Category Archives: enewsletter

Tribute to Thor Heyerdahl

When the Beetle was a very small Beetle one of the first books about travel she read was by Thor Heyerdahl, the world-renowned explorer and archaeologist. He must have fired the imaginations of millions with his exploits, trying to recreate the journeys of people from past times.

He was born in 1914, in Larvik, Norway and from his earliest days, he was an enthusiastic nature lover, and became a voracious explorer. His first expedition was to Polynesia in 1937-1938 when he was studying the origins of the island's life, that he became convinced that human settlers had come with the ocean currents from the west just as the flora and fauna had done. In 1947 he decided to build a replica of the aboriginal balsa raft (named the “Kon-Tiki”) to test his theories. In 1947, Heyerdahl and five companions left Callio, Peru and crossed 8000 km (4300 miles) in 101 days to reach Polynesia (Raroia atoll, Tuamotu Archipelago). Thor Heyerdahl managed to demonstrate that the ancient Peruvians could have reached Polynesia in this way.

Following the success of the Kon-Tiki Expedition, in 1952, Heyerdahl organized and led the Norwegian Archaeological Expedition to the Galapagos Islands, where it was demonstrated that once again, the people of South America had the means to travel much further than archaeologists had previously believed. In 1949, he continued his research on ancient navigation and turned his attention to the ancient reed-boats made of papyrus. These boats were deemed insufficient to cross the Atlantic as the reeds were believed to become water-logged after less than two weeks on open water.

Heyerdahl believed that contemporary science underestimated the ancient vessels and undertook to prove this by experiment. In 1969, he bought 12 tons of papyrus and worked with experts to construct an ancient-style vessel. The result was a 15 m boat which was launched at the old Phoenician port of Safi, Morocco. In the spirit of cooperation, Heyerdahl embarked under the UN flag with a crew of seven men from seven countries. The papyrus craft, Ra, sailed 5000 km (2700 nautical miles) in 56 days until storms and deficiencies in the construction caused the team to abandon their target only one week short of Barbados.

Thor Heyerdahl died in June of this year, aged 88.



Notes on Ecuador by Ken Williams

About Ecuador – the country is the poorest in South America where the average salary is $90 per month. As with all countries, there are many people well off. It is possible to find a very nice hotel for $10 per night with breakfast or stay for hundreds; the Hilton is there. Climate wise, it has it all and no change of seasons being on the Equator, hence Ecuador. Very warm beaches, cool mountains and jungles. All is available via plane and excellent buses. Read up on the lonely planet and Ecuador.

Quito has the second oldest University in the Americas, Lima Peru being the first. Look up the hostel Maple on the web and stay in this part of Quito. There are many such places for $10 to $15/night. You will meet many fellow backpackers and can hook-up with them if alone. Lots of cafes to use the web and make calls home. If you want to take Spanish lessons you can stay with a family or just get private lessons at the numerous schools for a few dollars per hour. Art is wonderful, so bring back many items. The Inca people make their own paints and paint on leather not canvas. Stop them while having coffee on the street and haggle with them before buying to get to know them a little. They will have their special outfits and hats and usually a man and wife. They have to be the sweetest people on the earth. If you do not wish to return to Quito usually via plane because of time or go on to the Galapagos just keep heading south to Peru.

I was warned about Guayaquil's problems with muggings, plus it is hot and muggy-pon. There are several national parks and will take you to the top of the world with their many volcanoes or to the jungles. The people known for shrinking heads and dangling them from their waists come from these jungles. They are still very primitive but now give tours into their jungles. Roast monkey is still their meal of choice. Quito has many expedition companies to all these places.

Then hop a bus south and visit many of the antique Spanish towns, more state parks and spas. The only fairly good road is the Pan-Am highway. I had an Inca guide with horses and went into the Andes. The trails are so steep that without the horses could not have returned. The other roads along steep mountain gorges are very interesting. For $15 a day you can stay at mineral spring spas near Quenca and purify your body with organic foods, drinks, body washes/oils and massages. But, I go for the history and the Inca people. Go to the Indian markets; they are fascinating.

