Ian, a former teacher, has worked on the Mikindani project, in Tanzania, for nearly two years and was responsible for the transformation of the Education section of Trade Aid. The legacy he leaves behind is one of sound training and education structures as well as a vision for the future conservation of the Mikindani area and its natural resources. Ian was responsible for creating the enormously successful Mikindani Tree Nursery, which, in conjunction with the local primary schools, is helping to halt the massive soil erosion problems in the area, through education and replanting. The Beetle met Ian and shared a few beers when she was last in Mikindani and can vouch for the terrific job that he and the other volunteers are doing in Mikindani.

Well about a year after I intended to leave, I'm finally going to escape the grip of Mikindani. What a place and what a project. The one thing I've found here is that you exist on two levels, high as a kite, exhilarated by the place and some small achievement that has been made or deflated and worn down by the frustrations of living and working here. There is rarely a happy medium, which is annoying as that is the state that the majority of the people in Mikindani seem to be able to achieve. I have stayed this long for a number of reasons. The people at the Boma and in Mikindani are almost to a man and woman friendly and welcoming, though I would not pretend to be closely integrated into the village even after 20 months. Language aside, the cultural and economic gap is massive and I would suggest insurmountable. Mikindani has a lovely ambience and is visually quite stunning. However to the casual observer it may appear more like a malarial infested swamp, its people living in mud huts, dressed in rags with cholera a recurring problem. You have to look beyond that though.

The project and the work have been a constant source of frustration though I think many worthwhile projects have been initiated and are now producing results. The renovation of the Boma is an awesome achievement and we must continue to spread the word of its existence to a wider audience both in Tanzania and beyond. The new volunteers have been fantastic company, have managed to keep themselves more or less healthy and achieved a great deal for Trade Aid and the Boma. Our returned volunteers Len and Alex continue to provide a vital input both on the ground in Mikindani and in the UK. It's proof of the fact that this place and project does change lives. We now have a rolling three-year plan that provides some direction for Trade Aid and should keep the volunteers gainfully employed. A couple of pet projects of mine have taken off. I'm proud of the Information Room and delighted that the tree nursery will continue to run next year and hopefully for years to come. In addition, many of the staff have developed beyond all recognition learning new skills in computers, English or other vocational activities. Developments on the hotel management side also bode well for the future.

I have also had the opportunity to travel in one of my favourite parts of the world, spending plenty of time bird watching, game viewing (which on a good day surpasses anything else the World has to offer) and generally being a natural history anorak. I've met so many great people, friendly, interesting and good company. Even the less savoury characters that occasionally pass through here have on reflection provided me with an endless source of amusement.

And finally I have had the company of the canine duo, Chagga and Diablo. Everyone says they're mad, but what I've come to realise is that you have to be mad to live here for an extended period. It's Catch 22; they are in fact superbly adapted to have a long and happy life in Mikindani. I'm sure some time in the future, I'll come back and share a small piece of that life with them.

Thanks to Sherie at Trade Aid. For more information on the work carried out by Trade Aid in Tanzania, see their website www.mikindani.com

Meeting news from our branches around the world.

Saturday 8^th June 2002 – London Meeting by Padmassana

This Saturday we were treated to two splendid talks, about two different areas of the world.

The first by Peter Eltringham entitled, “The Maya World” was on Mexico, Guatemala and Belize. Peter showed us temples from the Maya period (300-900 AD), many of which are being reclaimed by the jungle, to the extent that some even have trees growing on the top of them. We saw photos of huge Maya ceramic pots found in deep caves. We saw local life such as women weaving the colourful local textiles and the costumes being paraded during Holy Week fiestas. Peter showed us the kind of transport you can expect to have to use on a visit to the area, such as small planes, high wheeled 4WD's for negotiating the jungle and the “Chicken busses” used by the locals. Peter finished with some landscapes, turquoise coloured rivers, Fast flowing rivers that can only be negotiated using inflatable kayaks and beautiful blue coral lagoons, which are a divers delight! And once Peter had emerged from the jungles having avoided the deadly snakes, his last picture was of a hammock slung between tow trees on a beautiful tropical beach.

Our second speaker was Mary Russell, although her talk was entitled “Travelling around Syria, digressing to Baghdad”, she started with a story from the former Soviet Republic of Georgia. She told us that in order to get an extension to your visa, you have to “fall ill” the day before it runs out, but only a little bit ill! You then get a sick note from a friendly doctor stating that you are too ill to travel and lo and behold your visa gets a few more weeks added on!

