Journalist, historian and novelist Jan Morris will share her love of writing and travel with an audience at the Royal Geographical Society (with IBG) on Tuesday 15th April.

It promises to be an enlightening evening: Jan Morris “one of the most remarkable literary careers in the second half of the twentieth century” (The Guardian), has been writing for over fifty years and is a major figure in journalism travel writing in Britain and the United States. Major reporting landmarks include coverage (as James Morris) on the British ascent of Everest the day before HRH Queen Elizabeth’s Coronation in 1953 – an event that touched the world. Since then she has gone on to write over thirty books about her travels around the world, covering the British Empire, Europe, Venice, Hong Kong, Sydney, Spain to name a few.

Described in the New York Times as “perhaps the best descriptive writer of our time”, Jan Morris is renowned for her unique writing style – her use of peculiar words, her personal perspective and her descriptive and imaginative prose which captures the spirit of the place she is writing about. In her own words she says “The best way to find out about a place is wander around. Wander around, alone, with all your antennae out thinking about what’s happening and what you see and what you feel”.

Date: Tuesday 15th April 2003

Time: 7.00 pm

Location: RGS-IBG, 1 Kensington Gore, London SW7 2AR

Details: An informal interview, travel writer and journalist Jan Morris talks to Libby Purves about her love of travel and writing.

Cost: £5 per ticket

Ticket Request: Events Hotline on +44 (0) 20 7591 3100 or email: events@rgs.org To view more details, visit: www.rgs.org

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‘But do you actually do any good?’

As a foreign aid worker I often get that question, usually asked rhetorically by my travelling friends who have long ago made up their minds that ‘expats’ are a waste of space. They punctuate their prejudice with pithy anecdotes from their travels – tales of drunken UN workers they saw picking up girls in bars, the 4×4 cars with logos of famous charities spotted on safari in African game parks. Or the aid workers who commandeered a luxury local villa (complete with swimming pool) upwind from the refugee camp.

And many foreign aid workers are as quick to stereotype travellers. There is the bargain-hunting backpacker who barters locals under the poverty line, or the holidaymaker glued behind a video camera who wanders into a war zone.

I recently saw these counterpoints crystallised in a string of messages posted on the Internet, on a travellers’ bulletin board. The comments kicked off with a backpacker in Africa who called foreign aid workers ‘the ultimate travel snobs, on some kind of human suffering safari’. Another weighed in with: “The majority of foreign workers I have come across in east and central Africa are just there for the money and good life.”

Aid workers – who obviously are tuned into travellers’ web sites – quickly hit back. Said one: “Can you imagine what it was like in post-genocide Rwanda? I can, I was there. So if aid workers want to get drunk and blow off a little steam then I can understand.” Another added: “What the hell business does a back-backer have being in either a war-zone or a disaster site? Chances are good that they are getting in the way.”

And so it flowed on with arguments launched from both sides of the divide. I read with great interest, perhaps because I have a foot in both camps. I had worked in long-haul adventure travel years before I became a Logistician for MSF. So I have met a myriad of traveller types, just as I now know a kaleidoscope of aid workers, of varying competencies and qualities.

I like to think there is good on both sides.

Travel is the world’s biggest industry and potentially a huge power for economic good. Tourism, properly managed, can generate a quick flow of cash from rich to poor pockets. And those hard-bitten backpackers (the same ones who slag off aid workers) are the pioneer species of their type – hardy weeds who spread into those corners of the globe still ‘caution strongly advised’ by the Foreign Office, but precursors for more lucrative tourism that will surely follow if better times come.

Do aid workers do good? I can only talk from my own experience. As a field worker for Médecins Sans Frontières in Colombia I have never doubted for a minute the value of our project. I worked with MSF in the conflict zone, helping get mobile health clinics to a civilian population terrorised by opposing war gangs; guerrillas, paramilitaries or drug gangs. In most cases these villages were abandoned by the state, or worse subjected to barbarities by the same state forces supposedly there to protect them.

