The following is an extract from Henry from Hawaii’s website which has lots of interesting links and provides much background to this memorable trip to Molokai. To find out more info, take a look at:

The research vessel Atlantis is a state-of-the-art oceanographic ship, delivered in 1997, which launches the well-known deep diving submersible Alvin. I was invited to join the 14 Nov voyage departing Puntarenas, Costa Rica for an area in the rift zone northeast of the Galapagos Islands. This deep-sea odyssey, configured to retrieve borehole information from both the rift area northeast of the Galapagos and the deep trench area west of central Costa Rica, was essentially to help more precisely determine the subduction mechanisms of plate tectonics. Incidentally, the daily location of the R/V Atlantis (AGOR-25) can be viewed online along with its recent track.

I flew from Chicago, via Mexico City, arriving very early in the morning and stayed at the Posada Aeropuerto near the airport for a relatively few hours until I started exploring the Poas volcanic area and later in the day driving to the capital, San Jose, for an overnight stay. The next day was spent visiting the city sights such as the National Museum and the evening was given to travelling some sixty miles west to Puntarenas. As usual, the wet season afternoon showers were heavy but nothing large enough to impede any plans. Incidentally, the wet or green season as they like to call it there, ends just about mid-November and the rest of the time the weather was excellent.

In Puntarenas, I stayed at the recommended Hotel Tioga with a good view of the beach looking south to the sea. It was a much welcomed stay and very quiet compared to the constant noise of San Jose. I even enjoyed all two stations on the local television scene and the big and inclusive breakfast. At first light from my balcony, I could see the m/v Atlantis riding at anchor almost due south of the hotel.

Puntarenas is both a fishing port and a resort centre on the west central coast of Costa Rica. It is situated on a four-mile-long spit that extends east-west from the narrow waist of Costa Rica. Its tourist activities consist primarily of water-related attractions; however, excursions to the cloud forest at Monteverde and to San Jose, for example, may be accomplished as day trips. This is not the case for the volcanic areas of Arenal Volcano, Poas Volcano and Irazu Volcano inasmuch as the distances to these areas generally are too great when starting from Puntarenas.

I caught a water taxi to the Atlantis and was introduced to the ship by its most hospitable captain, George Silva. The research vessel is a remarkable self-contained workshop of the deep with a most competent staff of high-calibre people. Later in the day the scientist in charge, Dr Keir Becker of the University of Miami, embarked with his group of sea-going scientists. It was a most impressive group.

The first two days at sea were involved in heading almost due south some 600 miles to the first dive site at 1*14’N/83*44’W. The next day was taken up with Alvin diving to 11,500ft to two boreholes to retrieve information pertaining to physical conditions within the wells. In addition, sampling was made of the water content for evidence of bacteria that have been residing in the deep areas beneath the floor of the ocean. NASA apparently is interested in these results as they will also be attempting to retrieve evidence of bacteria that might have resided on such remote areas as Mars.

The following two days were spent travelling north northwest to a second dive site at 9*39’N/86*11’W where Alvin was sent down 14,000ft or almost three miles to retrieve data from the deep trench that parallels the western coasts of both North and South America. On the outside of Alvin, we attached a bag of Styrofoam cups with various messages and logos only to see them shrink to inch-high thimble-sized curiosities due to the huge pressure exerted at those depths.

The last leg of the voyage covered approximately 100 miles as we headed east around the Nicoya Peninsula back to Puntarenas. Incidentally, during the cruise we saw dolphins. turtles and pilot whales. Overall, it was a most successful and enjoyable voyage.

The fifty-mile drive from Puntarenas to the San Jose international airport took two hours on the narrow two-lane Pan American Highway and, after another overnight at the Posada Aeropuerto, an early flight to Chicago completed this portion of the trip. The flight track brought us over Guatemala City and the view to the west at the string of coastal volcanoes, some of them smoking, was marvellous. Lake Atitlan was clearly visible in the early morning and I took an awful lot of pictures. Even smoking Popocatepetl (18,000ft) and snow-covered Ixtacihuatl near Mexico City presented calendar-quality photo opportunities.

The entire trip was rewarding and I would hope to accompany the Atlantis on some future research voyage.

If you would like any further information, please contact Henry by email: Nowicki@webtv.net

Discusss this article in our new forum

Thank you to all those who wrote in to our debate.

Bernard from the US wrote in to say, “A quick stop in a place shouldn’t necessarily qualify as “having been to a place”. According to such thinking, I have travelled to Canada, though I was only there one day on the Canadian side of Niagara Falls. Also, I travelled to Amsterdam, though I was only there for a weekend; doing a last quick bit of European sightseeing before heading back to the states. I believe the essential point of travel, is to gain some degree of familiarity with a geographic area & experience with the local culture; ideally in order to come away with a greater understanding & appreciation of the place where you have been. A person just stepping foot on foreign soil for a day or two, just isn’t going to cut it. However, I understand there are others who may disagree. In reality, anything less that this is just basic sightseeing”.

