Mtwara (pop:approx.100,000) is the nearest town to Mikindani, in South eastern Tanzania. It is the administrative centre of the region, was the southern ‘capital’ in Colonial times and serves as the springboard for travel south into Mozambique. It can be reached by air from Dar es Salaam to Mtwara’s own airport, by sea from Dar es Salaam on the MV Santorini or by road from north, south and west. The approach to Mtwara from Mikindani undulates along a stretch of rural country that eventually goes up a long gradual hill. Along the metalled road are the saltpans, and behind them on the right hand side is a large coconut plantation. Just before the hill begins is the turning off to the right, which takes you to the airport, and the road to the Ruvuma River & Mozambique border.
As the road goes up the hill towards Mtwara it runs along an escarpment – great view over the countryside from there – and comes to a roundabout with a monument to the Mwenge or National Torch. If you turn left you approach Ligula Hospital, built with British money in the early 1960s – turn right and it takes you to the market area (more of that later). Straight on and on the right you pass a large open area called the Showground, which seems to be both the local militia training ground and the HGV driving school site. Both activities have been seen there – the militia several times per week. A rag taggle lot of men, women and some no more that children but given a panga each, they would probably not be good to meet! I think that basic training started at about two months ago and they have progressed to the slow march – they seem to spend a lot of time on that activity. The whole platoon was seen setting off to jog down the main road towards Mikindani – some had dropped out by the time they reached the roundabout! At this point the road goes down a long straight dusty hill with acacia trees either side plus an occasional mango tree, and occasional office buildings such as the Tanzanian Revenue Authority, the local government departments, the Air Tanzania local office and Tanesco offices. 2 storeys seems to be the maximum here so nothing too big.
If you continue to the end you come to a T-junction. Opposite is the Catholic church we went to for Joyce’s wedding, turn right and it takes you to the Port from where the MV Santorini departs to Dar es Salaam – turn left and you get to Shangani – the up market part of the town where the wealthy residents live and many of the NGO’s have their offices there too. Shangani also boasts a good swimming beach. But before you get that far there are several streets on either side – none of which have good surfaces. Immediately any expected notion of being in a regional capital is dashed. One is supposed to be a metal road but the surface is dreadful, and there are 3 of the most vicious ‘sleeping policemen’ you could ever imagine. The rest are just mud/sand/dust road surfaces (depending on the season). Driving along the main shopping street feels more like being at sea it is so undulating both backwards and forwards and side to side! Nothing at all is spent on roads. Mtwara is in 2 parts really – the older part being around the tiny Aga Khan Park, mostly built in the 1950’s & 60’s.
The main shopping street in the Aga Khan Park area is mostly Indian shops – with strings of (very old and dry) mango leaves strung across the door for good luck. There is the ‘off licence’, the shop where all the Landrover spares come from that also sells hardware and bottled gas, there is another shop that sells all sorts of imported food Cornflakes, Alpen, Heinz tomato ketchup etc.
A little further on, in the Chiko Ngola area, is the market and the Bus station. Just before you turn into the main street that leads to the market there is a crossroads. On one corner there is a huge Coca Cola bottle, which marks a drinks kiosk! On the opposite corner there is a patch of open ground in front of the Mtwara football ground. On this patch of ground the cashew nut co-operative hangs out – waiting for buyers to approach them. The nuts are sold in 1 kg or ½ kg packs. It is worth pulling up the Landrover on the corner just to see the sight of the most competitive co-operative saleswomen – they are really aggressive and rush over thrusting packs of nuts into the window of the vehicle and pushing each other out of the way! So much for being a co-operative!
Another feature of Mtwara, in common with many towns and villages throughout Tanzania, is the imaginative use of old shipping containers. These are converted into shops, offices, hairdressing salons and bars. They are fitted out with electricity and some are painted with a brick effect design on the front. Mtwara reminds me a little of an American West town, sort of neglected, dusty and rather chaotic. The fuel station that we use is on one of the worst roads – and each time I have been there I have to wait for herds of cattle to be driven along the road before I can leave! It looks just like an American cattle drive! On one occasion there was also a flock of Guinea fowl wandering along the road. You are likely to find very free ranging chickens, goats and cattle wandering around all the streets – with no apparent ownership. It has been known to meet any of these in the Bank car park.
One of the guide books refers to an ‘endearingly time-warped atmosphere’. This Mtwara certainly has despite it trying to portray an air of activity and modern commercialism. There is something very appealing about it!
For more information on the work carried out by Trade Aid in Tanzania, see their websitewww.mikindani.com