The Inca's meal of choice is deep fried hamster and hedgehog. Inca people are very shy and non-violent. Their civilization was the largest in the world prior to the industrial revolution. Then came the Spanish with small pox, venereal disease, TB, and slavery.

The biggest problem in the world is safe drinking water. I only drink bottled water. But, in Ecuador the locals water down certain juices, and South American fruits are wonderful. They are supposed to use water that is boiled, but hotels may have new help, thus ones ends up with G.I problems of a major magnitude. Get antibiotic Rx immediately. Medical help was excellent and very reasonable in the major cities such as Quito and Quenca; the doctors came immediately to my hostel and there are pharmacies everywhere. Luckily, I always carry 3 cans of those high calorie vitamin drinks and can be purchased in pharmacies; I prefer chocolate flavour, and these helped me through my toughest period of the illness, when I could barely get out of bed to get something to eat. These nutritional canned drinks were also useful on long bus journeys there, when sanitary food was not available. You also may want to carry a better quality toilet paper; it seems the paper in some countries resembles double 0 sandpaper.


Fave Websites of the Month

One for backpackers! BUG – the Backpackers Ultimate Guide – is a comprehensive network of websites that include forums, an online ride sharing service and extensive destination guides to Australia, New Zealand and Europe that include transport information and over a thousand independent hostel reviews. You can find the home page at bug.bz, or go straight to the ride sharing service at bugride.com . The destination guides to Australia, New Zealand & the Pacific and Europe can be found at bugaustralia.com, bugpacific.com and bugeurope.com .

BUG also publishes an email newsletter every two weeks that contains travel news, an overview of upcoming festivals and information on updates to the BUG websites.



How to Learn Another Language Quickly! by Eric Dondero R.

Learning another language is not an easy task. However, there are shortcuts and even a few tricks that can be employed to make the job a little easier. Over the years I have learned over 20 languages. I have also learned survival skills for another 20 or so. I learned my first – second language, the hard way. I have learned all the others using accelerated learning methods, many developed by others, and some by myself.

My own language learning journey started with Spanish. I picked up some survival skills in the language as a sailor in the Navy after port calls in Spain, Puerto Rico, and the Philippines. Afterwards, when I attended college I took some Spanish courses as electives. This brought me to a basic level. But I desperately wanted to go all the way.

What followed were several years of difficult yet self-determined study. This included: studying the same textbooks over and over, memorizing textbook glossaries, countless hours listening to language tapes in the car, lots of Salsa, Tejano, and Latin Pop music, Mexican radio and television, and most importantly, frequent trips to the border.

Even after 6 to 8 years of study, I had only reached the advanced level. Finally, I headed to Mexico for 3 months to teach English at a well-known college in Tampico. This extended period of total immersion in a Spanish-speaking environment pushed me over the top to full fluency. Reaching the top and becoming totally fluent was a tremendous achievement. It felt truly wonderful. I would encourage anyone to follow the same path. But the amount of effort and time I invested for fluency in Spanish was enormous.

I did not learn my other languages in the same manner. Before I ventured into learning other languages I invested some time reading books on language learning methods, accelerated learning, advanced study techniques, and brain development. For my next language – Italian – I cut the language learning time in half. For French and Portuguese I cut the time it took me to learn Italian by half. Since then, I've been able to learn other major world languages to a medium level of fluency in about a year.

So, what are the tricks?

Build Your Vocabulary – There is a core group of about 50 to 100 essential words in any language that should be mastered right away. These words include prepositions, question words, a few adjectives, and some selected nouns. Learn these words and many other words can be understood eventually through context.

Memorize Vocabulary Words – Word lists should be memorized and then reviewed many times over. Saying the new words out loud, rather than just reading them silently, helps greatly. Word association, imagining an equivalent word in your native language, can also be helpful. Flash cards might seem a little low tech but they are quite effective tools for this. Even Post-it Notes placed on household items with the vocabulary word listed can help. To gain maximum retention the vocabulary list should be reviewed daily for a week or two and then again weekly for at least 4 to 5 weeks.

