, El Salvador, French Guiana, Guatemala, Guyana, Honduras, Mexico, Nicaragua, Panama, Paraguay, Peru, Suriname, Uruguay, and Venezuela.

How do I get it? Small critters called “kissing bugs” that live in cracks and holes of substandard housing primarily found in South and Central America. Insects become infected after biting an animal or person who already has Chagas disease. Infection is spread to humans when an infected bug deposits feces on a person’s skin, usually while the person is sleeping at night. The person often accidently rubs the feces into the bite wound, an open cut, the eyes, or mouth.

How do I know if I have it? There are three stages of infection with Chagas disease; each stage has different symptoms. Some people may be infected and never develop symptoms. Acute symptoms only occur in about 1% of cases and most people infected do not seek medical attention. The most recognized symptom of acute Chagas infection is the Romaña’s sign, or swelling of the eye on one side of the face, usually at the bite wound or where feces were rubbed into the eye. Other symptoms are usually not specific for Chagas infection. These symptoms may include fatigue, fever, enlarged liver or spleen, and swollen lymph glands. Sometimes, a rash, loss of appetite, diarrhea, and vomiting occur. In infants and in very young children with acute Chagas disease, swelling of the brain can develop in acute Chagas disease, and this can cause death. In general, symptoms last for 4-8 weeks and then they go away, even without treatment.

What should I do if I have Chagas disease? See your doctor for a blood tests to determine whether there are parasite or antibodies in your blood. Medication for Chagas disease is usually effective when given during the acute stage of infection. Once the disease has progressed to later stages, medication may be less effective. In the chronic stage, treatment involves managing symptoms associated with the disease.

How can I prevent Chagas disease? Avoid sleeping in thatch, mud, or adobe houses, and use insecticides to kill insects and reduce the risk of transmission. There is neither a vaccine nor recommended drug available to prevent Chagas disease.