Tag Archives: June 2002

London Markets: Portobello Road

On Saturdays there are three markets in one: the antique section is in the south between Chepstow Villas and Coleville Road (the Notting Hill Gate end); a fruit and vegetable market in the middle, runs from Coleville Road to Westway; and at the north end of the market you will find records, books, jewellery and trendy clothes, both new and second hand, along with a flea market.

There are said to be over 1,500 antique dealers here! This is an extremely popular location for tourists and locals alike, so be warned, it is a prime spot for pickpockets. There are lots of good pubs and cafes nearby where you can get refreshments after a hard day shopping.

It's obviously in Portobello Road, London W11 (underground: Notting Hill), open Fridays and Saturdays 8am to 3pm. You can also check out info on: Portobello Online

Next month: Brixton Market


US TV Show Appeal

Tina is a segment producer for a TV show called “Radical Sabbaticals” which airs on the Fine Living Network in the United States. The show features passionate, inspirational stories about successful, professional people who have walked away from their careers to pursue a dream…i.e. the CEO of a multi-million dollar company who left to become a wine maker. They could also be on an open-ended sabbatical We are also looking for people who have also given up their career to move to Europe to pursue their dreams. If you could refer any people or stories to us, it would be greatly appreciated. Your response would be greatly appreciated. Tina can be reached at (818) 755-4800 ext. 207 or click here to email Tina.



New Incan Site Found

A team of explorers acting on a tip from a mule-handler have discovered the ruins of a lost city, Cota Coca, some 50 kilometres southwest of Machu Picchu in the Andes. Cota Coca is likely one of the places to which fleeing Incas retreated from the Spanish in 1532, before their total defeat about 40 years later. The team believe that the site has remained untouched for more than 500 years. British writer and explorer Hugh Thomson said the site, more of a settlement than what we would understand as a city, was in a “remarkable state of preservation”.

Mr Thomson, a co-leader of the expedition, said: “You're only going to find a new Inca site once in your life.”

Britain's Royal Geographical Society says Cota Coca's “constructed area” is more than twice as large as any found at the other Incan ruin whose discovery was announced just a few months ago. “This is an important discovery, because it is a sizeable centre of good — quality late — Inca masonry,” said John Hemming, a well — known Inca expert and former director of the Royal Geographical Society.



Hotmail to charge!

As all travellers know, accessing home e-mails from a free service such as Yahoo or Hotmail is fantastically useful, especially for those long trips away.

From 16 July, Hotmail will end the free service that makes it possible to check e-mail accounts held with net service providers via its website. There are apparently around 110 million Hotmail users who before now have managed all their e-mail accounts via the site. Earlier this year, Hotmail rivals Yahoo and Lycos introduced charges for similar services. Anyone wanting to check other accounts, so called POP mail, will have to sign up for the MSN Extra Storage service which, in the UK, costs £19.95 per year. In addition to getting access to the POP mail service, those signing up for Extra Storage get 10 megabytes of space that lets them get and send larger attachments and ensures that their account stays live even if they stop using it for 30 days. Many net experts see the charging of fees for once free services as an inevitable part of the web's development.

Many companies with websites are looking for new ways to offset the cost of running their net business now that revenue from advertising is harder to come by and investor funds are scarce.

Anyone wanting to still use a free POP mail service can find a comprehensive list at emailaddresses.com.



Jacqui's Diary: Guatemala and Mexico

Hola! mis amigos, I have been in San Pedro la Laguna, on the shores of Lake Atitlan, for the past three weeks, learning more Spanish and living with a lovely family. It was an insight into the lives of people here and I was glad to have the time to relax and rest after my long overland trip. The atmosphere in San Pedro could not have been better. No hassle, lots of learning, good weather and the lake as a lovely backdrop to everything. I saw a couple of video movies at Nick's Place and otherwise lived a quiet life.

