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Thin Girl with a Headscarf by Richard Mowell

Richard Mowll is a civil engineer from Croydon, who travelled to Western Uzbekistan in January 2002 with MSF to rehabilitate a 600 patient TB dispensary. He then went on to prepare a 100 bed facility for multi-drug resistant (MDR-TB) patients, where he was Project Co-ordinator of the 16 Médecins Sans Frontières (MSF) staff programme.

“The dispensary building in Nukus was a mess – the result of the near collapse of the health service in this country over many years. Through my work there, one incident stands out. A minor incident but one which left a lasting impact…”

To know what new pipework to order, I inspected the Dispensary room by room to measure sizes and to identify the fittings. As I was in one open room with just a bath in it, a thin girl with a headscarf walked slowly past me and up to the bath. She held on to the side with both hands and with apparently all the strength she had, she coughed. Weak, pitiful, tiny coughs. She was clearly beyond just ‘ill’. A friend of hers came into the room and stood beside her holding her shoulders from the side, supporting her as she coughed.

What could I do? I’m an engineer who formerly specialised in road maintenance and concrete construction – she didn’t seem to need either of those specialities just then. I couldn’t do anything, but feel out of place. I left the room. This was a private moment for them, and I wasn’t helping by being there.

There were and continue to be so many like her – six hundred in the Dispensary itself (although in varying states of illness) and literally thousands of others throughout Uzbekistan. All of these TB patients were the victims of not only the infection, but also of the health system that was not just in a state of decline, but near total collapse, where doctors earn as little as ten pounds per month (how could that feed, clothe and warm a family of four?). How could a health system so under funded help the population overcome the spread of this disease?

What could I do for the girl? Nothing, by myself. But the medical staff and the MSF project that I was working on was trying to improve the system of healthcare for TB patients by using the World Health Organisation’s Directly Observed Treatment – Short-Course (DOTS) TB treatment methodology. This was where it struck me how MSF’s work was truly a team effort. I know nothing (or at least very, very little) about treating TB patients. The medical staff knew very little about rehabilitating a TB Dispensary building. But this rehabilitation was one link in the chain, which was improving conditions for the patients and helping lower the incidence of TB. The medical staff were more links in that chain.

I never saw the girl again – perhaps she got better and left, although I kind of doubt that that could happen. This incident made me realise two things. Firstly the total need for someone to help this girl and others like her – MSF are one of the few organisations doing anything here – and secondly the way that MSF missions are based so strongly on teamwork. I guess I also realised a third thing – that I was proud that I was working for an organisation that was trying to make a difference.

Today, Richard is back in Uzbekistan working with another organisation. The TB dispensary is part of a network of State TB facilities supported by MSF. It will be handed over to Uzbek Ministry of Health control by the end of 2003. The MDR-TB programme will start treating patients in the coming months.

If you would like to contact Médecins Sans Frontières, you can e-mail them on: office-ldn@london.msf.org or visit their website:

www.uk.msf.org

Post Script:

Kidnapped: our MSF colleague Arjan Erkel was abducted more than six months ago in Daghestan, Russian Federation. We still do not know what has happened to him. Please sign MSF’s petition to President Putin asking for urgent help to get Arjan released. Click here and pass it on to your friends:

Largest countries in the world

Rank Country Area (square kilometers)

  1. Russia (17,075,400)
  2. Canada (9,976,140)
  3. United States (9,629,091)
  4. China (9,596,960)
  5. Brazil (8,511,965)
  6. Australia (7,686,850)
  7. India (3,287,590)
  8. Argentina (2,776,890)
  9. Kazakhstan (2,717,306)
  10. Sudan (2,505,810)

An Introduction to Sulawesi by Alam

Dear Reader

Please let me introduce my country, Indonesia to you. I am a native born Indonesian and have lived here all my life. My life is very simple: I live in the suburbs, in a small village, Makassar, in South Sulawesi. I am working in tourism. My parents work as subsistence farmers. I would like to relate a little information about the area in which I live. This gives me the opportunity not only to practice my English, but also to become more self reliant and learn from others.

First, I would like to change the views of anyone who thinks that Indonesia is dangerous to visit. Be assured that the real problems that exist here are internal and are related to the way our government works. The people of Indonesia are peaceful and are as shocked by the recent Bali bombing as the rest of the world, and want no part of this global terrorism.

