Sally is British and has lived in the UK all her life.
International travel as part of her work took her to many
countries, including Portugal. She fell in love with the
place and decided to sell her beautiful cottage in
Malmsbury, Wiltshire, and relocate to Lisbon. In this
article, she tells us about exploring Cascais, in
Portugal.
So, what have I been up to? Well I have been exploring
Cascais – I had to have a coffee bar to replace the one I
used in Alfama and so far have found two that are really
nice. The first one, Chocolat, is in the centre and is
air-conditioned (a boon in the summer heat wave) and
although more pricey than others, is quite glamorous. It
does all sorts of herbal and fruit teas as well as every
variety of coffee. It sells snacks and cakes and does great
scones – a favourite being cinnamon. The second one is up a
back street not far from the main square and is called Mise
en Scene. This again does lovely teas and coffees and
wonderful savouries. It has tables outside and inside its
decorated in a cross between Mediterranean and Indian
styles. Very good for vegetarians too. On Sundays I drive
along the coast road to Casa da Guia – a large mansion with
coffee bars, restaurants and shops with a view of the sea –
to get the Sunday papers and then sit looking out at sea
reading all the news. The service is atrocious – you wait
ages to order, then ages for it to arrive and then a
lifetime waiting for the bill and change but the view is
worth it.
Throughout the heat wave the most popular places to go
were the shopping centres because of the air conditioning.
The beaches were, as you would expect, very busy but the
guys on the beach that I use, said that it was still quiet
compared to last year. I still get my bed for 2 Euros which
is great value. It’s a nice beach with bars, ice cream
kiosks and a ski school behind. You can sit and watch the
water skiers fall in and the antics of the kids on the
banana boat as well as all the other yachts, fishing boats
and in the distance the big tankers on their way into
Lisbon. Someone has also started boat trips up the coast to
Lisbon (on Sundays) and to Carcavelos (about 10 minutes by
road) in a tall ship. Apparently you can join in the work
on the boat or just enjoy the trip.
The Marina is an odd place – obviously it has all the
flash boats etc. and the shops, bars, restaurants etc. but
doesn’t seem to be doing very well. I was told by a friend
that the mooring fees here in Cascais are the most
expensive in Europe!! May be that’s the reason then. There
have also been a spate of late night muggings which have
caused problems.
Along the coast road just up from Boca d’Inferno (Hell’s
Mouth) is a great hot dog stand with amazing views out over
the sea. Very enterprising operation run on solar power
with tables and chairs, umbrellas etc. but no loo! They
play good music too. Unfortunately as I do not like hot
dogs I have not actually tried them but my local friends
recommend them highly.
Cascais has a lovely park with a museum, ponds and a
mini zoo. Very popular on Sundays with families and
obviously with school parties. The areas behind the main
streets are also very interesting with the old traditional
properties and some of them have the most fabulous gardens
– some times parts of it remind me very much of Malmsbury –
the streets are just as narrow and there is a crazy one way
system that still manages to confuse me and I end up
somewhere I have never been before but it doesn’t matter as
it’s a great way of finding new areas.
Living down by the coast is really nice. Although
Cascais is a holiday resort, when you live here you really
don’t notice it that much because the tourists tend to be
concentrated by the seafront and the main square, although
it has been pretty obvious that this year has been very
quiet. The beach I use in previous years would have three
or four guys working the beach, doing the beds, the canoes,
the banana boat and water skiing and then about four or
five behind the bar and waiting on the tables. This year
there have been two on the beach (one finished two weeks
ago); and two waiting tables (one finished about three
weeks ago) and the rest is done by the husband and wife who
own the beach bar. August was busy because that’s when the
whole country is on holiday – they even stop charging to
come across the bridges as an incentive for people.
If you’d like to contact Sally, she can be reached by
e-mail on: pethybs@hotmail.com