Mary showed us the Syrian capital Damascus, from the plain doorways of the closely constructed buildings, the bakery with its fresh flat bread and the labyrinthine souks. She showed us one super photo of a popcorn seller, whose equipment was mounted to his bicycle complete with an exhaust pipe for the cooking gasses. On returning home from Syria Mary found on her doormat an invitation to visit Iraq. It was just after the events of September 11^th, but despite the uncertainty of the time Mary flew back to Damascus and then took a taxi to the Iraqi capital. Mary explained that to enter Iraq you have to have an AID's certificate, if you don't as she didn't you have the choice of paying US $60 to have the test or US $70 not to! Needless to say she chose the latter. Mary's slides of Baghdad included Saddam Hussain's Palace which he built next to the remains of what was once Babylon, Fountains, the university which is reputedly fifty years older than England's Oxford University, the hospitals full of smiling doctors and tragically ill children. We saw one positive side to the sanctions imposed by the west, Iraq now grows its own fruit and vegetables which in former years it just bought using its oil wealth. Mary's talk was a fascinating insight into two interesting and much misunderstood countries.

London meetings are held at The Church of Scotland, Crown Court, behind the Fortune Theatre in Covent Garden at 2.30pm the first Saturday of each month. There is no London meeting in August, but we will be back on Saturday 1^st September. For more information, you can contact the Globetrotter Info line on +44 (0) 20 8674 6229, or visit the website: www.globetrotters.co.uk

Jason Florio gave us some fabulous insights into life in Afghanistan and entertained us with some amazing stories of his time there.

We will NOT have a July meeting due to all of our summer travel plans and the July 4th holiday. Hope to see you August 3rd.

New York meetings are held at The Wings Theater, 154 Christopher Street (btw Greenwich St and Washington St), to the right of Crunch Fitness, in the Archive on the first Saturday of each month at 4 pm.

The annual Toronto & Ontario GT picnic on Georgian Bay (in Meaford) is upon us, and will be held on Saturday, July 13th, 2002. As usual, our host will be Vera Blowers, and the address is:

228 Eliza Street, Meaford, Ontario tel. 519-538-5729 Program: Arrive on Saturday around noon, bring some barbecuables/munchies/salads/deserts of your choice to share with others. There will be BBQ in the afternoon, a game of croquet or horseshoes (if that's your thing), a swim in Georgian Bay or you can just sit around and talk travel. The hardy types can pitch a tent and stay overnight, watch the sun rise from the lake, go for another swim, walk through Meaford or do whatever else you might wish to. If you would like to bring and show some new and interesting slides we'll have a slide projector & a carousel available. Directions: From Collingwood: Go West along Hwy 26 to Meaford. On the first lights turn right/north/towards the lake and down the hill to a school that is at the corner of Eliza Street. West on Eliza to #228. From Orangeville : North along Hwy10 to Flesherton (there is a little “jog” West on #10 between Primrose to Shelburne), in “downtown” Flesherton turn right on Hwy 4 and after about 4-5km left/North on #13 to Kimberley and from there on #7 all the way to Meaford. In Meaford on the lights (Hwy 26 & #7) go straight down the hill towards the lake etc. If you can give a ride to someone or you need a ride to get there, please contact me (Svatka Hermanek) by email by Friday, June 28 (I will be away from my computer from that date on) or by phone before July 3 (416-503-2933). I will try to arrange car pools. After this date call Vera Blowers at the above number. Hope to see you there.

For information on Ontario meetings, please contact: Svatka Hermanek:

shermanek@schulich.yorku.ca or Bruce Weber: tel. 416-203-0911 or Paul Webb: tel. 416-694-8259

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Meetings are held on the third Friday of January, March, May, September and November. Usually at the Woodsworth Co-op, Penthouse, 133, Wilton Street in downtown Toronto at 8.00 p.m.

The next Texas meeting will be completely open: please come and talk about your favourite place, travels, anecdote or listen to others!

A reminder that Texas meetings will start one hour earlier, at 2pm and not 3pm.

Meetings are held at 2pm at the New Braunfels Public Library, 700 E. Common Street in New Braunfels, Texas. The meeting ends at 5 p.m. If you would like to continue travel talk on a more informal basis, we plan to adjourn to the Hoity-Toit, a local New Braunfels establishment. If anybody would like to enquire about meetings or help Christina, please contact her on: texas@globetrotters.co.uk

On Saturdays there are three markets in one: the antique section is in the south between Chepstow Villas and Coleville Road (the Notting Hill Gate end); a fruit and vegetable market in the middle, runs from Coleville Road to Westway; and at the north end of the market you will find records, books, jewellery and trendy clothes, both new and second hand, along with a flea market.

