This is the first in a series of trip reports sent to the
Beetle by Globetrotter Steve who is travelling around
South America and Easter Island, the lucky chap! So,
if you are planning trip to South America or are
interested in knowing more about it, you may find
Steve’s trip reports of interest.
The bus to La Serena was comfortable and the road a paved
dual carriageway so the journey wasn’t bad. The
countryside became slowly drier. Near Santiago
roadside stalls were selling bags of oranges, lemons and
avocados which looked very colourful. Nearer La
Serena the countryside was very dry and the stalls were
selling goat cheese.
La Serena is Chile’s second oldest city. It’s
quite a small place with lots of old stone churches. They
often have towers or spires that don’t match the
rest of the building, a consequence of earthquakes I
imagine. A mile away is a big sandy bay developing as a
sea side resort with high rise buildings but it isn't
the season so the beach is empty.
The weather has been cloudy and cool with a cold breeze
from the sea. Yesterday I caught a local bus up the Elqui
Valley to Pisco Elqui. The valley floor was covered with
irrigated vineyards with the vines supported on a lattice
of steel wires to keep the grapes about six foot above the
ground. The leaves are fresh and green at the moment as
they are just starting to grow after Winter. The steep
valley sides were bare rock rising to rugged mountains.
There was little vegetation and you could see the strata
in the rock faces.
At Pisco Elqui the distillery was closed to visitors so I
wandered round, had a lunch and caught the bus back. It
filled with school children and agricultural labourers
going home and I was a bit of a curiosity. Tomorrow
I fly to Arica and then head for the altiplano.
Three days in Arica! It is the most Northern town in Chile
and is surrounded by the Atacama Desert where it never
rains. The driest place on earth.
The flight here went smoothly. After leaving La Serena I
had to change in Santiago, which meant backtracking a
bit. The Santiago – Arica flight called in at
Iquique on the way here which made it quite a long
flight. I had a window seat on the right side which
meant I had views of the snow-capped Andes all the way
here. On the left was the Pacific, and beneath for
most of the journey was desert with occasional green
valleys in the early stages of the journey. When the
plane landed at Iquique I realised my reading glasses were
missing. I’d worn them to look at the
newspaper earlier in the flight but they had
disappeared. I started to panic when they
couldn’t be found but then they were recovered from
about four rows in front. They had slid off the seat
during the landing. It acted as an icebreaker as a
group of elderly Chileans bound for Arica on holiday (The
city of Permanent Spring) started to joke and chat, which
was fun.
The next day in Arica, being a Sunday, everything was
closed except the archaeological museum where they had an
excellent display including four Chinchero mummies, the
oldest ones ever found in the world. The dry conditions
have also preserved textiles buried in graves and they are
some of the oldest existing textiles in the world –
knitting, weaving, braids and knotted items. It’s
remarkable how skilful they were.
Today, Monday, turns out to be a Bank Holiday so again
nothing is open. Am I ever going to be able to leave here?
Having seen most things in town I’ve had time at the
beach. It’s warm and sunny in the afternoon although
mornings have been cool and overcast.
Arica has a lot of soldiers who stroll round town all the
time in desert combat gear. If I find an army surplus
store I want a pair of their desert boots. It also has a
large harbour. The fishmeal plant has closed, which is a
blessing, and there are several large rusting trawlers
berthed at the edge of the town. When I went to the
harbour there was a flock of pelicans snatching up the
waste from the stalls were fish was being cleaned and in
the sea were several marine mammals looking very like
large sea lions, perhaps walrus. When I walked to the
beach there were fish leaping in the sea. They weren't
flying fish, more like mackerel, but they jumped clean out
of the water. I think something below the waves was having
a good feeding session.