If there's only one trip you do in Seoul, it should be this one. The iron curtain has gone from Germany but is alive and well here. You have to take a tour. ON this occasion, the tour bus was 98% Japanese, just me and an American guy who spoke English, so we got the front seats and a guide to ourselves, and as we listened, we had the Japanese snoring champion behind us!

Panmunjon is the site of the UN base Camp Boniface, named after a UN Soldier murdered by the North Koreans. You are taken to Ballinger Hall, where you get a slide show showing the history and what you are going to be seeing. It's at this point you have to sign a disclaimer form saying you won't blame them if the North Koreans take a pot shot at you while you are on the tour!

The Observation post is next, where you look across to “Propoganda Village” an uninhabited North Korean village that has a 160 metre high flagpole, this dwarfs the 100 metre high one at Freedom village on the South Korean side. You look down also on the 4 huts, 3 blue and one silver where occasional peace talks take place. Then you cross the road and enter blue hut number 2, inside is a table with microphones down the middle.

Outside North Korean guards peer in at you, you are allowed to take photos surprisingly. But the two sets of guards glower at each other through their sunglasses, so they cannot make eye contact. The Southern guards have only half their body showing, so they are less of a target!

Back at Camp Boniface you have an all you can eat “All American” buffet lunch, chicken, sweet corn, potatoes, etc etc. You are then free to buy a T-shirt or other souvenir. By the gate is “The worlds most dangerous golf hole”! If you slice from here you won't get your ball back!

HOLLAND BY BIKE! Rob Lewis, one of our own, will be giving a slide show and lecture about Holland and perhaps select areas of England and Ireland. Come join us for our Sept. kick off meeting! Should be amazing! Away from the tourist trail, the real Holland of dunes, rivers, dikes, canals, lowlands, windmills and castles can be reached via the Landelijk Fietsplatform (LF) routes – 3000 miles of long distance cycle routes. Robert will be giving a slide show and discussing the routes, sights, and stresses of trying to circle the Netherlands during a 7 day self guided tour. Robert Lewis is a recent arrival to NY, having spent 8 years living in Hong Kong working as an equity research analyst focusing on Asian technology companies. Robert has travelled extensively throughout Europe and Asia, and has taken his bicycle to Australia, New Zealand and Japan.

New York meetings are held at The Wings Theater, 154 Christopher Street (btw Greenwich St and Washington St), to the right of Crunch Fitness, in the Archive on the first Saturday of each month at 4 pm.

Buzz is in the Beetle's opinion the only decent low cost airline. On board information includes useful hints and tips about your destination, what to do and where to stay, and what's more, you can keep it! Yes, you have to pay for your food, but the service is far superior to a carrier such as Ryan Air. From 27 October 2002, Buzz will be flying up to six flights a day from London Stansted to Amsterdam, the land of Vermeer and Amstel beer. Prices start from just £21 one way – so you've got no excuse not to visit one of the most relaxed, vibrant and cosmopolitan cities in Europe. Buzz are also launching their new winter schedule: from 27 October 2002 until 29 March 2003, you can fly to some great winter destinations – and from 14 December, they are reopening their routes to Chambéry and Geneva – great for planning a cheap skiing holiday. See www.buzz.co.uk

For information on Ontario meetings, please contact: Svatka Hermanek:

shermanek@schulich.yorku.ca or Bruce Weber: tel. 416-203-0911 or Paul Webb: tel. 416-694-8259.

Meetings are held on the third Friday of January, March, May, September and November. Usually at the Woodsworth Co-op, Penthouse, 133, Wilton Street in downtown Toronto at 8.00 p.m.

The majority of this trip uses travel by train, with journeys of no more than 4 hours. It takes in Jerez, Seville, Cordoba, Granada, Ronda, Cadiz and Algeciras if you are planning to take the hydrofoil across to Morocco, if you have time and then back to Jerez. Because there are some good flight deals from the UK, you could start the journey in Jerez, or Seville, Granada or even Malaga, which is only about 1½ hours away from Granada.

Buzz http://www.buzzaway.com has cheap flights to Jerez, Easy Jet http://www.easyjet.co.uk flies to both Madrid and Malaga but Ryan Air does not fly to Spain. Otherwise, try Lastminute.com for good airline deals to Southern Spain.) If you intend to continue your stay, you may find it worthwhile to buy a Spain train pass, otherwise, the train fares are reasonable, and Spain's trains are on the whole, very efficient and clean. It's also possible to start this journey from Madrid, if that is where you happen to be: Seville is only 2 ¼ hours from Madrid by the super fast AVE train.