I did get to Chichicastenango last Sunday for the market and that was a real change of scene. I refrained from buying all that I could see and just soaked up the ambience. As I will have the chance to re-visit the market with the next overland group there was no need to rush into anything. It was also the only rain I saw in three weeks. The benefit of this was to clear the air of dust so that, for the first time, I could see why Lake Atitlan is dubbed 'the most beautiful lake in the world'. It is certainly picturesque and well worth the visit. Mexico is next on my itinerary!

Greetings from San Cristóbal las Casas!

I have started my next overland trip and it is as different to the first as is possible to imagine. I got to Mexico almost three weeks ago from Antigua, having had my main bag of luggage “disappear” from my hotel. I have almost come to terms with it now but it was hard to accept that all my camping things, personal items, some new clothes and various other bits and pieces were no longer mine. The owner did not want to involve the police so we settled the matter in dollars cash but it doesn't really compensate for the loss. I am fine now and have replaced the necessary and am thankful for having sent so much home in Venezuela. The trip to Mexico was an overnight bus trip and suddenly I was in Mexico City. It is pretty high in altitude and very smoggy but it is just a bigger than average city and I had no trouble there at all. Lots of old and very elegant buildings in the centre, mariachi bands in Plaza Garibaldi, the Museo de Anthropologica, parks, palacios, an excellent metro system and a chance to catch my breath.

From there I went to Guanajuanato, a beautifully preserved colonial town about 4hrs drive north of Mexico City. Also a university town under a UN World Heritage site order. I had three days there, and except for the fact that some insect had me for a midnight feast in my hotel, I loved the place. Next stop a town 80 kms away called San Miguel de Allende, and two lovely evenings of music and traditional dances at a local festival. It was done with their magnificent San Rafael Cathedral for a backdrop and with lots of goodwill on the parts of both audience and performers. I then went to Guadalajara, Mexico's second city. It was surprisingly beautiful in the centre although I had only one day and could not do justice to its many advertised attractions. From there I descended further and had a hot and sticky day in Acapulco. It is as ritzy or as grungy as you like and was surprisingly attractive in a slightly citified/beach resort sort of way. Back into the hills and a night at the town of Taxco to wander the streets and try not to buy the mountains of silver on offer. It was full of cobbled streets and silver shops and they were all up hill!

Back to Mexico City and I succumbed to the tummy bug that I picked up somewhere so I did not get to see the Basilica of the Virgin of Guadalupe as I had planned, but I did meet my new leader, Wayne (40, mad, English Exodus driver) and the two (honest!) other fellows on my new “group”, Derry (retired 60+ Australian accountant) and Martin (34, English IT technician). Evidently the van has to be in Panama for a full group in August so they have to relocate it and decided to run the trip despite the lack of numbers. So far it has been great. All of us have travelled extensively and we never seem at a loss for something to say. And while we do not necessarily agree about everything we very quickly established that we wanted to have a good time and were prepared to discuss and find the best option for all. As you can imagine meal times are a group effort and there is no hassle when it comes to trying to do any activity as we fit in anywhere. Should be good – I'll keep you posted!

Since leaving Mexico City, we have had two nights in Oaxaco, visited our first ruins at Monte Alban and Mitla, travelled on to camp in the Sierra Altavesada at Jiquipilas, and now in San Cristóbal. From here we head towards the ruins of Palenque and then to Uxmal and Merida, Chichin Itza and on to the coast. It will evidently be hot and humid from here on and I will not always have email access so the next group letter will probably be from Antigua towards the end of the month.

