Marcin, from Poland, but alliteratively travelling in Panama sent the Beetle this message: Hola Hombres, after only 3 hours in Panama, my host Johnny from Haiti and I went to the demonstration against the war in Iraq. It’s good that Panama also want to show that something is wrong in our world. There weren’t too many people but the atmosphere was great and the first time I saw nuns, priests and old ladies with rosary beads on the demonstrations walking along with young communists with Che Guevara flags, Indians, feminists everybody in the same spirit and I hope that our effort can make a change.

The Beetle attended the London march: who knows how many people plodded along the London streets – the organisers say 2 million, the police much less than that. It took three hours to walk from Blackfriars Bridge to Hyde Park at a slow shuffle. The atmosphere was marvellous, people of all age, race, shape, colour attended. Despite the cold and the bad sound system, it felt like attending a historic moment.

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Bill from Los Angeles wrote in to say that he took a flight legally from L A to Havana to meet Dr Byron Barksdale and his Cuba Aids Group in Cuba. All went – really well. The USA Customs officers treated me very well and the Cuban people I met were most interested in talking with Americans. There are many fine hotels to stay in at all price ranges and above all, I felt very safe throughout my trip.

Havana is a must see before the embargo is lifted. I recommend the trip to all your fine members. This prompted the Beetle to investigate. Below is some more information from Byron about Cuba.

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Cuba, the “Pearl of the Antilles” and Havana, “the Paris of the West” are becoming the destination site in the Caribbean since the Papal visit several years ago. The Cuban government has relied on tourism to fuel the Cuban economy after the collapse of the USSR. In contrast to other Caribbean destinations, in Cuba, the traveller can find local restaurants where beer is 50 cents US and hard drinks (rum mojitos or daiquiris) can be purchased for $1.00.

The beaches in Varadero, Cayo Coco, and Cayo Largo are unspoiled and the gentle slope of the shore allows easy swims and wading in crystal clear waters. International arrivals are possible into Varadero, Havana, Holguin, and Santiago de Cuba. USA citizens may travel to Cuba legally through US Treasury Licenses for humanitarian purposes. An example is humanitarian travel through Cuba AIDS Project, www.cubaaidsproject.com, which supports Non Governmental Organizations (Monseratte Church, Caritas) in Cuba.

While in Cuba, travellers can find inexpensive lodging, which includes breakfast ($10-$25/night) in local homes (casa particulars) and cheap, but wholesome, meals at local family owned, private restaurants known as paladars. If hotels are preferred, modestly priced rooms can be found at Hotel Florida ($80/night) in Old Habana or Hotel Riviera ($75/night), including breakfast, on the Seawall (El Malecon). Art, old books, literature and music are available to enjoy and purchase in many “open air” markets throughout Cuba.

The time to see Cuba is before the USA Embargo is lifted. Once the USA Embargo is lifted, the innocence and mystery of Cuba will rapidly be overrun by millions of USA tourists seeking business and recreational activities in Cuba and Cuba may end up looking like South Miami Beach very quickly. Until then, for Globetrotters, the Great Possibilities of Cuba can be enjoyed for reasonable prices and uncluttered by too many USA tourists.

About the author: Byron L Barksdale grew up in South Florida and watched ships sail back and forth to Cuba from West Palm Beach in the mid 1950s. Currently, Byron is a pathologist in Nebraska serving small hospitals and clinics in Colorado, Nebraska and Kansas. Only after he became a physician could Byron find a legal humanitarian way to see and help the poor and needy in Cuba through Cuba AIDS Project, www.cubaaidsproject.com HIV/AIDS in Cuba is a public health concern for the USA since over 180,000 USA citizens travel to Cuba each year and millions will go to Cuba after the travel ban is lifted.

Since the New Year has on from its welcoming celebrations, many

travelling folk are spending the winter conceiving travels and tours for the forthcoming year. Such thoughts brighten up these grey months that stretch through to Easter and test our imagination. Can it be coincidence that travel shows thrive during this time? I’ve always found that there is considerable enjoyment to be had from visualising any possibility and anticipating what could happen along the way. If not planning, travellers can usually be found doing – indeed I’ve ‘lost’ friends to California, Canada and Australia in quick succession recently! Have you noticed that how our non travelling friends no longer caution against such exuberance? I’m sure we should spare them a thought or two, as they are subjected to our endless plans. To calm our intoxications perhaps we should all be given copies of Alain de Botton’s The Art of Travel to digest – he comes up with some bizarre and somewhat unsettling accounts of the ‘satisfactions and disappointments of travelling’.

In considering the ‘satisfactions’, where do I find myself on route to next and how has it got to this stage? Well, following on from a long weekend in Valletta a ferry should then take me across to Sicily, probably Siracusa or Catania, with a second taking me, a week or so later, on from Trapani to Goletta. Whether this will leave me time enough to wander fully along Tunisia’s Mediterranean coast towards Gabes and Jerab I’m not sure yet. However besides the improved climates I have high hopes for good snorkelling, spectacular views of Mount Etna in its current active state and a distinctive crossing into northern Africa, which as a region is still unknown to me. If anyone has additional experiences of this vague outline they’d like to share, feel free to get in touch. Through this planning stage the ‘I’ has become ‘we’ – as Steve and Colin, two friends from previous travels who will add their own practical and entertaining inputs to this tour, have joined me. Indeed their immediate ‘yeses’ to my proposals has provided extra organising drive, along with Steve disappearing to the French speaking Canadian ski slopes for three months! No doubt Steve’s improved French language skills will ease our way into Tunisia! As a result and somewhat unusually this scheme has advanced quicker than previous and the scratched out beer plan has already evolved through to map and ticket purchases.

Initially my observations were that I wanted to make my travels more demanding this year, more revealing and more elsewhere. Attending Globetrotters and the RGS had left me feeling that my some of my recent tours were pedestrian and unchallenging in their nature and destination. Further impetus came from reading of namesake Charles Montague Doughty’s early travels across the Mediterranean countries, whilst discussions with friends Charlie and Carrie updated me with what adventures could now be had in northern Africa. Michael Palin’s recent television trek helped to round off these thoughts, particular with his attitude of still wanting to learn from what he was experiencing – something I’d like to echo. Along with the pleasure of journeys, I would still like to understand more of how I like to travel.

Where could my ‘disappointments’ come from? My previous experiences of Africa have been sub-Saharan and very much centred around Anglo Portuguese influences on the continent, but I do wonder how we will respond to French legacies and whether we can appreciate if the Sahara is a major dividing line of the African continent and peoples. I’m not vain in the sense in thinking that my travels will offer anything other than interesting experiences to us three. I would like to gain a deeper insight into what this region is about and to return with a book full of tales but as yet I’m uncertain as to what I will find, particularly in Tunisia. Like many I am wary of guide books, packaged destinations and official opinion, and as a result I’m trying to stick to a single map, a few articles that I’ve found in the weekend supplements and first hand knowledge passed on. Previous attempts at such vague planning have left me lost in Santa Barbara’s unbelievably square grid system but revealed gems such as Connemara! As such Colin and Steve don’t yet know how seemingly ill prepared we may be – I hope they understand that I’m not trying to be careless, that I just want a little more from my time away…

Matt is happy to be contacted if you’d like some more information about planning your travels or about any of the places he talks about in his own travel planning. E-mail mattdoughty@tiscali.co.uk