Often we were the only outsiders to reach these villages. I will never forget the joy of the campesinos who come to greet us. Just our presence in this troubled zone was as vital as our medical work. Alongside our local and dedicated Colombian counterparts, we ran risks every day to get our work done, and as expats ‘in charge’ we often worked months without a day off. It was not a holiday.

Yes, I admit, at first I was thrilled at the ‘exclusivity’ of our mission, seduced perhaps by the frisson of being a one-and-only in the backwoods of a country at war. No, I can’t guarantee that our work – however welcome in the short term – will affect the torturous path of Colombia’s 40-year war.

Because of course aid workers cannot cure all of the world’s ills, any more than travellers and tourism can provide a post-op panacea. Both have the power for good and harm.

But I would like to see those lush hills of Colombia to be traversed by happy mountain-bikers. The campesinos, in between farming avocados, guiding birdwatchers and orchid lovers along the banks of clear streams. Homesteaders sell bowls of fragrant chicken stew to grateful hikers. The abandoned health posts are repaired, the village schools get their roofs back, the bullet holes are plastered over, and a teacher welcomes his young smiling students. Then I would be happier to be on holiday than working as an expat.

Steve has been on 3 missions for medical aid charity Médecins Sans Frontières (MSF) in Colombia and El Salvador. He is currently in Angola as an MSF Logistician on a primary health care and nutrition project. Take a look at www.uk.msf.org for more info on volunteering for MSF.

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We reported back in January that UK based Ryanair planned to buy Buzz, a rival low cost airline. Buzz serves 21 destinations in England, France, Germany, Holland and Switzerland. Surprise surprise, Ryanair plans to drop 18 Buzz routes, including Paris, Amsterdam and Frankfurt that are expected to be dropped permanently.

When Ryanair bought buzz from KLM, KLM told passengers not to book Buzz flights after March until its new owners revealed where it would continue to serve.

Many regular UK passengers own holiday homes in remote parts of France, served by Buzz routes to airports such as Poitiers, Limoges and Bergerac – which may no longer be served by Ryanair. Some passengers who had booked to destinations including Bordeaux, Caen and Frankfurt, will now have to abandon their travel plans or rebook at greater expense on other carriers. Some are planning to take legal action over lost money on hotel bookings and car hire. A buzz spokesman said passengers would receive refunds for cancelled flights but added the airline would not pay other compensation. KLM called Ryanair ‘irresponsible’ for failing to keep its passengers informed.

BUZZ ROUTES CANCELLED

• Charles de Gaulle
• Dijon
• Amsterdam
• Marseille
• Toulon
• Tours
• Bergerac
• Caen
• Geneva
• Chambery
• Brest
• Almeria

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Iris is a British lady of considerable character and pluck, on a 23 week overland expedition from Quito in Ecuador to Caracas in Venezuela. After this, she plans to do a 3-month voluntary placement in Ecuador, and then visit Central America for another overland trip between Panama City and Mexico City, ending up with perhaps another 2-month voluntary placement somewhere in South America again. This amazing journey will take Iris one year. Here is an extract from Iris’ journey notebook.

30^th November cont.: Cuenca

Onward, ever onward, to Cuenca. By the time it had reached 1845 and we had been on the road for 11 hours we were all becoming increasingly impatient to arrive. Darkness had descended, quite a lot of the time, after leaving our lunchtime site, it was raining heavily, and for hours we had had to make our own fun in the back of the truck, playing cards, some of the lads giving us a selection of the music they had brought on mini discs and mini disc players – most of it being quite presentable – Robbie Williams, Abba, Kylie, to name a few, although when a Turkish member of our group produced a CD of Turkish music, the reception was somewhat mixed, and when someone produced a couple of CDs of Australian folk songs, there were a lot of jeers, even from the Aussies amongst us, about songs like “Tie my Kangaroo down sport!” or “Waltzing Matilda” and others of that ilk.