Thanks Jacqui and keep us posted! If anyone would like to contact Jacqui, her e-mail is: jacquitrotter@yahoo.com

What have you seen on your travels? Drop a line to the Beetle! Beetle@globetrotters.co.uk


Best airport nominations

With thanks to sleepinginairports.net

Last month we had the winner, Changi airport in Singapore, which the Beetle can wholeheartedly agree with – it is a lovely airport! According to the website Sleeping in Airports, the runners up to the best airport to sleep in are as follows:

Runners Up (in alphabetical order):

  • Amsterdam, Netherlands
  • Auckland, New Zealand
  • Hong Kong
  • Melbourne, Australia
  • Munich, Germany
  • Pittsburgh, Pennsylvania
  • Portland, Oregon
  • Toronto (Terminal 3), Ontario
  • Vancouver, British Columbia

Write in and tell us your best airport nominations! Beetle@globetrotters.co.uk



Buddha's Teeth

You may have read recently about one of Buddha's fingers being brought from Thailand to Taipei in Taiwan. This got the Beetle wondering about other parts of Buddha and where you can see them. It is possible to see the casket containing the left incisor of the Buddha in the sacred temple in Kandy, Sri Lanka. The Beetle queued up for some time to walk past this sacred relic — it was certainly an experience! It seems that there are three of Buddha's teeth in existence: one in Sri Lanka, one in China and one in Thailand.

Buddhists in Sri Lanka celebrate “Buddha Tooth Festival” which begins on 1st of August every year and lasts for twelve days. Every night during the festival, grand parades can be seen starting from 8:00pm until 11:00pm. The Chinese tooth was found by a monk in 475AD and hidden in what is today Nanking, in China. In times of war, it was taken to Beijing and placed in a stupa. In 1900 when Beijing was invaded, the stupa was destroyed, and monks found the tooth in the rubble. In 1964, the stupa was rebuilt and the tooth placed in the pagoda of Beijing. The third tooth is alleged to have passed into Tibet and transferred to India during the Cultural Revolution before its final resting place in Thailand.



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Sarajevo, Bosnia and Herzegovina: Phoenix with one wing by Sead Turulja

Anyone, anywhere in the world, who watched the news during the first half of the 1990s must know about Sarajevo. Sarajevo is the capital of Bosnia and Herzegovina, a small but green and mountainous country with 4 million people, bordered by Croatia to the south and west, and Yugoslavia to the east. The recent war (1992 – 1995) and heavy siege brought unwanted world attention to the city, not to mention approximately 10,500 dead citizens and over 100,000 wounded.

The war is definitely over, and modern day Sarajevo in 2002 has a lot to offer to a tourist. The city itself used to be a “must-visit” destination in the decades before the war, especially if you were visiting Bosnia. After the war, much money has been invested in Sarajevo on improving its infrastructure etc, to encourage the return of tourists, but so far, the visitor figures are disappointing.

Bosnia and Herzegovina is a Western Christian Country with experience of 4 centuries of Ottoman-Turk presence, which made Sarajevo a point where west and east, and north and south meet. Some call the city European Jerusalem, where in a circle of 100 meters one can see several churches, mosques and synagogues together existing and co-existing in peace for centuries. “Equal chances for all” was the motto of the city for centuries, attracting some 10 different religious communities to settle in the city.

There is something to do in Sarajevo all year round. Sarajevo is a big open-air museum, with unique architecture and artefacts from 4000 years of European history. There's plenty to see and do: drink a cold beer in one of the many street cafes, whilst watching the world pass by, one can see: public buildings, squares, fortresses, famous places such as where Archduke Franz Ferdinand was assassinated, igniting WW1, museums, churches, mosques, synagogues, old houses, and much, much more! ATM's are all over the place, as are Internet cafes.

One of the highlights to visit in Sarajevo is the tunnel that was the only supply line during the war for the city and the tunnel museum from the last war. As well as reading and signing the visitor's book, which is almost an historic document in itself, you can actually walk down a small part of the 800 metre long tunnel. You can watch a 20 minute long video, a documentary with real footage from the last war.

Sarajevo was a host to the 14th Olympic games 1984 and has a lot to offer to a winter tourist. Our mountains Igman and Bjelasnica ( 45 minutes by car or bus from city centre) offer skiing 6 months a year with all facilities such as ski-lifts etc. The city is a serious contender for the 2010 Winter Olympics!