Secondly, I want to make one thing very clear, that Indonesia is a very beautiful country and is an interesting place to visit and far different to the media’s view of terrorism and danger. On behalf of all of my people, I would like to stress: INDONESIA IS PEACE LOVING AND FROWNS ON ALL VIOLENCE.

Most people coming to Indonesia know only Bali, which is a great shame as Indonesia is an archipelago consisting of 17,000 islands in 27 Provinces, and one of them is SULAWESI. Sulawesi, formerly known as CELEBES has a total land area of about 227,000 square Kilometers and is divided in to four areas or provinces : south, central, northeast and the north, with a total population of over 10 million people.

Sulawesi is home to an amazing variety of people. The majority are fisherman, catching flying fish, shark, tuna, mackerel, squid, as well as other fish. We have farmers who grow wet and dry rice, maize, tapioca, sago, vegetable, coffee, cacoa and cloves. There are numerous small groups of upland people who practice slash and burn agriculture in the interior of Sulawesi. Unemployment is a big problem in my country.

Sulawesi is full of rich and varied cultures and traditions, languages and religious beliefs practiced by several ethnic groups such as: Makassar, Bugis, Mandar, Pamona, Tolaki, Manadoi and the Hulontalo. There are many religions, including Islam, Christianity, Budhism, Hinduism, Confucianism and Animism. The Animism beliefs until now can mainly be found in Torajaland or Tana toraja, an upland area of southern Sulawesi. Here the religion’s belief has a special name in the local language called “Aluk Todolo.” Aluk mean :rules or belief and Todolo means: Ancestor. According to this teaching, human beings in the world have only two problems that are opposites, for example: ” lose or benefit”, and “happiness or sadness”. This philosophy has been manifested into their ceremonies and they have two kinds of ceremony: Thanks Giving Ceremony and Funeral ceremony. The Funeral Ceremony is very sacred because according to the Animists, Death is the end of life.

If you come and visit tana toraja in Sulawesi, you can see many houses in the village, and the owners put the body of their loved ones in a coffin in a room and consider them as sick person before they died, until a funeral is held although this maybe as many as 10 or 20 years have passed from the date of actual death.

After the funeral is held, the family take the coffin to a cave in a mountain for burial. The cave can also function as a house. Their philosophy is that ” Death is an event that changes from the real world to the unreal world”.

I hope from this small article you can get a feel for how remarkable Sulawesi is. Although it is my home, I believe it is quite special. If you are planning a trip to Indonesia, do please come and visit Sulawesi, and do not hesitate to contact me for information about tours and personal itineraries. I would be very happy to share my knowledge with you and help to show you around.

For more information, please visit my simple website: http//www.alamnusantaratour.ch

Please be assured that our traditions of warmth, trustworthiness and memorable hospitality make an enduring memory for our guests.

Syamsu Alam (Alam)

Tel/Fax. (062)411-553927

E-mail alamnusantara@hotmail.com

Website: www.alamnusantaratour.ch

Volunteer Corner

Puerto Maldonado, Peru: The Piedras Biodiversity Center (affiliated with Tambopata Expeditions) is looking for for 2 volunteers to help out with an amphibian survey scheduled for November/December of this year. The project will last about 6 weeks, and the work will be “quite adventurous,” involving the night-time collection of various frogs and toads in swamps and streams. Previous experience is helpful but not necessary, and all volunteers will be trained. This is a great way to get into the jungle while helping a worthwhile project. It is also easy on the pocketbook! If this sounds like the project for you, please email Tambopata Expeditions at info@tambopataexpeditions.com and visit their website at www.tambopataexpeditions.com

Did you miss out on a Gap Year when you were 18 and are considering making up for it now? Have you always wanted to be a TV star ? The BBC have asked us to help find a number of mature (30 +) people who are wanting to volunteer abroad and star in a documentary. The programme will show how the various volunteers cope with the planning and the assignment itself. It will focus on how they are affected by the experience.

