As I write this I am crossing the Mackenzie river on a ferry on the way to Inuvik, Northwest territories, several hundred miles north of the arctic circle and as far as the road goes north in Canada. It’s about 12:30 am and the light still shines bright here. Twilight is my favourite time of day and I have just enjoyed six hours of it as I drove further and further north. Shortly it will become lighter and lighter again as the seemingly eternal dawn takes over from the eternal dusk I love no place like I love the north-it really brings out my soul and makes it sing. I left Dawson city this morning. The distance from Dawson to Inuvik is longer than from Anchorage, Alaska to Dawson. I have enjoyed every minute of it–the mountains, the wild fall colours, the quiet, the sight of the occasional moose or fox or caribou, all of it. Most of all, I love the closeness of the people up here.

I stopped about 100 miles north of the arctic circle to help three Eskimos who had a flat. Their uncle had borrowed their jack and forgot to put it back. My lug wrench and jack didn’t fit so we flagged down two cars-a New Zealander furnished the lug wrench and a British Colombian furnished the jack. We used the occasion to have a kind of party and I distributed beer from my ice chest. The Eskimos told us that right here in this gorgeous place where they broke down is where the hundreds of thousands caribou would migrate in just a few days time. I hope that I will be able to see it – it was a lovely experience and was probably my favourite experience in fixing a tire. In many other parts of the world people wouldn’t stop at all; they would be full of fear and suspicion about being robbed or killed or maybe just numb from the demands on their soul where they live. Here it is life or death, and people are used to helping each other and being available for each other. I remember when I first arrived in the north of pulling over to the side of the road in the winter to take a leak and having several cars stop and ask me if I needed help. It feels so very very good to be here! Even though I left Alaska 13 years ago, I still carry my Alaska driver’s license, and have not doubt that it will always be my real home.

To get in touch with Robert, contact the Beetle: Beetle@globetrotters.co.uk , but in the meantime, if you have a tale to tell, share your travel experience with the Beetle!

Want to join the London Committee? Already a member of the Globetrotters Club? We don’t say no to people who have some time to commit and can offer some help! Please contact Beetle@globetrotters.co.uk

New Zealand is such a fantastic (nuclear free) country, with some of the friendliest people on this earth, wonderful outdoor life, good wine, glaciers, fjords, beaches, lakes, caves, geysers, mountains, you can ski, trek, hike, white water rafting, bungee jumping, diving, surfing and ?;?;?;?;.Get the idea! The first to thing to understand about New Zealand is that there are two islands connected by ferry and air and Auckland, Wellington (the capital) and Christchurch are the three largest cities. If New Zealand takes Beetles, this is where a Beetle would retire to!

The following itinerary is a very general route and aimed at “taking in” the best of both islands in a relatively short time from Auckland to Christchurch. It is incredibly easy to travel around New Zealand. The Beetle used the bus, which are plentiful and comfortable and there’s also a rail network. You can buy discounted books of tickets and hop on-hop off, or you can do it in an organized way on something like the Kiwi Experience if you are under 25, can get by on 3 hours of sleep a night and enjoy partying or you can hire a car. It would be a total waste of time to pay for a package tour to visit New Zealand, and anyone thinking of doing this must report immediately to the Beetle!

Arrive in Auckland – there is lots of accommodation ranging from the ubiquitous 5 stars, to boutique hotels to hostels. Do any shopping you may need, there are several excellent outdoor shops selling waterproofs, sleeping bags, stoves, sleeping bags etc. If you have plenty of time, head north up to Kohukohu and stay at the Tree House Lodge – a truly wonderful place, go walking, fishing, relax and chill out. From here you can continue north still to Kaitaia where you can take trips to 90 mile beach, do the 9 km Kaitaia Walkway, then head east to Russell which has to be one of the world’s prettiest spots by the sea. Divers can dive the Rainbow Warrior from Pahaia or you can swim with the dolphins.