Citizens from all of the countries in Western Europe, the U.S.A. and Canada do not need a visa to enter Bosnia and it is easy to get to Sarajevo: 7 international air carriers have routes to Sarajevo, including Austrian Air, Lufthansa, Swiss Air, and Malev. There are also trains and long distance buses connecting Sarajevo with the rest of Europe. These include a daily train from Zagreb, Croatia (9 hrs), and long distance international buses, e.g. from Split (6hrs) and Dubrovnik (5 ½ hrs).

There are hotels to stay, including a phenomenally expensive Holiday Inn. Generally speaking, a room in a modern hotel will cost 45 euros+ (US $45) per person. Staying in a hotel is more or less the same as in any country of the world and is to be recommended only for people that suffer from surplus of money and like being bored. Private accommodation is cheaper, but if your host doesn't speak English too well, and is not officially registered, (proved by ID card with photo + official seal of his/her firm), you'll probably be taken to rooms in some suburb of Sarajevo in a middle of nowhere, apart from being involved in illegal activity. Good hostels or private accommodation in the two main municipalities cost from 15 euros per person.

SARTOUR has a hostel which is situated 10 minutes walk from the historic centre of the city, and offers single, double and triple rooms for 15 euros per person with one of the best views of the city, quiet original Bosnian style atmosphere, and a courtyard and garden for night time schnapps drinking! They can provide services such as English speaking tourist guides for city tours etc. They also offer a big breakfast for 3 euros per person, bike rental, laundry facilities, self-catering, family and group facilities and give our best to make your stay secure and pleasant for fair and reasonable prices. Enjoy a glass or two of our famous Schnapps (plum brandy – 41% alc.), a warm welcome and hospitality.

If you would like to contact Sead to ask him about Bosnia, its history, staying in Bosnia, or touring the area, please e-mail him at: sartour@lsinter.net

Incidentally, all readers of the Globetrotter's E-Newsletter are eligible for a 10 % discount on accommodation in the Sartour hostel, and on tours around the city until 01.01.2003. Next month, the Beetle will be writing about her time in Bosnia.


Tribute to Thor Heyerdahl

When the Beetle was a very small Beetle one of the first books about travel she read was by Thor Heyerdahl, the world-renowned explorer and archaeologist. He must have fired the imaginations of millions with his exploits, trying to recreate the journeys of people from past times.

He was born in 1914, in Larvik, Norway and from his earliest days, he was an enthusiastic nature lover, and became a voracious explorer. His first expedition was to Polynesia in 1937-1938 when he was studying the origins of the island's life, that he became convinced that human settlers had come with the ocean currents from the west just as the flora and fauna had done. In 1947 he decided to build a replica of the aboriginal balsa raft (named the “Kon-Tiki”) to test his theories. In 1947, Heyerdahl and five companions left Callio, Peru and crossed 8000 km (4300 miles) in 101 days to reach Polynesia (Raroia atoll, Tuamotu Archipelago). Thor Heyerdahl managed to demonstrate that the ancient Peruvians could have reached Polynesia in this way.

Following the success of the Kon-Tiki Expedition, in 1952, Heyerdahl organized and led the Norwegian Archaeological Expedition to the Galapagos Islands, where it was demonstrated that once again, the people of South America had the means to travel much further than archaeologists had previously believed. In 1949, he continued his research on ancient navigation and turned his attention to the ancient reed-boats made of papyrus. These boats were deemed insufficient to cross the Atlantic as the reeds were believed to become water-logged after less than two weeks on open water.

Heyerdahl believed that contemporary science underestimated the ancient vessels and undertook to prove this by experiment. In 1969, he bought 12 tons of papyrus and worked with experts to construct an ancient-style vessel. The result was a 15 m boat which was launched at the old Phoenician port of Safi, Morocco. In the spirit of cooperation, Heyerdahl embarked under the UN flag with a crew of seven men from seven countries. The papyrus craft, Ra, sailed 5000 km (2700 nautical miles) in 56 days until storms and deficiencies in the construction caused the team to abandon their target only one week short of Barbados.

Thor Heyerdahl died in June of this year, aged 88.