Hola, mis amigos, here's another instalment of my Peruvian adventure in southern Peru. As I write this I am in La Paz, Bolivia, and the headache I have is directly due to the altitude. When in doubt, blame it on the altitude! It was amazing to arrive in the afternoon yesterday and see the city spread before us in to the crater in which it has grown. So many buildings and so packed in, the mountain of Illimani towering beyond the rim and the slowing more narrow and car clogged streets as we descended into to the melee. Today has been most relaxing, with five letters at the poste restante (muchos graçias Robyn & Peter, Jan, Anne and John Dillon, Mum and Dad), money changed, the new Harry Potter movie to look forward to and lots of interesting things in the streets to see and potentially buy. After this we head to Potosi and the silver mine, to Sucre and its colonial splendour, and then across the salt and mud flats of the Atacama before crossing into Chile for Christmas in San Pedro de Atacama.

So, between Lima and now, we have been travelling pretty well. South of Lima we visited the area near Paracas called the Ballestras Islands (or ´Poor man's Galapagos´). Lots of sea lions, gannets, guanu, and cormorants. There were a few penguins, and a carving into the coast line that has the same time date as the Nazca lines that was very impressive. A good mornings´ outing! Next we camped for a couple of nights near some Inca ruins in Puerta Inca, the original port for Cusco. It is hundreds of miles from the Inca capital and had the most consistently strong pounding waves that I have ever heard. There I felt the earth move…yes, it was an earthquake, about 4 on the Richter scale (as we found out the next day) and the cause of the landslide that delayed our departure by a few hours. Quite exciting really but nice to know that no-one was hurt.

On to Arequipa and the colonial beauty that is being preserved there, along with the mummies found on the peaks of surrounding mountains that date from Inca times and show researchers more about the Inca´s, their life, religion and death. ´Juanita´ is the most famous mummy and it was quite macabre to stand and look at this young girl who died so long ago and which the frozen mountain top has preserved so well. The Santa Catalina Convent was another highlight. I simply could not stop taking photos as around every corner was another lovely vista. It is still a working convent for the enclosed order that has been there since the 1600s. From Arequipa, we crossed the pampas to get to Colca canyon, passing llama, alpaca and vicuña camelids on the way. After a night camped on the rim of the canyon, we waited patiently for the condors to bless up with their presence. One eventually came in response to a badly played rendition of ´El Condor Pasa´, and we all have the photos to prove we have seen one. It was truly magnificent and worth the wait as the one condor that rose on the thermal currents was a real showman and he swooped and glided right at and around us before vanishing into the far blue yonder.

Cusco was the next city of note and there everyone took the chance to relax and roam. I had even more time than most as I had decided not to risk my ankle on the Camino Inca, in order to see Machu Picchu. So an extra couple of days in Cusco, and then the train to Aguas Calientes. Machu Picchu may be further enhanced by having hiked towards it for three days but I still thought that it was magic and did not want to leave even after eight hours. The trip back to Cusco was prolonged due to a landslide, but this was Peru so getting stressed about it was a little pointless. And yes, drinks at the CrossKeys were had! Puno was a bit of a non-event and the boat trip to see the Uros Islands a glorified shopping trip, but Lake Titicaca was in her best garb and looked beautiful. So, here I am in La Paz and have received another letter and am headed back to the hotel to relax after a heavy day shopping and sightseeing. We did not get to see Harry Potter yesterday as it was completely dubbed in Spanish. That‘s life!

Thanks Jacqui and keep us posted! If anyone would like to contact Jacqui, her e-mail is: jacquitrotter@yahoo.com

What have you seen on your travels? Drop a line to the Beetle! the Beetle

The next meeting will be on January 18th at the the Woodsworth Co-op : Ann Dohler will talk about her recent trip to Peru, the Galapagos and the Amazon.

For further information on Ontario meetings, please contact: Svatka Hermanek: shermanek@schulich.yorku.ca or Bruce Weber: tel. 416-203-0911 or Paul Webb: tel. 416-694-8259.

Toronto GT Meetings are held on the third Friday of January, March, May, September and November. Usually at the Woodsworth Co-op, Penthouse, 133, Wilton Street in downtown Toronto at 8.00 p.m.

Globetrotting Kiwis, Christine and Malcolm Clark are a little over 18 months and 8,759 miles into their epic cycling journey, from England to New Zealand. Their trip is entirely self-funded and they are also helping to raise money for the Gray Cancer Institute, a UK based cancer research organization.

Our route took us across France where we received much encouragement from the French, hyped up by the recent Tour de France. Picking up the Danube cycle path, we crossed Germany, Austria, Slovakia and Hungary before leaving the river in Budapest. Romania gave us a warm welcome and throughout our stay we received honest hospitality and friendliness. This was in stark contrast to the warnings we had received before entering the country. Bulgaria was a totally different place to our experiences 13 years previously. The two weeks there provided the opportunity to meet many people and again be on the receiving end of much generosity.

As we made our way through the city walls and down into the backpacker settlement of Sultanahmet, Istanbul, the strains of Crowded House blended in with the calls to prayer and the clink of a cold bottle of beer contrasted with scarf clad ladies scuttling along buying vegetables. The East of Turkey again showed wonderful hospitality but also large packs of marauding dogs. These caused many anxious moments but the Dog Dazer, an electronic device, saved us from any serious maulings. It was with great trepidation that we entered Iran and, for Christine, a whole new way of dressing. With preconceptions of fundamentalism and chador clad women in our minds we found instead a country struggling with its identity: desperate to become more developed with a loathing of America idealism but still coveting the American icons and materialism. However, the people were welcoming and friendly, the hotels clean and the food tasty and hygienic. The dual pricing system of all hotels and tourist attractions was wearying but did not detract from the stunning natural beauty of the country.