One of our amusements, rather unkindly but not intended so, was our 68 yr old, Judith, my room-mate in Baños. Poor Judith, she had been very jet-lagged when she had arrived in Quito, but she had had four nights to recover, so everyone was very amused when she proceeded to fall asleep. She was sitting with one of our younger men (Matt is about 33, I would say, and he is a quiet man) and he had an inflated neck cushion and had dozed off leaning against the window (the seats are like public bus seats, there are no head rests and support ends at just below the shoulders) so poor Judith was lolling back with mouth wide open, catching flies.

Kindly, our policeman, Paul, who was sitting sideways on behind Judith decided she had to be given a cushion and so a sleeping bag, rolled up in its sack was produced and placed strategically behind Judith’s head, which seemed successful, but as the sleeping bag roll was in a large empty cavity between Judith’s front-facing seat and Paul’s side-facing seat, every movement of the bus sent it sliding away from Judith, or Judith sliding away from it. Another sleeping bag roll was produced but then Judith would gradually slip between the two rolls! Then it was decided to wedge the sleeping rolls in place with a water bottle and this did the trick but then Judith found Matt’s shoulder and snuggled up to him! This just went on and on throughout the day. Both Matt and Judith would wake up at intervals but gradually both (Judith more than Matt) would drop off into slumberland once more and the whole pantomime would be played out again, very much to everyone’s amusement!) We reckoned Judith slept for at least seven of the 13 hours we were on the road!

Eventually, after many small disappointments as one large town vanished into the darkness to our rear which had been mistakenly identified by us as our destination, we arrived in Cuenca and got to our hotel. But we had all to share 3 or 4-bedded rooms, although that is par for the course when so many have to be accommodated in large city hotels. I shared with three other ladies – Alison, Eren (our Turkish lady) and Judith, and after we had all got settled we went off across the road to an Italian restaurant for a meal (as our last meal had been some 8 hours previously on the side of the road), however, at 2130 we were not too keen to eat anything too much and Judith and Eren just had soup and a roll, and Alison and I had pasta.

Today, the rain has vanished and it is quite sunny in Cuenca. We had a light breakfast (rolls and jam and scrambled egg) and then I decided to go my separate way. Judith and Alison and Eren wanted to go to an archaeological museum out of town, but I wanted to wander around on my own. Unfortunately Eren is ill today, being sick and feeling poorly so in the end we left her in the hotel room bedded down. I don’t know what she had eaten and neither did she, that had made her sick, but it is not diarrhoea, just sickness, so hopefully, she will be recovered by tomorrow for our next 366 km journey to Punta Sal where we will be camping on the beach for 3 days.

I think this first week is being used to break us in gently to the rigours ahead of us – the jungle trip and the Inca Trail – so some long journeys have to be faced and some hotels are used so that we are not faced with too much hard work putting up tents every time we arrive at a destination, and camping to show us what we are in for when there are no hotels to stay in. So think of me on 1 Dec 02 having to face putting up a tent after a 12 hour journey!

Today in Cuenca I have just walked round the city centre, looking at the local shops and populace. I got to a little square and realised there was an art museum there so went in to have a look round. The young security guard, who watches over everyone coming in, got me to sign the book and put my passport number and name in the book and then was determined to practice his rather limited English on me. Anyway, to cut a long story short he ended up giving me a guided tour and I asked him if I could take his photo, but although he agreed he was determined the photo was going to have me in it as well, so I obliged him, when he produced a young friend to do the honours! After the guided tour I told him that I was returning to Ecuador next year for maybe two stints of 3 months and 2 months and asked him for his address so that I could not only send him the photo but also perhaps visit him when I return. He is a university student working as a guard at the museum during the day and has another evening job as well to bring in the money while he is studying. He is at Rio Bamba university and hopes to travel round the world when he has finished his studying. He is about 18, I would say, and demanded that we kiss each other on the cheek before parting to show our new-found friendship and the hope of it continuing in the future, so I obliged and insisted we do it the French way of kissing on both cheeks! Then as I left, he ran after me “I don’t know your name! What is your name?” And I said: “Francisco, you have it in your book, remember, I signed in?!” And he was so relieved!

