Category Archives: enewsletter

Ontario:

The next meeting will be on January 18th at the the Woodsworth Co-op : Ann Dohler will talk about her recent trip to Peru, the Galapagos and the Amazon.

For further information on Ontario meetings, please contact: Svatka Hermanek: shermanek@schulich.yorku.ca or Bruce Weber: tel. 416-203-0911 or Paul Webb: tel. 416-694-8259.

Toronto GT Meetings are held on the third Friday of January, March, May, September and November. Usually at the Woodsworth Co-op, Penthouse, 133, Wilton Street in downtown Toronto at 8.00 p.m.


Cycling from England to New Zealand by Chris and Malcolm, Kiwis on Bikes!

Globetrotting Kiwis, Christine and Malcolm Clark are a little over 18 months and 8,759 miles into their epic cycling journey, from England to New Zealand. Their trip is entirely self-funded and they are also helping to raise money for the Gray Cancer Institute, a UK based cancer research organization.

Our route took us across France where we received much encouragement from the French, hyped up by the recent Tour de France. Picking up the Danube cycle path, we crossed Germany, Austria, Slovakia and Hungary before leaving the river in Budapest. Romania gave us a warm welcome and throughout our stay we received honest hospitality and friendliness. This was in stark contrast to the warnings we had received before entering the country. Bulgaria was a totally different place to our experiences 13 years previously. The two weeks there provided the opportunity to meet many people and again be on the receiving end of much generosity.

As we made our way through the city walls and down into the backpacker settlement of Sultanahmet, Istanbul, the strains of Crowded House blended in with the calls to prayer and the clink of a cold bottle of beer contrasted with scarf clad ladies scuttling along buying vegetables. The East of Turkey again showed wonderful hospitality but also large packs of marauding dogs. These caused many anxious moments but the Dog Dazer, an electronic device, saved us from any serious maulings. It was with great trepidation that we entered Iran and, for Christine, a whole new way of dressing. With preconceptions of fundamentalism and chador clad women in our minds we found instead a country struggling with its identity: desperate to become more developed with a loathing of America idealism but still coveting the American icons and materialism. However, the people were welcoming and friendly, the hotels clean and the food tasty and hygienic. The dual pricing system of all hotels and tourist attractions was wearying but did not detract from the stunning natural beauty of the country.

It was a great co-incidence to cross into Pakistan on the same day of the first cricket test between Pakistan and New Zealand. There was more ribbing about the test results than any concerns about border formalities. The ride across the Great Sandy Desert of Baluchistan was stunning, isolated and contrary to what most guide books say about the area – safe. With the right frame of mind and appropriate dress code Pakistan is a truly enthralling destination. A detour up the Karakoram Highway to the market town of Kashgar, China turned out to be more complicated than we expected. The events of the 11/09 closed the borders back to Pakistan and we set off across Western Tibet towards the Nepalese border. Crossing passes of over 4,500 metres with temperatures often below freezing, it was the most challenging cycling we had ever done. Nepal however welcomed us with friendly faces and calls of 'Namaste' rang in our ears and we braved the rickshaws and tuk tuks of Thamel to find our hotel. We are watching the events in India and Pakistan carefully before we head down onto the plains.

We are now using our journey to help raise money for a UK based cancer research organisation, the Gray Cancer Institute. For more details please see our website www.kiwisonbikes.net brought to you with the tireless efforts of Guildford based Mike Fisher.

Wow! The Beetle is truly humbled – this is so inspiring! If you would like to contact the Kiwis on Bikes, visit their web site: http://www.kiwisonbikes.net


You want to go to – Libya

Libya, sandwiched between Tunisia to the north west, Algeria to the west, Egypt to the east and Niger and Chad to the south is little visited but has a great deal to offer to the traveller: Roman and Greek remains of Leptis Magna and Cyrene, the Sahara desert, Berber fortresses, oases, prehistoric cave paintings, mountains and old towns. To obtain a visa, you must have an invitation from a Libyan which is sent to the Libyan embassy in your country; a travel agent in Libya can usually arrange this. Americans are allowed to enter Libya, but if you have an Israeli stamp in your passport, you will not be granted a visa. Alitalia, Lufthansa, British Airways, Austrian and AirMalta all fly direct to Tripoli. Alternatively, it is possible to take a boat from Malta to Tripoli or fly in to Djerba in neighbouring Tunisia, to the west, and take a shared taxi across the border. Most visitors take the latter routing as it is cheaper.