It was a great co-incidence to cross into Pakistan on the same day of the first cricket test between Pakistan and New Zealand. There was more ribbing about the test results than any concerns about border formalities. The ride across the Great Sandy Desert of Baluchistan was stunning, isolated and contrary to what most guide books say about the area – safe. With the right frame of mind and appropriate dress code Pakistan is a truly enthralling destination. A detour up the Karakoram Highway to the market town of Kashgar, China turned out to be more complicated than we expected. The events of the 11/09 closed the borders back to Pakistan and we set off across Western Tibet towards the Nepalese border. Crossing passes of over 4,500 metres with temperatures often below freezing, it was the most challenging cycling we had ever done. Nepal however welcomed us with friendly faces and calls of 'Namaste' rang in our ears and we braved the rickshaws and tuk tuks of Thamel to find our hotel. We are watching the events in India and Pakistan carefully before we head down onto the plains.

We are now using our journey to help raise money for a UK based cancer research organisation, the Gray Cancer Institute. For more details please see our website www.kiwisonbikes.net brought to you with the tireless efforts of Guildford based Mike Fisher.

Wow! The Beetle is truly humbled – this is so inspiring! If you would like to contact the Kiwis on Bikes, visit their web site: http://www.kiwisonbikes.net

Libya, sandwiched between Tunisia to the north west, Algeria to the west, Egypt to the east and Niger and Chad to the south is little visited but has a great deal to offer to the traveller: Roman and Greek remains of Leptis Magna and Cyrene, the Sahara desert, Berber fortresses, oases, prehistoric cave paintings, mountains and old towns. To obtain a visa, you must have an invitation from a Libyan which is sent to the Libyan embassy in your country; a travel agent in Libya can usually arrange this. Americans are allowed to enter Libya, but if you have an Israeli stamp in your passport, you will not be granted a visa. Alitalia, Lufthansa, British Airways, Austrian and AirMalta all fly direct to Tripoli. Alternatively, it is possible to take a boat from Malta to Tripoli or fly in to Djerba in neighbouring Tunisia, to the west, and take a shared taxi across the border. Most visitors take the latter routing as it is cheaper.

Arabic is the official language in Libya, but some people in shops and markets speak English and Italian. French is spoken predominantly in the southern regions. If travelling independently, you will be able to get around by shared taxi, which is the usual form of transport. Because of the vast desert in Libya, most places of interest are along the Mediterranean strip or at the edges of the desert. Libya is far richer than its neighbours and has invested in good infrastructure, including roads. The standard of living is comparatively high and the cost of hotels reflects this. It is possible to fly to some of the more distant places. Private tour groups are taken around by private four wheel drive. This trip will take in the best Libya has to offer and can be done either independently or as part of an organised tour.

Arrive at Tripoli, the capital of Libya. The old town dates back to the 4th century: wander around the souk, visit the promenade along the Mediterranean – there are beaches at Tripoli, and get acquainted etc. Spend the night and on Day 2, head west first to Sabratha, 75km west of Tripoli, founded in 9 BC by the Phoenicians and later taken over by the Romans. Sites to see include a fabulously in tact amphitheatre and the temple of Isis, public baths, temples, fountains, mosaics. The museum is a must, and has an extensive exhibition of everything from statues to small coins. There are also some beaches!

Continue on to Leptis Magna, on the Mediterranean coast, about 120km east of Tripoli, a little over an hour's drive from Tripoli. Leptis Magna has the reputation of having the most complete and impressive Roman ruins in all of North Africa. It was originally a Berber settlement until the Phoenicians made it into a trading point and then it became part of the Roman empire in 111 BC. Sites to see include: a preserved amphitheatre, triumphal arches, a market area, an imperial area etc. Stay the night.

On day 3, head for Benghazi east of Tripoli. Benghazi is Libya's second largest city. Visit the museums containing Greek and Phoenician remains. On day 4, head for the ancient Greek town of Cyrene, where you can see excavated Greek remains. Cyrene now called Shah'at was founded in 631 B.C. and became the most important Greek city in North Africa. It was later occupied by the Romans and reached its height under Emperor Augustus. Next go on to neighbouring Appolonia, named after the God, Apollo. The Mediterranean harbour has an acropolis on one of its hills, a theatre, a famous church, baths, old city walls etc. Return to Tripoli to stay the night before heading south to visit the Sahara, troglodyte caves, mountains and oases.

Day 5, head for Jabal Nafuosa where you can see the fortress towns of the Berbers. These are situated between 80 km to 350km south of Tripoli and are on the edge of the Nafuosa Mountains. En route, you can stop at Gharyan, about 100 km south of Tripoli where you can see troglodyte dwellings dug vertically down into the ground. You will have to stay over night in one of these towns and continue on to Ghadames 650km south-west of Tripoli. Ghadames is a beautiful town and a UNESCO World Heritage site. You can visit the sand dunes of the Sahara, take camel rides, and see folk law shows by both the people of Ghadames and also the nomadic Tuareg.

On day 6, continue much further south, to Ghat in the middle of the Sahara, close to the Algerian border. It is an old town close to massive sand dunes of the Sahara – which if you have never seen them before are pretty impressive. From here, one can continue to the Akakus Mountains to see 10,000 year prehistoric cave and rock paintings of elephants, giraffes, rhinoceroses, ostriches and crocodiles. Accommodation this far south, is basic and usually involves in sleeping in tents. It is not possible to visit the Akakus Mountains alone, you will have to take a guide or join an excursion as it is very easy to get lost. The usual trip is about 200 km and runs in a half circle, starting south of Ghat, and ending more than 100 km north of Ghat. The Libyan tourism agency says that on doing this trip, you should realise that you are visiting an area less visited than the South Pole! On day 7 return to Tripoli.