So if you have always wanted to volunteer abroad and be a TV star, get in touch with us, Muir’s Tours now. We provide a wide range of support to various communities in Asia, Africa and the Americas. If you want to be one of the 8 BBC stars you need to be free to travel abroad during the period December to March. The ideal candidates will be:

  • over 30
  • self-financing, or at least have a healthy budget
  • planning to travel alone
  • planning to leave in late 2003 / early 2004.

Get some ideas from our list of placements and then we put you in touch with the Beeb. See http://www.nkf-mt.org.uk/volunteer.html

How to Visit the Taj Mahal

The Taj Mahal is situated in Agra in the Indian state of Uttar Pradesh. It was built by the Moghul Emperor, Shah Jahan in memory of his wife Mumtaz Mahal and is the 7th wonder of the world. It’s worth noting that the Taj Mahal is closed to visitors on Mondays.

There are three ways you can reach the Taj Mahal from Delhi. You can fly with Indian Airlines from Delhi to Agra. The airport, Kheria, is about 6km from Agra and can be reached at fixed rates by taxis (Rs 75) and auto-rickshaws (Rs 50).

There are several trains that connect Delhi with Agra. These include the Shatabdi Express which takes 2 hours, or the Taj Express 2 ½ hours or the Intercity Express which takes 3 hrs. The third option is to travel by car from Delhi to Agra. There are express bus services (a/c and non-a/c) are available from Delhi, Jaipur, Lucknow, Gwalior, and Jhansi. Distances to Agra from the following are as follows:

Mathura – 58 kms Bharatpur – 60 kms Gwalior – 118 kms Delhi – 203 kms Jaipur – 236 kms Khajuraho – 393 kms

Travel Quiz

Win a Frommer’s guidebook on Spain 2003. See www.frommers.com for info on Frommer’s guidebooks.

Some people have said the quiz is difficult, we say do some research; try google.com or Ask Jeeves, if you need help with the answers.

The winner of last month's Frommer’s guide is Pippa Manley.

1. Which city is older – Barcelona or Madrid?

2. Which city hosts the annual bull running Fiesta de San Fermin?

3. The Mezquite is in which Spanish city?

4. Which museum in Bilbao was designed by American architect Frank Gehry?

5. What would you do with Tapas – eat it or drink it?

Your Name:

Your e-mail address:

Anglo- Paraguayan Friendship Society

Globetrotters Tony wrote in to tell us about the Anglo-Paraguayan Friendship Society he belongs to. He says that they hold some very enjoyable social events throughout the year. If anyone is interested in attending, they can contact Lotte Pigram, Anglo-Paraguayan Society, 93 Kingsfield Rd, Watford, Herts WD19 4TP, tel: 01923-246274 or e-mail Lotte on: lottepigram@hotmail.com

Mac’s Jottings: Japan

U. S. Soldiers Home, Washington: during a century of travel (well 78 years!) both in and out of service I have travelled to over 150 countries (I count both North and South Dakota as countries) and for some reason have jotted signs and happenings that I thought funny at the time (and now wonder why). So here is the perfect opportunity to share some of my anecdotes.

In Japan, often near railroad stations, they have what they call Capsule Hotels. They are like train berths one on top of the other or some refer to them as coffins. Businessmen after a night at the bars and who miss their trains home often stay in them. They even have a very small TV set in the bunk with you and a telephone. If you can’t find a place elsewhere then you look for a capsule hotel. I stayed in several. One had a sign at the entrance. No elevator. No Cooking. No tattoos (they associate tattoos with criminals and Cher.) No dead drunks. One time the bunk over me was not occupied and for some strange reason I left my money on the bunk overhead like it was a shelf. When I returned that night the manager handed me the money. I guess he knew only a foolish foreigner would do that. One time I went into a coffee shop near train station in Ueno section of Tokyo and when I left I left my backpack at the stool. I went to downtown Tokyo before discovering my backpack was missing. I thought maybe it got pulled off in the crowded subway. There are thousands of coffee shops in Ueno and I did not know if I could remember which one I was in. I went into one and the manager held up my backpack as if he had been holding it all day waiting for my return. The Japanese are just incredibly honest. More about capsule hotels later.

