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Mac's Travel Reminiscences

We are sorry to say that Mac is not very well, but he is still e-mailing strong and recently sent the Beetle a collection of travel reminiscences about Australia, camels which takes us to India and then back to Australia.

In Alice Springs Australia I stayed in an Anglican (Church) Hostel. I was pleased but surprised that they sold beer in this church hostel. Nothing wrong with this especially since it was Australia but something different. When we arrived in Alice Springs the bus driver got a broom and swept off the dust from our suitcases. I guess the Coober Pedy, where the author of article below stared his safari from was that town, that was mostly underground as it was so hot. Even the chapel or church was underground where I went to Midnight Mass on Christmas Eve. They dug and searched for emeralds underground. You paid a few dollars and you could dig for same.

I think maybe they planted inferior or cheap emeralds so tourist could discover them but maybe it was genuine. On our bus going to the outback there were two drivers, double springs, double air conditioning and one tub full of ice in aisle way where people put beer (it was the Holidays). We stopped at one out of the way shack and it was full of grizzled natives.

We had a British lady with us that was dressed as if she was going to a party at Buckingham Palace and she carried a dainty parasol. The grizzled natives decided they would have some fun with this British lady. They said. You know when Prince Philip was in Australia he went with a native girl. The lady replied “Good for him!” It turned out she was a journalist and had been around and could pass out the repartee too. I used the term Safari which in Africa means any kind of journey I am told, but don't know if they call them that in Australia.

I am reminded of camels. One of the reasons I did not enjoy a camel safari in Rajasthan was because we did not have an entertaining fun group of people and we did not see much except sand dunes. I am a sightseer and want to see things. Ha! It was kind of boring but another time I might have enjoyed it. I really did enjoy the cities with their castles and their colourful people in colourful garb in Rajasthan and it was kind of medieval or something. It was just that I was kind of out of sorts on that day of camel riding. Sometimes on a lengthy trip you need to stop travelling and just sleep or rest for a day or two (kind of a vacation within a vacation) and then continue on. I was trying to see all of India in one trip. I later returned two more times and by then I was more adjusted to India and really enjoyed it. I only recommend India though to people that can kind of rough it and don't get too upset by poverty. Poverty in warm countries where they have large family support does not bother me as much as poverty in cold countries. I saw a lady in Nepal sitting on the ground trying to sell six peanuts. Come to think of it, tourists were giving her money so maybe she knew what she was doing.

Back to Australia: there is an article in the January 2001 Smithsonian Magazine titled For Dromedary Trekkers in Australia's outback its Camelot in the Desert by Derek Grzelewski, photographs by Mark S Wesler. The Author had seen a sign earlier on a camel farm “For those of you who have never ridden a camel we have camels that have never been ridden before”. Here is a condensation of the rather lengthy but interesting article.

It was a 150 mile desert trek on two dozen dromedaries from Archaring Hills north of Coober Pedy toward Witjaira National Park. The camels go in single file with three weeks of provisions (swags (sleeping rolls) and 100 gallons of water). The human participants would ride only an average of two hours a day taking turns sharing the two camels that were not carrying supplies and equipment. The rest of the time they walked beside the camels. (Me/Mac speaking now: I one time took about a two hour safari on camel out of Rajasthan India. Maybe it was a half day. I had forgotten about it until I read this article. The camels and their keepers in Australia originally came from Rajasthan, India or Northern India and Pakistan. The five seasoned cameleers and eight adventurers in Australia might have been on camels that were ancestors of the camel I tried to ride.

The author describes the trip as a gentle rocking motion that one could read a book while riding. (Me, I remember my ride as mildly uncomfortable. My camel was smelly and had bad breath worse than mine. In Egypt outside Pyramids the touts will tell you if you are an American that your camels name is Coca Cola. If you are Canadian they will tell you that your camels name is Canadian Club, if German your name is Heineken. Same camel. I disliked the camel I rode in Rajasthan so much that I did not ask its name.