The Beetle has chosen to start in Jerez (pronounced Her-eth). So, what is there to see and do in Jerez? Well, the most obvious thing is to go and taste some sherry – this is, after all, the place where sherry comes from! There are lots of bodegas where you can see how sherry is made and of course sample a drop or too! There's the Alcazar, the palace and the Camera Obscura, and if you like horses, then the Jerez Riding School is for you. There is certainly enough to keep you happy and occupied for a couple of days.

From here, you can take the train from Jerez to Seville, around 1 1/2 hours, if you take an express train, second class adult single: £ 7.50 ($12) or return £15 ($23). This trip can be taken as a day trip or as part of a circuit, taking in Jerez, Seville, Cordoba and Granada.

Seville is a beautiful city, and the capital of Andalucia, with lovely old streets, lots of tapas bars and of course, the famous cathedral, which contains the tomb of Christopher Colombus, well, it may contain the remains of Christopher Colombus, his remains were brought over from Cuba in 1899, and may have got mislaid en route. There are churches, plazas, museums – many places to go and visit to keep a tourist amused, again for a couple of days.

From Seville, it is possible to take the train to Cordoba. The journey takes about 45 minutes and costs around £12 one way or $19. Cordoba is probably most famous for the Mezquita, the Great Mosque, which influenced Arabian-Hispanic architecture for the centuries to come. You will find much evidence of Roman and Moorish history in Cordoba and great food too!

From Cordoba, take the train to Granada, which is the longest journey of this circuit, takes about 4 hours and costs around £ 7.50 ($12) or return £15 ($23) – the bus is quicker and takes 3 hours. No need to say much about Granada, except that you must see the Alhambra, discussed by Matt in this e-newsletter.

The Alhambra Palace is open throughout the year except 1st January and 25th December. Visiting times are 8.30 to 20.00h (1st March to 31st Oct. Last admissions at 19.00) and 9.00 to 18.00h (1st November to end of February). Last admissions are at 17.00. Night visits in the winter season are on Fridays and Saturdays from 20.00 to 22.00h (ticket sales from 19.45 to 21.00h). In the summer on Tuesday, Thursday and Saturday from 22.00 to 24.00 (ticket sales from 20.45 to 23.00). However, given the large numbers of visitors, visiting times are assigned in a system of slots, which makes it extremely advisable to book in advance, especially at peak times such as May to October.

If you don't want to risk being disappointed when you turn up, you can make a personal booking through BBV by calling the advance bookings telephone service in Spain, Tel: number 0034 91346 5936/0034 902 224460 or visit www.alhambratickets.com (Spanish only). When you have had your fill of the Alhambra, head for the Allaying, Granada's old hilly Islamic quarter and the Camilla Real or Royal Chapel.

From Granada, take the train to Ronda, a pretty and old historic town that straddles a huge gorge. Apart from the stunning scenery and views, there are plazas to wander around, old palaces and churches. Be warned, though, if you want to make this trip by train, there is only one train a day leaving Granada, otherwise, take the bus. The train takes around 2 1/4 hours and costs about £12 one way or $19. It is also possible to travel by train to Ronda from Malaga (2 hours), Cordoba (2 14/ hours), Madrid (4 ½ hours during the day), and Seville – although from Seville, you have to change trains.

If you are running out of time, then take a bus back from Ronda to Jerez, it takes less than two hours. If you have some more time, then you have two options. Option 1 is to take a bus from Ronda to Cadiz. Cadiz is a charming city, some say possibly the oldest in Europe, (I know, they all say that!), but it is full of history: the Phoenicians arrived in Cadiz in 1100 BC, and do you remember Sir Francis Drake “singeing” the beard of the King of Spain? Things to see and do include the Torre Tavira and its camera Obscura, visiting plazas, the cathedral, and you should take a coastal walk to the Castle of Santa Catalina. The train from Cadiz to Jerez takes about 40 minutes and costs only a few pounds/dollars.

Option 2 is for those who would like to go to Gibraltar or Morocco. The train from Ronda down to Algeciras takes 1 1/2 hours, and costs around £7 or US $10. Algeciras is a port town, on the tip of Spain, overlooking the Straits of Gibraltar. From here, you can make a day excursion to Gibraltar, or use it as a jumping off point to Tangier in Morocco. The hydrofoil to Tangiers takes about 2 ½ hours, is very simple and costs around £17 or $24 one way. From Tangier, it is easy to travel through Morocco by bus and train, to Fez, Meknes, Marrakech and Cassablanca (if you really must – Marrakech is far nicer!) To get back to Jerez from Algeciras, take a bus, which will take around 2 hours.

Cadiz, Seville and Cordoba are all possible contenders for day trips out of Jerez, if you are short on time.