Always Read Aloud! – Don't just read new phrases and vocabulary silently to yourself. Read aloud. Studies show that this helps you retain new vocabulary at a much faster rate, plus it helps with pronunciation.

Don't get Bogged Down by Grammar – Let's be honest. Grammar is a dry subject. It can be an absolute incentive killer. So, just start out with a brief overview of prepositions, definite and indefinite articles, singulars and plurals, adjectives, and most importantly, pronouns. Put off learning conjugation for verb tenses for later on. Just learn enough grammar at the start to get you by. If you make mistakes no big deal. Native speakers can understand what you are saying 90% of the time through context.

Study Phrase Books – Always carry a phrase book with you for the targeted language you are learning. Study it at every opportunity including standing in line at a grocery store, waiting on a train or bus, over your morning cup of coffee, or while relaxing in the yard.

Immersion – Look for every opportunity imaginable to use your languages skills. The best way of course, is to physically go to the actual country where your target language is spoken. I cannot stress enough how critical an element this is. Even if it's for a very short time. Look for any excuse to travel to the country where your targeted language is spoken. The next best thing is to visit an area in your city or town where the language is spoken. Hang out at cafes, libraries, malls, bars, and other locations and engage foreign language speakers with simple conversation. Make friends with native speakers. Invite them over for dinner or a few drinks. Tell them that you want them to speak to you only in their native language. Date a native speaker. The absolute best way to immerse yourself quickly is to find a boyfriend or girlfriend who speaks the native language you are trying to learn.

Watch Television and Movies for Your Targeted Language – These days television stations are available in a whole range of languages over satellite and on cable. Watch them for an hour or two every day and try to pick out familiar words and phrases. Additionally, try to mimic the tone and accent of the speakers. Go to the local video store and rent movies for your targeted language. Have a 2-hour review session of vocabulary before you watch the movie. It's even better to watch them more than once.

Listen to Music for Your Targeted Language – Give your native music a rest for a short while and experiment with some music from the country of your targeted language. Many of the national bookstore and CD chains now have excellent World Music sections. Listen to stations and programs on radio for your targeted language. You can tune in to some of these stations on-line.

Listen to Language Tapes! – Purchase some language learning tapes and listen to them as often as possible. First read the accompanying booklet to get a feel for the vocabulary and grammar. Then, listen to the tapes while relaxing at home, while driving to work, on a Walkman when jogging or while working out, and even while in the shower. Be a maniac with the tapes. Don't just listen to the tapes in your easy chair or in your car once a day. Listen to them around the clock. You need to listen to the tapes about 15 or 20 times before they really start to sink in.

Take Computer Language Courses – Whether on-line or a software program, computer language courses provide good visualization for learning vocabulary words.

Immerse yourself in the language learning experience and you will learn much more quickly.

Eric Dondero is a Certified Language Instructor and Interpreter in Houston, Texas. He speaks over 20 languages. He is the author of “Worldwide Multilingual Phrase Book.” Further language learning tips, a Free Quick Spanish Lesson and a Crash Course in Chinese are available at his web site at www.portsidelanguages


Tax Free Shopping in New York

In an attempt to boost the city's flagging post-11 September economy, the mayor of New York City, Michael Bloomberg, has declared tax-free shopping days for people who shop downtown, where businesses have been hardest hit. A new study – requested by New York members of the US Congress – has found that the 11 September attacks cost the city $83 bn. Mr Bloomberg announced nine days of tax-free shopping over the next three months. “From Soho to the Lower East Side, from Chinatown to Battery Park City, I encourage you to spend your money – tax free,” said Mr Bloomberg.

The first tax-free stretch of three days will start on Sunday, to be followed by further three-day tax holidays in July and August.

Whatever people – tourists or residents – buy in shops and restaurants in Lower Manhattan will be free of the 8.25% sales tax, so long as purchases exceed $500 in value.