All I could think of was I want to get back to civilization and get a cold beer. We had no beer with us. Perhaps it was forbidden. Drunken tourists and drunken camels would have been more fun. Camels can do without water for weeks but I couldn't go a couple of hours without beer. Camels can travel 600 miles without drinking if food is succulent (plants) and the air cool. These camels and handlers (known as Afghans or simply Ghans) brought from India many years ago were used to haul supplies to remote mines and sheep stations. Also sleepers for the Transcontinental Railway and the first piano arrived in Alice Springs lashed to the hump of a camel. Between 10,000 and 20,000 were released to the desert to fend for themselves when the Ghans became unemployed and could not feed their camels. The camels thrived in the desert and doubled their population every six to ten years.

There are now as many as 40,000 out in the desert. “The once unsurpassed beast of burden became simply a beast and a burden.” Now the Australians find camel meat lean and tasty and the fur and hides are used for crafts and clothing. The author did not say how much trip cost. Mine out of Rajasthan was reasonable and I got it from one of their Government sponsored hotels in Rajasthan. Now for a quiz for my generation: was the Arab on the package of Camel cigarettes riding the camel, standing beside the camel or leading the camel? Answer: he was not sitting on the camel, standing beside the camel or leading the camel. He was behind the pyramid in the picture taking a sh_t.

Happy Camel Riding. Mac


Axum Obelisk

The Axumite kingdom in northern Ethiopia was established between 200 and 100 BC and was once one of the four kingdoms of the world. The legendary Queen of Sheba reigned in the region eight or nine centuries later. The region is home to some of the world's obelisks carved with 'doors' and 'windows' and are thought, like Stonehenge, to have some solar or astronomical measuring role. One of the obelisks was looted from Axum by Mussolini in 1937 and in 1947, Italy signed a pledge to the UN to give back the obelisk – but has not followed through until now. The obelisk – the only one on two continents weighing over 100 tonnes – was situated in a square in Rome in front of what was once the 'Ministry for Italian Africa' (now the FAO building). The obelisk has been cut into three sections, and has been awaiting its return in a warehouse near Rome airport. The top piece of the obelisk is now scheduled to leave Rome on a cargo plane in April but this has been postponed because the Italian culture ministry says Axum airport does not have radar, so the pilots must wait for good weather.


UK Tax Free Goods

For UK travellers returning to the UK after a shopping spree could be in for good news. In the recent Budget speech, the Chancellor Gordon Brown announced the amount travellers can bring into the UK tax-free is likely to rise from £145 to £1,000.


Burma Revisited by Anna Roberts, Burma Campaign

A few months ago, we invited Globetrotter e-newsletter readers to send us their views on visiting Burma. One of the responses we included in February 2004 was from a retired British diplomat, Derek Tonkins. Since this time, Burma Campaign have been in touch and provided an alternative view on visiting Burma.

While there is much that is misleading and inaccurate in Derek Tonkin's article 'Burma Revisited', no-one can argue with the statement that “we should primarily be guided by the wishes and advice of the Burmese people”. However, the wishes of the Burmese people for or against tourism cannot be gauged from a dubious survey of anecdotal reports. In fact, with around 75% of Burma's people making their living from agriculture, most people in Burma have never met a tourist.

Aung San Suu Kyi The fact is that the call for a tourism boycott comes from Burma's elected leaders. The National League for Democracy (NLD), who won a landslide victory in Burma's 1990 election, remains the only party mandated to represent the Burmese people and it is a party that continues to draw the support and respect of people inside and outside the country. Burma's Government in exile, the National Coalition Government of the Union of Burma (NCGUB), supports the boycott and it is a position that has the backing of exile Burmese democracy groups around the world.

Derek Tonkin's criticism of Aung San Suu Kyi for not having “had time to discuss it [tourism policy] properly” in May 2002, when she had only just been released from house arrest, may leave him wondering what NLD policy really is. However, a look at their official statements will show that in 2003 the NLD confirmed that “the present situation has not reached the extent that tourists should be encouraged to visit Myanmar (Burma).”