Arabic is the official language in Libya, but some people in shops and markets speak English and Italian. French is spoken predominantly in the southern regions. If travelling independently, you will be able to get around by shared taxi, which is the usual form of transport. Because of the vast desert in Libya, most places of interest are along the Mediterranean strip or at the edges of the desert. Libya is far richer than its neighbours and has invested in good infrastructure, including roads. The standard of living is comparatively high and the cost of hotels reflects this. It is possible to fly to some of the more distant places. Private tour groups are taken around by private four wheel drive. This trip will take in the best Libya has to offer and can be done either independently or as part of an organised tour.

Arrive at Tripoli, the capital of Libya. The old town dates back to the 4th century: wander around the souk, visit the promenade along the Mediterranean – there are beaches at Tripoli, and get acquainted etc. Spend the night and on Day 2, head west first to Sabratha, 75km west of Tripoli, founded in 9 BC by the Phoenicians and later taken over by the Romans. Sites to see include a fabulously in tact amphitheatre and the temple of Isis, public baths, temples, fountains, mosaics. The museum is a must, and has an extensive exhibition of everything from statues to small coins. There are also some beaches!

Continue on to Leptis Magna, on the Mediterranean coast, about 120km east of Tripoli, a little over an hour's drive from Tripoli. Leptis Magna has the reputation of having the most complete and impressive Roman ruins in all of North Africa. It was originally a Berber settlement until the Phoenicians made it into a trading point and then it became part of the Roman empire in 111 BC. Sites to see include: a preserved amphitheatre, triumphal arches, a market area, an imperial area etc. Stay the night.

On day 3, head for Benghazi east of Tripoli. Benghazi is Libya's second largest city. Visit the museums containing Greek and Phoenician remains. On day 4, head for the ancient Greek town of Cyrene, where you can see excavated Greek remains. Cyrene now called Shah'at was founded in 631 B.C. and became the most important Greek city in North Africa. It was later occupied by the Romans and reached its height under Emperor Augustus. Next go on to neighbouring Appolonia, named after the God, Apollo. The Mediterranean harbour has an acropolis on one of its hills, a theatre, a famous church, baths, old city walls etc. Return to Tripoli to stay the night before heading south to visit the Sahara, troglodyte caves, mountains and oases.

Day 5, head for Jabal Nafuosa where you can see the fortress towns of the Berbers. These are situated between 80 km to 350km south of Tripoli and are on the edge of the Nafuosa Mountains. En route, you can stop at Gharyan, about 100 km south of Tripoli where you can see troglodyte dwellings dug vertically down into the ground. You will have to stay over night in one of these towns and continue on to Ghadames 650km south-west of Tripoli. Ghadames is a beautiful town and a UNESCO World Heritage site. You can visit the sand dunes of the Sahara, take camel rides, and see folk law shows by both the people of Ghadames and also the nomadic Tuareg.

On day 6, continue much further south, to Ghat in the middle of the Sahara, close to the Algerian border. It is an old town close to massive sand dunes of the Sahara – which if you have never seen them before are pretty impressive. From here, one can continue to the Akakus Mountains to see 10,000 year prehistoric cave and rock paintings of elephants, giraffes, rhinoceroses, ostriches and crocodiles. Accommodation this far south, is basic and usually involves in sleeping in tents. It is not possible to visit the Akakus Mountains alone, you will have to take a guide or join an excursion as it is very easy to get lost. The usual trip is about 200 km and runs in a half circle, starting south of Ghat, and ending more than 100 km north of Ghat. The Libyan tourism agency says that on doing this trip, you should realise that you are visiting an area less visited than the South Pole! On day 7 return to Tripoli.