Volunteer Work in Africa

The International HUMANA People to People movement is currently running over 150 humanitarian projects in Africa, Asia & Central America, working in fields such as: basic health care, pre-school and primary school education, child care, vocational training, teacher training, environment and community development, AIDS, etc. So far, more than 6000 Development Instructors (our word for volunteer) have participated in starting up and running these projects.

For the successful continuation of our work we are always looking for people, who would like to participate in the program.

The program is open to everybody, regardless of educational background, experiences and nationality. Minimum age is 18 years. It consists of 3 periods – training & preparation period in one of our Travelling Folk High Schools, the working period in a Humana project, a follow up period (evaluation & information work in Europe / USA). Through out the whole program, the Development Instructors are part of an international team.

TCE (Total Control of the Epidemic) is a Humana People to People award winning program to fight AIDS in Southern Africa. In its conception it is based on the experiences of more than 20 years of development work in and with the communities of the region.

HIV/AIDS in Southern Africa is out of control. 26 million people in this area are HIV positive, 10 million children have already lost one or both parents to AIDS. A situation that can only be managed in a great act of international solidarity. In Botswana between 35 and 40 percent of people in the sexually active age group are infected, the highest rate in the world today. TCE (TCM) has been adopted by the government of the country to fight against the epidemic. The results so far are promising, and more and more countries in the region have become interested.

On the subject of costs, we rely on contributions from the volunteers – for food, accommodation, etc. during the preparation period. Visas, flights and vaccinations are paid half by Humana, half by the participants. Scholarship programs are available. Whilst in Africa, Humana pays food, accommodation and pocket money.

We need volunteers, people with good will, hearts, souls and a lot of energy to take part in the fight against AIDS in Africa. If you think you can help, please contact Henner Rödiger on henner@volunteerwork.org or call on 0045 24 42 41 32.


Travel Tips

If you have a mobile phone that works overseas, it's not a bad idea to take it, even if you have no intention of using it for phone calls. In case of emergencies, you can use it to send SMS text messages.

Got any travel tips for the Beetle? Then e-mail them to: the Beetle



Aung San Suu Kyi freed

Burma's military government has released the pro-democracy leader, Aung San Suu Kyi, who has been under house arrest in Rangoon for the past 20 months. A government spokesman told the Reuters news agency she was “at liberty to carry out all activities, including her party's” from Monday 6th May.

Aung San Suu Kyi has not had an easy time in her native country, Burma. She is the daughter of assassinated independence hero Aung San, and was held under house arrest from 1989 to 1995. She was placed back under house arrest in 2000 when she tried to travel by train to Mandalay in defiance of restrictions put on her. As a result of this, and Burma's human rights record, Burma has faced international isolation and economic sanctions. Aung San Suu Kyi returned to Burma to nurse her dying mother in 1988 and in 1990 her party was elected to power, but this was ignored by the ruling army. In 1991, she was awarded the Nobel Prize for Peace. She was not allowed to return to Oxford, England, where her husband, an Oxford don was dying of prostrate cancer as she knew that she would not be allowed to re-enter the country.

If anyone would like to read more about Burma and what has been happening, the Beetle recommends reading a fantastic book by a Burmese writer called Pascal Khoo Thwe, From the Land of Green Ghosts – A Burmese Odyssey, published by Harper Collins. It is an amazing read – see www.fireandwater.com for details.


Hotmail to charge!

As all travellers know, accessing home e-mails from a free service such as Yahoo or Hotmail is fantastically useful, especially for those long trips away.

From 16 July, Hotmail will end the free service that makes it possible to check e-mail accounts held with net service providers via its website. There are apparently around 110 million Hotmail users who before now have managed all their e-mail accounts via the site. Earlier this year, Hotmail rivals Yahoo and Lycos introduced charges for similar services. Anyone wanting to check other accounts, so called POP mail, will have to sign up for the MSN Extra Storage service which, in the UK, costs £19.95 per year. In addition to getting access to the POP mail service, those signing up for Extra Storage get 10 megabytes of space that lets them get and send larger attachments and ensures that their account stays live even if they stop using it for 30 days. Many net experts see the charging of fees for once free services as an inevitable part of the web's development.