Burma's military regime has identified tourism as a vital source of income and it is working hard to develop the industry. According to the Ministry of Tourism, its top two objectives in developing tourism are to generate foreign exchange earnings and attract foreign investment. Compared to its neighbours, Burma's tourism industry may be small but it is still earning a cash strapped regime millions of dollars every year. It seems odd that while Derek Tonkin is arguing for more tourists to visit Burma, he also admits that an increase in tourist numbers would help prop up the regime. Such a rise in tourist numbers would also result in an increase in investment to support that tourism. But investment in Burma does not benefit the vast majority of ordinary Burmese people. The regime spends nearly half the government budget on the military but less than 44p per person per year on health and education combined.

 The article also fails to mention that in Burma many human rights abuses are directly connected to the regime's drive to develop the country for tourists. Throughout Burma men, women and children have been forced to labour on roads, railways and tourism projects; more than one million people have been forced out of their homes in order to 'beautify' cities, suppress dissent, and make way for tourism developments, such as hotels, airports and golf courses. And these abuses are not confined to history. In February 2004, for example, Burmese soldiers rounded up ethnic Salons, or 'sea gypsies' who normally live on boats in the Mergui Archipelago, forced them to live on land and to take part in a 'Salon Festival' aimed at foreign tourists.

A further claim that “travel and tourism advance the cause of democracy” is totally unsubstantiated. Tourists in Burma rarely witness the internal repression so prevalent in the country, indeed much of Burma remains strictly off-limits to tourists. One tour operator to Burma recently remarked “I regularly travel throughout Myanmar and have never seen any of the abuses that appear in the Western press”.

The typical tourist on holiday in Burma is there to visit a beautiful country, look at the historic monuments and temples and enjoy an exotic holiday destination. But even for those tourists wishing to see Burma's problems for themselves, there is very little opportunity to discover the realities of life in Burma. Burmese people are not free to discuss politics with foreigners and can face punishment or imprisonment if the strict regulations for dealing with foreigners are not adhered to. For example, in September 2004 two Japanese tourists were arrested for not obtaining a visa within the country to visit a ruby-mine town in Shan State. Their two Burmese companions were charged with laws relating to hotel and tourism acts and their two Burmese hosts were charged with failure to report the presence of strangers to the authorities.

The people of Burma need our support and solidarity. We can provide that support very simply by listening to Burma's democrats and choosing not to holiday in Burma.

The Burma Campaign UK is part of a global movement for democracy in Burma and is the only national organisation in the UK dedicated to campaigning for human rights and democracy in Burma. For more information on Burma Campaign’s activities, see: www.burmacampaign.org.uk

New Moon Handbook on the South Pacific

This 1091-page travel guide describes and maps Tahiti and French Polynesia, Pitcairn, Easter Island, the Cook Islands, Niue, Tonga, the Samoas, Tokelau, Wallis and Futuna, Tuvalu, Fiji, New Caledonia, Vanuatu, and the Solomon Islands.

The 119 town plans and island maps are carefully labelled, without the confusing numbered map keys found in other guidebooks. For ease of reference, all internet and email addresses are now embedded in the listings.

There are sections on scuba diving, snorkelling, surfing, windsurfing, kayaking, yachting, cruising, hiking, fishing, and golf. Beaches, sightseeing, transportation, and places to stay and eat are thoroughly covered, as are the histories, economies, environments, cultures, and peoples of the Pacific region.

Author David Stanley has been writing about the South Pacific for over 25 years. Paul Theroux called his handbook “the most user-friendly travel guide to the South Pacific,” and it remains the leading guidebook to the Pacific islands.

For more information, visit southpacific.org

Which Anti-Malarial by Paul at Travelpharm

There are several different types of antimalarial medication, the choice of which depends on such factors as area to be visited, length of stay, your own medical history, medication you may already be taking, type of holiday (hotel, cruise, trekking etc).