If you’d like to contact Iris, whether to wish her luck with her trip or to ask questions about her itinerary and places visited, I am sure she would like to hear from you. She can be contacted on: irisej2002@yahoo.co.uk

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For those seeking the ultimate adventure in natural surroundings, a recommended place that has captured the imagination of many travellers is the Sepik River Region, located on the north coast of Papua New Guinea.

Here you will find everything from ancient cultures and traditional arts and crafts to exotic birds and wildlife including crocodiles. A popular tourist activity is river canoeing, using motor-powered traditional canoes. The region is world-renowned for the 1,100-kilometre long Sepik River, its ancient and primitive arts and is considered Papua New Guinea’s equivalent to the Amazon and the Congo rivers.

The mere mention of the word the Sepik also conjures up images of the secret men’s house, the haus tambaran but its best-kept secret is the Sepik Blue (Dendrobium lasianthera), a species of orchid that is endemic to this region.

But the Sepik is much more than just the river, its people and arts. It’s about magnificent coastlines with white sandy beaches, beautiful volcanic islands, tropical rainforests, grassy plains, high plateaus and plenty of war history.

The region’s provincial capital and centre for commerce and an international airport is Wewak, a coastal town littered with remnants from World War 2 and the only major town in PNG with a white-sandy beachfront, perfect for swimming, light surf and as a perfect anchorage for visiting yachts.

The Sepik River region’s fame and importance is largely due its richness in art and the river itself serves as a source of inspiration and influence for its people, their lifestyle, traditional beliefs, customs and art forms, reflected in statues, masks, neck-rests, stalls, hooks, shields, baskets, pottery and skin cutting.

Sepik art is known to be richer and having more variety than any other region in the Oceania Region. The main area that is rich in art is the middle river region, a densely populated area with nearly 30 large villages of the Iatmul language group people. Tucked away in this corner of Papua New Guinea is the small river village of Aibom that has captured the attention of the ceramic world with their masterpieces of pottery. Many potters and researchers from around the world visit the Aibom pottery village every year.

From the air, the Sepik River and its many tributaries and estuaries looks more like a collection of brown snakes of numerous sizes, meandering over the forests floor for 1,100 km on its way to the Bismark Sea.

The Upper Sepik is mountainous and known for its insect cults while the Lower Sepik is primarily swampland and its people’s life and culture is based around their relationship with and reverence for the crocodile.

The Middle and Lower Sepik experience seasonal floods that come as a blessing because they sweep hard wood logs down-stream that are collected and used as material for building houses and carvings. Up and down the river, people make use of the rising river levels to move between villages, attend to their clan and tribal obligations and trade fish, sago and clay pots.

Wewak is a spread-out town and is clogged in places by swamps and mangroves and has an extensive mountain range as its backdrop. For the holidaymaker, this is a scenic town and has its fair share of war history to tell. The town and surrounding hills are littered with remnants from the war. A must-see is Mission Hill that houses Japanese AA guns, the look-out at Boys Town and Wom War Memorial Park, the site of the Japanese surrender in WWII.

Further out of town, a recommended stop is Maprik, south of Wewak and known for the haus tambaran and yam ceremonies and masks while Angoram is the best place to pick up Kambot storyboards.

For those wanting a feel of PNG’s own version of the sun, sand and the surf, there are many off-shore islands close to Wewak that are perfect for this activity, among them, Mushu Island which has some of the most pristine blue waters, high pounding waves and unexplored coral reefs in PNG.

North of Wewak, the volcanic island of Kairuru is worth exploring. The main area of focus is the Catholic mission station and school and there is enormous potential for nature-based and adventure activities. You can trek following traditional gardening routes or if you would rather stay close to the sea, there is snorkelling or you can choose to observe thermal springs or take a hike to a beautiful natural lake in the island’s mountainous interior.

The author, Steven Mago is a journalist, travel writer and tourism promoter. He was born in Papua New Guinea but for the time being is living in Sydney. Steven can be contacted on: stevenmago@hotmail.com

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