One way to cut down on expenses in Japan is to use the many vending machines found on streets everywhere. Food etc is cheaper there. Coffee in YMCA was $4 a cup. In the machines, $1.10. In McDonalds $1.80 a cup. Beer can cost you $6.00 in a bar but in vending machines outside $2.90 or less. They even sell whisky in vending machines on the street. I don’t know how they keep children from buying whisky from the vending machines. Japan has clear plastic umbrellas you can see thorough so you won’t run into people and spike them. Stores have stands outside to place your wet umbrella and not take into store.

A Japanese man that looked older than me stopped me on the street in Tokyo one time evidently to try out his English and said to me. “My, you look old. Are you tired? It turned out he was older than me and had been a Japanese fighter pilot in WWII with he said 303 missions. (I suspect I heard wrong.) His English was not too good. For some reason he told me he did not like Italians. He sang a bit of song Coming thru the Rye and asked me if I knew the name of that song. He laughed when he heard my military background and saluted me and then scooted away. I would have liked to have found out more about him like did he bomb Pearl Harbour. It was a most strange encounter. About as strange as these notes.

The honour of inventing the useful rickshaw falls to an American missionary in Japan who designed one for his invalid wife. The Japanese appropriated the idea and then the Chinese.

I one time was on a train in Japan and some Indian congressmen asked me if I would have lunch with them in a week as they were invited to the States. Before I met with them, I read up books about our Congress, how many how chosen etc so I would not look like a dummy. The first question they asked me is: “What is pie a la mode?” (It is pie with ice cream on top if asked.) They then asked about tipping which they were not used to in Japan. I did not tell them I went to places where tipping is not required Ha! I have met particularly Australians that have worked while travelling. I met an Irishman that got a job as extra in Japanese movies where they needed a Caucasian face in background checking into hotel, airport etc. He talked me into taking such a job. Military Intelligence found out about it and suggested I not do this as the studio Nichikecki (or something), sometimes slanted their picture anti American and I might not know from scene I was in. There went my movie career. I could have been a star. I met an Australian temporarily tending bar in US Military Sanno Hotel. Some try jobs that do not take away jobs from locals. Like big firms hiring foreigners for practice in conversational English. I met some Japanese that had had British teachers. I had to smile when I heard them talking with a Japanese accent. I don’t know if your Embassies would know of trade shows or possibilities for temporary work that did not take away jobs from others or not. They hired a Japanese to teach my Irish friend some Japanese He got more pay if he spoke a few words. We think of Japan as having high class films but they also make a lot of cheap films. One day my friend was playing the part of a reporter in front of Judge’s stand. The Japanese actor Judge did not show up the next day so my Irish friend was promoted to Judge in same movie.

Next month, Mac discusses India.

If you would like to contact Mac, he can be e-mailed on: macsan400@yahoo.com

Tourists Kidnapped in Colombia

Police in Colombia say that eight foreign tourists have been kidnapped as they hiked near the Caribbean coast where a so-called Lost City (Ciudad Perdida) sits in the jungle built by an indigenous civilisation 500 B.C. One British tourist has managed to escape, the remaining seven tourists are from Israel, the UK, Germany and Spain. Thousands of troops have been mobilised to search for them in the high mountains of the Sierra Nevada, 750 kilometres (465 miles) north of the capital, Bogotá. Most of Colombia's 3,000-odd kidnappings every year – that is one every four hours – are carried out by FARC (Latin America's biggest guerrilla group with 17,000 fighters) who use the ransom to fund their 39-year war on the state.

Bangkok’s Homeless Removed

The Thai authorities have announced their intention to clear Bangkok’s streets of thousands of homeless people ahead of a meeting of world leaders next month.

Where will they go? The Thai Prime Minister and officials have said that some would be sent for vocational training at army camps or shelters, and those suffering from psychiatric disorders would be taken to hospital.

But the Beetle noticed a discrepancy in what is being reported: “Arrested immigrant beggars will be deported, prostitutes will be sent to rehabilitation centres and insane homeless will be sent to mental hospitals,” said Prime Minister Thaksin Shinawatra.

“There are no excuses for being a vagabond,” Bangkok’s Governor told The Bangkok Post. “Everybody must have a place to live.”

Give them a chance to go back home first, then put (the rest) together in one place and feed them from the state budget like my previous operation against street dogs,” Mr Samak was quoted as saying by The Nation.