These drugs can be loosely divided between the older formulations (Chloroquine and Proguanil) and the more recent preparations licensed for antimalarial use (Doxycycline, Mefloquine and Malarone).

Chloroquine has been used for around 50 years and during that time vast areas of the ‘malarious world’ have become resistant. As a 4-aminoquinoline derivative chloroquine prevents nucleic acid synthesis in actively dividing erythrocitic malarial parasites and thus DNA synthesis is affected. The drug is taken as two tablets weekly on the same day of each week, Countries still sensitive to Chloroquine include Costa Rica, Belize and Mexico.

Proguanil is a Biguanide which is metabolised in the body to cycloguanil, an active form that blocks the production of folic acid and subsequent synthesis of DNA. The human cells are not affected by this action except during pregnancy where your doctor will usually give a folic acid supplement to counteract a possible shortfall in the mothers cells.

As with Chloroquine there is widespread resistance now to Proguanil and it is often given in areas where the traveller is unable to take Chloroquine for some reason (such as sensitivity to the product). The Chloroquine and Proguanil when combined in one pack as Paludrine/Avloclor travel pack form a more formidable antimalarial and can be used in many more areas where the individual drugs would not be effective enough.

In the Travel Pack of Paludrine/Avloclor produced by Astra Zeneca the dosage of Proguanil is two daily which would be taken at the same time and the Avloclor (Chloroquine) is two weekly, also taken together. (A calendar pack gives an easy format and prevents mistakes in dosage whilst away.) Proguanil/Chloroquine is used in countries such as Sri Lanka, Nepal and most of India. These preparations can be purchased without prescription from Pharmacies.

The ‘newer’ group of antimalarials are helping to prevent malaria in areas where resistance has become a major problem, the malaria parasites being incredibly adept at mutating and hence overcoming the drugs used against them.

Malarone is Atovoquone and Proguanil combined to give a combination of an antiprotozoal and a biguanide. The dosage is one tablet daily for adults usually taken one or two days before entering the malarious area, during and for seven days on leaving. There is also now a paediatric formulation for children.

Lariam (Mefloquine) is a 4-aminoquinoline (as in Chloroquine) and in adults is taken as one tablet weekly. To check for side effects your doctor will often prescribe these at least two and a half weeks before travel, during and for four weeks on return.

Last but not least is Doxycycline a well tried and tested tetracycline antibiotic given as the hyclate. This was found to have marked antimalarial properties as well as being an antibiotic. It is usually given one week before travel (if it has never been taken before), during and for four weeks on return.

These last three products are prescription only and can only be obtained from a Pharmacy on supply of a private prescription issued by your doctor or travel clinic. Depending on your medical history etc., your doctor will decide which of these preparations are suitable for your travels.

Chloroquine for example is not normally given if you suffer from psoriasis or epilepsy. If taking Warfarin for blood thinning always check this out with your doctor, and likewise if pregnant or hoping to become pregnant then again you must consult your doctor first before taking an antimalarial drugs.

Your G.P. or Travel Nurse will check out the area you are about to visit and together with medical history and knowledge of the type of holiday will prescribe the relevant antimalarial.

For prices and supply of any of these preparations you can log on to www.travelpharm.com or ring us on 01395 233771

Funny signs

I was on the Lewis Pass in New Zealand and I saw a sign at a petrol station which stated, instead of petrol and diesel prices, ARM and LEG, gave me a chuckle

Interesting Facts

1. The USA has more personal computers than the next 7 countries combined.

2. Americans and Icelanders go to the pictures on average 5 times a year, while Japanese go only once.

3. The United States spends more money on its military than the next 12 nations combined.

4. Kazakhstan is the world's largest landlocked country.

5. Most people live in poverty in most African countries.

6. Only two countries in the world are doubly landlocked: Liechtenstein and Uzbekistan.

7. Senior gentlemen might consider a trip to Russia, where there's two over 65 women for every man.

8. Sick of crowds? Try Greenland where there's 38 sq km per person.

9. Sri Lanka has lowest divorce rate in the world – and the highest rate of female suicide.

10. South Korea is the heliport capital of the world.

CD-rom ‘Kiribati, a personal report’ available now!