Many companies with websites are looking for new ways to offset the cost of running their net business now that revenue from advertising is harder to come by and investor funds are scarce.

Anyone wanting to still use a free POP mail service can find a comprehensive list at emailaddresses.com.



Angkor Afloat By David Fuller

Sunrise. A paw-paw coloured ball makes the sky smoky mauve and the tiny clouds burnt pink. The land and sea are the same temperature. There is no wind. The water is still. This is a place of two skies, the modest orange sun and its paint box sky reflected in the floodwaters of Tonle Sap Lake. The birds are hardly awake, but at the water's edge there is a frenzy.

Most of the tourists here at this time have only one motive, to run the gauntlet of locals selling everything from egg baguettes to anti land mine t-shirts and climb onto the roof of a floating aeroplane fuselage without wings that will blast them across the lake and down the river to Phnom Penh. As they are shepherded past the merchants in their chequered krama they might get the idea that this part of Siem Reap is different from the Angkor temples they have clambered over for the last few days. As the boat engines roar to leave the floating village in its wake, a few photos of an upturned boat in a bamboo dry dock or a saffron robed monk under a black umbrella in a canoe are rattled off.

Thirty minutes south of Siem Reap and Angkor is Tonle Sap Lake. The lake provides not only an antidote to temple fatigue; it also gives extra insight for travellers into the strength and tradition of the Khmer empire. The Tonle Sap monsoon cycles had particular significance within the religion of the ancient Khmer. New Year is celebrated in the spring equinox. In March when the sun rises over Angkor's central tower, the flows begin to fill the Tonle Sap, bringing rich fishing harvests that supported the Khmer. The ancient Bayon and Angkor temples depict in exquisite bas-relief how the life along the lake affected all walks of life.

To ensure access to the lake no matter where the shoreline is, the houses of the fishermen, who depend on the waters for their livelihood, are designed to float on the lake's surface. Chong Khneas provides an excellent opportunity to experience the way these lakeside dwellers live. The village is home to 200 Khmer families, 250 Vietnamese families and another 200 who are Muslim. In the still morning, the call to prayer sounds over loudspeakers scattering dozing cormorants.

Everything floats. Students tie their canoes to the rail alongside the floating school. The campaign headquarters for the local politicians, the barber's shop, the gambling dens and boat builders float. The floating barge markets sell local delicacies like Elephant fish, which has developed the ability to last for several hours out of water, in case the fast receding waters leave it stranded in the mud. The boats hang a sample of their wares on a pole to indicate what they are selling.

For US$ 10 you can get on a boat to putter through the impromptu gaps between houses. The boat moves slowly, a bit too fast to take decent photos, but it feels right to see a floating village this way. You can make up your own mind about getting off the boat at the tourist fish farm to see specially bred catfish, as well as a collared gibbon a caged porcupine and a python around a smiling girl's neck. A few sick looking pelicans are chained in the sun for visitors to photograph here too.

Some of the village can be explored on foot via thin roads that are inches above the waterline so ask your motorbike or car driver to give you some time to walk around. While you are strolling, drop in at the Gecko Environment Centre for further information about the environment, people and culture of the Tonle Sap.

In the wet season the village lies at the base of the only hill for miles, Phenom Krom. Shooting across Tonle Sap on an express boat, the hill is the only landmark above the water level as far as the eye can see, so a climb provides great views back towards Siem Reap and Angkor and over the vast lake. Three weathered ninth century towers dedicated to the Hindu deities, Shiva Vishnu and Shiva await you at the top of your 140-metre climb. From here, as the practicing monks chant their prayers, you understand the ancient relationship between the stone towers of Angkor to the north and the life giving Tonle Sap.

David is trying to combine careers in internet, marketing and travel. Travel Writing and Photography is one of several projects he is currently working on. Information about other projects can be found at www.dmfreedom.com . David can be contacted by email at dave@dmfreedom.com