Richard, also from the US, wrote in to say: “I have had this problem a number of times. I don’t count an airport stopover as a visit. If you never leave the airport building (or step more than a few feet from the riverbank as the person in Feb e-news did in Laos), you shouldn’t count it. I believe that to be fair, one needs to experience some of the country, even if it’s only a one-hour guided tour or a bus ride into the nearest city. Involvement with a local resident also would help validate the visit, even if it’s only buying a snack from a street vendor (outside of

the airport/dock area). Sixty-seven “real” visits and counting!”

What do you think? Write in and let the Beetle know.

Discusss this article in our new forum

Los Angeles International Airport, code LAX is some 15 miles or 25 km away from the city of LA. It can be contacted by phone on: +1 310 646 5252. There are 8 terminals as follows:

Terminal 1 is for America West, Southwest and US Airways.

Terminal 2 is for Northwest flights plus Air Canada, Air New Zealand, ATA, Hawaiian, KLM, Virgin Atlantic and others.

Terminal 3 serves Alaska, American, Frontier, Horizon and Midwest Express.

Terminal 4 is the American Airlines terminal.

Terminal 5 is for Aeromexico, American, Delta, Spirit, Vanguard and other airlines.

Terminal 6 serves Continental, Copa, National and some United Airlines flights.

Terminal 7 is the United Airlines terminal.

Terminal B The Tom Bradley International Terminal serves most non-US airlines.

Back in the 1920s, today’s LA airport stands on the site of wheat and barley fields and what was back then part of Southern California’s wealthy ranching land.

Although there was no federal money available for investment, LA’s Chamber of Commerce promoted the idea of building a municipal airport on the land even though flying was still a fledgling activity. In 1928 they chose Mines Field from a list of 27 possible sites, named after a real estate agent called William W. Mines who represented the ranching interests. For years, the people of LA refused to call their airport anything else. The city leased 640 acres for ten years and aviation got an immediate boost when America’s National Air Races brought the crowds flocking to Mines Field to see pilots like the legendary Charles Lindbergh.

Los Angeles Municipal Airport was officially dedicated in 1930 when the lease was extended to 50 years. The depression years were hard for LA until the arrival of such as Douglas, Northrop and North American who established the area as an aircraft manufacturing centre. After the Depression, airlines increasingly came to LAX and to encourage further investment, the city bought the lease and became full owners of the land.

As a result of WW2, Southern California and the area around LA had become the hub of America’s aircraft industry. The airport management had already laid its post-war plans and in 1946, with all five major airlines installed, commercial operations began. Five years later, as world routes were developed, Los Angeles added ‘International’ to its title and in 1952 it made its first profit. A new terminal was built, the forerunner of huge development as the jet age arrived and the ten million passenger mark was reached in 1965. Since then expansion projects have come thick and fast with a $700 million improvement program, started in 1981, providing two new terminals and a $3.5 million cargo centre. Hangar Number One, the first building ever constructed at Los Angeles Airport in 1929, is still in use and is listed on the National Register of Historic Places. LAX has never looked back!

For information by e-mail, infoline@airports.ci.la.ca.us

Discusss this article in our new forum

Trade Aid’s next group tour is a unique opportunity to be involved in an 8 day, self-drive 4WD safari through the unspoilt countryside of Southern Tanzania. The route is via the Selous Game Reserve, the world’s largest. As usual, group rates and airfares etc give a good price reduction. The price for readers of the Globetrotters e-newsletter is £999 per person, including flights from the UK and transfers.

For further details and bookings contact:

TRADE AID – Burgate Court, Burgate, Fordingbridge, Hampshire SP6 1LX UK

Tel: +44 (0) 1425 657774; Fax: +44 (0) 1425 656684; E-mail:tradeaid@netcomuk.co.uk

Discusss this article in our new forum

Journalist, historian and novelist Jan Morris will share her love of writing and travel with an audience at the Royal Geographical Society (with IBG) on Tuesday 15th April.

It promises to be an enlightening evening: Jan Morris “one of the most remarkable literary careers in the second half of the twentieth century” (The Guardian), has been writing for over fifty years and is a major figure in journalism travel writing in Britain and the United States. Major reporting landmarks include coverage (as James Morris) on the British ascent of Everest the day before HRH Queen Elizabeth’s Coronation in 1953 – an event that touched the world. Since then she has gone on to write over thirty books about her travels around the world, covering the British Empire, Europe, Venice, Hong Kong, Sydney, Spain to name a few.

Described in the New York Times as “perhaps the best descriptive writer of our time”, Jan Morris is renowned for her unique writing style – her use of peculiar words, her personal perspective and her descriptive and imaginative prose which captures the spirit of the place she is writing about. In her own words she says “The best way to find out about a place is wander around. Wander around, alone, with all your antennae out thinking about what’s happening and what you see and what you feel”.

Date: Tuesday 15th April 2003

Time: 7.00 pm

Location: RGS-IBG, 1 Kensington Gore, London SW7 2AR

Details: An informal interview, travel writer and journalist Jan Morris talks to Libby Purves about her love of travel and writing.

Cost: £5 per ticket

Ticket Request: Events Hotline on +44 (0) 20 7591 3100 or email: events@rgs.org To view more details, visit: www.rgs.org

Discusss this article in our new forum