This attractive CD gives by means of 10 videos, 700 original photographs with explanations and 60 stories a colourful and varied picture of the country and people of the atoll-state in the heart of the Pacific.

Please visit http://www.kiribati.nl for more information.

If Westernisation suits sir… stay there! If you’re open minded try the smiley coast by Michelle

Michelle writes: I felt compelled to write about my second visit to The Gambia, it was all so different and held so many new experiences for me than from my first visit back in February this year. I also appear to have 'dodged' the bumsters – as I got to know and befriend a few the first visit – hey life is hard they need to live yeh! And you fail to mention poverty in Gambia – as a 'developing country' in your news letter! I appreciate bumsters can be annoying – I just tend to say 'no abaracca' (thank you) and emphasise I'm staying at Kololi compound like a Gambian and they leave me alone!

Yes, I stayed at a compound/lodge (£6 per night) and was no 5 star hotel – but if travellers want to experience The Gambia, what better way than to live the true Gambian experience? Ok sometimes it is a trickle from the cold water shower, the electricity is on 50% of the time, the two ring gas cooker is outside, and there’s a flea bitten dog guarding the gates to the compound..but hey my Gambian friends can visit – they are not excluded as they were when I stayed on a complex. I'd also like to mention the compound like the one mentioned below was moderately clean enough!

The benefits of befriending Gambian people whether they are bumsters or taxi drivers or people from my friend Fakeba's compound – and they do not have the luxury of a toilet or running water there (water from the well in buckets) – or adequate schools for the children – (a tin hut!) is sharing experience. One of the best true experiences was sharing Koriteh holiday – the end of Ramadam with 14 adults and 10 children all living in one compound (about 8 one bedroomed houses) and sharing together excellent food from 4 large bowls and green tea. The children so nice and happy with no toys dressed in their Sunday best, the women worked so hard to make the meal. And other children and friends all come around from other compounds..is sooo nice.

So I have my best soul mate Fakeba to show me around – I am charged as a Gambian not as a tourist..and my money is going into the local economy and not to the 'middle man' in an hotel! This cuts my costs down by at least 50%. So try the market in Serrekunda – I feel I was the only white person there – but food shopping is much cheaper than the supermarket – and as fresh – though the meat market was something else! (Very hot with flies and smelled!) though the food my friends cooked for me after – wow! So I return in kind..it is not hard, what I can save I can give – especially to the children. Please don’t ever go to the Gambia without some clothes for them or stationery for their school (special mention for Karin Nursery School, Serrekunda). Or why not give stationery to the children in a compound who do not go to school – less than 50% of the children can read or write.

So my new experiences apart from those I mention above? Seeing dolphins coming back from St James Island – look out for them, and its a wonderful swim there! Seeing the women going out on their small canoes to pick oysters at Lamin Lodge.. my favourite place.. Seeing monitor lizards at Bijilo (monkey park). I'd also recommend going to Brufut fishing village – I rode by bike – but I’m sure there are easier ways to get there – saw cows being herded on the beach and the boats were so colourful – is sooo beautiful.

I would say more about less beautiful encounters I witnessed between my friends and the police…. but I may get censored!

I'd like to give a special mention to Kotu Point beach bar..one of the best and only bars that does not discriminate against Gambians trying to make a living by selling things.. or 'hanging out' there… the views are wonderful as are my friends and the music there – and especially 'bongo man' who will teach anyone to play! I’d also like to say to all you tourist not happy with Gambia – please remember it is a developing country that does not have the same access to health care, sanitation, education, social security and employment we in the west are privileged to have.. the culture is different – celebrate it along with all the similarities of humanity we all share! Share a smile on the smiley coast yeah – it is nice to be nice! I'm going back for more smiles next March… and especially looking forward to meeting my friend Fakeba's family who are Mandinka 180 miles up the river Gambia:)