If you have time, detour to Waitomo Caves (amazing!) en route to Rotorua via Hamilton. They are slightly south and west of Rotorua and then on to Rotorua where you must visit the geysers and boiling mud pools and inhale the malodorous school lab smells of hydrogen sulphide. Lake Taupo is a short bus ride away – there’s lots to do and see here, the lake itself, Huka Falls where you can take a speed boat and experience death defying handbrake type turns under the Falls, another several other infrequently visited geothermal park called Craters of the Moon and Orakei Korako. Don’t forget a night time Maori concert – amazing!

Then head south for Wellington (not called the windy City for nothing!), enjoy the cafes, see the sights: take the cable car, visit the botanical gardens and the zoo, go mountain biking, check out the talent rollerblading on the waterfront, the museums and when you are through, take the ferry to Picton on the south island. ON both sides, there is a free bus service to the bus and railway stations as they are a way out of town. From here you really should explore the Abel Tasman National Park. You can walk the 58 km long Abel Tasman Track, or do part of it, or you can take organized sea kayaking tours of the Marlborough Sounds.

Bring your rain coat – it always seems to rain on the south island – and head south and west and stop at Punakaiki and rest, walk through the beautiful forests or admire the rock foundations on the beaches, then head down the west coast to the two glaciers, Franz Josef and Fox. You can take helicopter rides and land on the top, or you can climb up part of them or you can stand and admire them at their base. Continue down to Milford and take a boat trip on the Sound and see the beautiful glaciated valleys and if you are a hiker, do the four day Milford Track. If you are into all things that make the adrenalin pump, head straight up to Queenstown and enlist in bungee jumping or whatever is your thing. Otherwise, head south to the small lake town of Te Anau, known for its beauty and calm. Do visit the caves with a glow worm grotto – mystical! It’s time to head back, so either head form Queenstown and stay at Wanaka, just north of Queenstown, a gorgeous small town with vineyards by the lake and head back to Christchurch. Or alternatively, from Te Anau, head east to Dunedin and then back to Christchurch.

Next month: the best of Argentina and surrounds.

Please contact Beetle@globetrotters.co.uk for your suggested country itinerary

Sir Richard Francis Burton was born in 1821 in the UK and studied Arabic at Oxford University. He joined the British Indian Army where he mastered many more languages. He has been described variously as “brilliant and eccentric” but also as “one of those men who could never do wrong”. His major claim to fame lay in the controversy surrounding his involvement with the quest for the source of the Nile and also translating the 16 volumes of “The Tales of the Arabian Nights” and the Kama Sutra.

He was an explorer, an excellent linguist – said to speak over 29 languages, a writer, soldier and an excellent swordsman. He also loved travelling in disguise and in 1853 he entered the forbidden cities of Medina and Mecca, disguised as an Arab pilgrim. No account of Burton would be complete without a quick discussion of John Hanning Speke. In contrast to Burton, Speke was not very good at languages, and by all accounts, not terribly bright. Speke’s great passion was big game hunting and this was one of his motivating reasons for joining an expedition to seek the source of the Nile and also open up hitherto unexplored parts of Africa.

In 1856 the British Royal Geographical Society invited Burton to lead an expedition in search of the source of the Nile. Speke was part of the expedition. The two found Lake Tanganyika but both were too ill to explore the lake. Burton’s legs were paralysed through malaria and Speke was almost blind as a result of a beetle getting into his ear. They both returned to Tabora and whilst Burton was recovering, Speke made a trip north to Lake Victoria and guessed that this was the source of the White Nile – an inspired guess that was not confirmed by Livingstone and Stanley many years later. This started the disagreement between Burton and Speke. Burton was too ill to travel back to England, so Speke arrived back in London first. When Burton returned, he discovered that Speke had taken most of the credit for the discovery of Lake Tanganyika and that Speke had upstaged him.

Burton and Speke remained bitter public rivals. Mysteriously, Speke died after meeting with Burton the night before Speke was going to give a public talk about finding the source of the White Nile. About 14 years later, Burton was appointed British Consul to Trieste where he wrote around 43 books and translated many other texts. Queen Victoria knighted Burton in February 1886 and he died on Oct. 20, 1890, in Trieste.