Madeira, Garden of the Atlantic: this is an island of incredible natural
beauty. Everywhere you go roads and paths are lined with plants: bird
of paradise, agapanthus, orchid, and hyacinths. The mountainous interior
rises steeply from the coast, broken up by ravines and gorges with the
sides covered in trees or terraces for agriculture.
There is a reason for this epithet, this verdancy; parts of the island
get up to 2m of rain a year. So now you know the downside. For those scared
of dissolving, the south side is drier especially through the summer months.
However, what an island! I am no longer allowed to say awesome! So the
scenery is amazing, the plants are amazing and the levadas (water channels)
are truly amazing – human achievement at its best. Who needs to land on
the moon? Some of the levadas cling to cliff faces, pass through tunnels
(don’t forget torches), some twine through eucalyptus or tree heather
or the Madeiran laurel forest, most have a fascination of ferns and mosses
and agapanthus along the walls, sides and edges.
Our main reason for visiting Madeira was walking generally, but more
specifically, walking the levadas. A system of watercourses channelling
water for hydroelectricity and for agriculture, not an idea original to
Madeira, but it is the accessibility of these levadas makes for some Awesome
walking. Through some of the most amazing scenery while often in the shade
and with the coolness of water flowing alongside. And they are flat(ish)
but not for those who have a problem with heights or even a slight issue
with heights. At some points paths may only be a foot to 18” wide
and barriers, when present, are a single strand of flimsy fence wire.
The other side of the path can be a drop of several hundred feet; this
can be especially interesting when the path is rough and patchy or worn.
However some levadas had a wide track adjacent, enabling two or more to
walk abreast. The real disadvantage is that most of the levadas go somewhere,
this means that without planning the walks can be “there and back”
rather than circular, and those walks which are circular often involve
a steep scramble up or down to levadas on different levels.
As a change from levadas walking, the interior of the island can be
roughly divided into two sections, to the west is the Paul da Serra, the
flattest section of the island at 1400m! This upland plain is reminiscent
of Scotland and gives a wonderful sense of solitude and space. Eastwards
are the jagged peaks of Pico Ruivo (the highest mountain on the island).
The café at Pico do Arieiro (1800m and a good starting place for
walking Pico Ruivo) served the best cup of tea of the holiday.
Although there are no beaches on the island, there are some rather fine
lidos. Those at Porto Moniz at the north west of the island utilise some
of the natural rock formations and are especially fine.
Other tourist attractions include the famed toboggan ride from Monte
down to Funchal, the capital. There are also the botanical gardens in
Funchal and the cable car ride from Monte to Funchal is recommended. Camacha
village is famous for it willow work. Other souvenirs include the famous
Madeira cake (nothing like the British sort!), Madeira wine, textiles
and ceramics. The embroidery work is fantastic, but also available are
woollens and throws. It is also possible to buy flowers (including the
bird of paradise) to ship home in hand luggage.
We did a fly drive with Style holidays, with 3 pre-booked hotels (the
Eira do Serrado in Nuns valley was wonderful, a hotel with vertigo!).
Driving on the wrong side of the road was interesting enough without the
hairpins and drops to the side. (It isn’t just the levadas, which
cling to the side of hills!). We visited in December (the quiet season)
and had one gorgeous day; one awful day and the rest were merely overcast
with showers or sunny spells.
We used the Sunflower Landscapes book as a guide (www.sunflowerbooks.co.uk)
and found it excellent (they also suggest driving tours). The “Danger
of Vertigo” points were spot on. The directions, timings and parking
were also good. We did walks 23 (totally awesome, but I did discover a
fear of heights), one of the alternatives on walk 25, 29, 37 (brilliant
and interesting), 36, and 39. Although these were mainly levada walks,
all the levadas were different and provided a wonderful variety of scenery.
We did meet a couple that said walk 12 should be dropped.
It was a great holiday and the final recommendation; Yes! I would definitely
go back.
What have you seen on your travels? Drop a line to the Beetle! Beetle@globetrotters.co.uk