Historic Scotland: The Island of Iona

Iona, the tiny island off Mull, off the west coast of Scotland, is known as being the island where St. Columba and his 12 disciples landed from Ireland in AD 563 and spread the word of Christianity to Scotland and beyond. As such, it is an important centre for pilgrims who flock to Iona once a year. In fact, many Kings of Scotland, Norway and Ireland are buried on Iona.

It is unbelievably small and picturesque and runs 3 miles from north to south and 1½ miles from east to west. Whilst cars are not allowed on Iona, it is possible to visit by ferry from Mull. There are two hotels which can be contacted by internet: the Argyll Hotel reception@argyllhoteliona.co.uk and the St Columba Hotel columba@btconnect.com.

Iona is very green and peaceful; it has a wonderfully serene feel to the island, one of calm. There is an Abbey and a Nunnery that hold what is believed to be some of the most complete collection of Christian carved stones in Scotland, ranging in age from 600AD to the 1600s.

To see: there is St Columbus' restored monastery, shops, a post office, hotels, a golf course, an old marble quarry, gorgeous sandy beaches, walking paths and plenty of wild life to see.


Travel Quiz – East & Southern South Africa

The winner of last months' Fiji Quiz is Arthur Carmichael from the United States. We have another travel guide to give away this month, called Climbing in New Zealand by the repressible Alastair Lee who was a fantastic speaker at the January London Globetrotter meeting.

1. What is the capital of New Zealand?

2. Are the Wanaka Crags in the North Island or the South Island?

3. What watery feature would you find in Taupo, in the North Island?

4. What side of the road do you drive on in New Zealand?

5. What is a Kea?

YourName:

Your e-mail address:


Not to be Seen Dead In?

On a more positive note, contrary to popular belief, US citizens are allowed to visit Libya! This is good news as the Beetle is trying to persuade one to join her on a potential trip to Libya!

And on the flip side, just two days after the US government eased its warnings to US citizens not to travel to Pakistan, following the abduction of a US Wall Street journalist, the warnings are back in place.


Pirates foiled by international co-operation!

Forget the romantic notion of Captain Hook and Cap'n Kidd – piracy is alive and well in the modern world!

Just last week, coastguards in Falmouth, in the south west of England picked up an SOS call almost 4,000 miles away from the Princess Sarah, a Greek owned ship off the Horn of Africa. The British alerted the French army based in Djibouti and Somalia who had a warship in the area. The French ship, Floreal, sent a helicopter to assist the Princess Sarah and scared the pirates off.

Incredibly, this is the second time that the Princess Sarah has been helped by the same coastguards, only a month earlier whilst off the coast of Somalia.


Monkeys at Agra Fort, India

An alert, bought to the attention of the Beetle by Frank, in the US, about a female traveller in India who was bitten by a monkey at Agra Fort. Frank saw a report in a Lonely Planet bulletin: the report says that the traveller was not carrying food, was not feeding the monkeys or trying to gain their attention, when she received a nasty bite on the leg, quite out of the blue.

She went on to say that the “friendly” monkeys, as described in various guide books are far from it: they have become aggressive and are prone to attacking visitors. She then had to spend large amounts of time (and money, and worry) ensuring that she received all of the immunisations against diseases that the monkeys can carry -these include rabies and a virus which can lead to encephalitis.

Travellers – you have been warned! Animals like this are still wild and should be treated with caution.


Watching the Road in Iran

This wonderful snippet about travelling in Iran came from Kevin, near London (not Croydon!) Kevin tells us about the effect some of the girls he was travelling with had on a hapless Iranian driver.

After leaving the “Hotel Fleapit” in Neriz we were on the road to Bam, when we unfortunately broke down. While Percy, a mechanically gifted Canadian, set about fixing our truck the rest of us put the kettle on and watched the world go by. Some of the girls decided to mark out a hopscotch pitch on the roadside, and started to play, dressed from head to toe in their black chadours, which was quite an exhibition. As they played we sat transfixed as a Pykan (Iranian Renault 12) came round the corner, the driver clearly not used to seeing a bunch of girls hopping at the roadside, drove straight into the ditch.