There are said to be over 1,500 antique dealers here! This is an extremely popular location for tourists and locals alike, so be warned, it is a prime spot for pickpockets. There are lots of good pubs and cafes nearby where you can get refreshments after a hard day shopping.

It's obviously in Portobello Road, London W11 (underground: Notting Hill), open Fridays and Saturdays 8am to 3pm. You can also check out info on: Portobello Online

Next month: Brixton Market

Hola! mis amigos, I have been in San Pedro la Laguna, on the shores of Lake Atitlan, for the past three weeks, learning more Spanish and living with a lovely family. It was an insight into the lives of people here and I was glad to have the time to relax and rest after my long overland trip. The atmosphere in San Pedro could not have been better. No hassle, lots of learning, good weather and the lake as a lovely backdrop to everything. I saw a couple of video movies at Nick's Place and otherwise lived a quiet life.

I did get to Chichicastenango last Sunday for the market and that was a real change of scene. I refrained from buying all that I could see and just soaked up the ambience. As I will have the chance to re-visit the market with the next overland group there was no need to rush into anything. It was also the only rain I saw in three weeks. The benefit of this was to clear the air of dust so that, for the first time, I could see why Lake Atitlan is dubbed 'the most beautiful lake in the world'. It is certainly picturesque and well worth the visit. Mexico is next on my itinerary!

Greetings from San Cristóbal las Casas!

I have started my next overland trip and it is as different to the first as is possible to imagine. I got to Mexico almost three weeks ago from Antigua, having had my main bag of luggage “disappear” from my hotel. I have almost come to terms with it now but it was hard to accept that all my camping things, personal items, some new clothes and various other bits and pieces were no longer mine. The owner did not want to involve the police so we settled the matter in dollars cash but it doesn't really compensate for the loss. I am fine now and have replaced the necessary and am thankful for having sent so much home in Venezuela. The trip to Mexico was an overnight bus trip and suddenly I was in Mexico City. It is pretty high in altitude and very smoggy but it is just a bigger than average city and I had no trouble there at all. Lots of old and very elegant buildings in the centre, mariachi bands in Plaza Garibaldi, the Museo de Anthropologica, parks, palacios, an excellent metro system and a chance to catch my breath.

From there I went to Guanajuanato, a beautifully preserved colonial town about 4hrs drive north of Mexico City. Also a university town under a UN World Heritage site order. I had three days there, and except for the fact that some insect had me for a midnight feast in my hotel, I loved the place. Next stop a town 80 kms away called San Miguel de Allende, and two lovely evenings of music and traditional dances at a local festival. It was done with their magnificent San Rafael Cathedral for a backdrop and with lots of goodwill on the parts of both audience and performers. I then went to Guadalajara, Mexico's second city. It was surprisingly beautiful in the centre although I had only one day and could not do justice to its many advertised attractions. From there I descended further and had a hot and sticky day in Acapulco. It is as ritzy or as grungy as you like and was surprisingly attractive in a slightly citified/beach resort sort of way. Back into the hills and a night at the town of Taxco to wander the streets and try not to buy the mountains of silver on offer. It was full of cobbled streets and silver shops and they were all up hill!

Back to Mexico City and I succumbed to the tummy bug that I picked up somewhere so I did not get to see the Basilica of the Virgin of Guadalupe as I had planned, but I did meet my new leader, Wayne (40, mad, English Exodus driver) and the two (honest!) other fellows on my new “group”, Derry (retired 60+ Australian accountant) and Martin (34, English IT technician). Evidently the van has to be in Panama for a full group in August so they have to relocate it and decided to run the trip despite the lack of numbers. So far it has been great. All of us have travelled extensively and we never seem at a loss for something to say. And while we do not necessarily agree about everything we very quickly established that we wanted to have a good time and were prepared to discuss and find the best option for all. As you can imagine meal times are a group effort and there is no hassle when it comes to trying to do any activity as we fit in anywhere. Should be good – I'll keep you posted!

Since leaving Mexico City, we have had two nights in Oaxaco, visited our first ruins at Monte Alban and Mitla, travelled on to camp in the Sierra Altavesada at Jiquipilas, and now in San Cristóbal. From here we head towards the ruins of Palenque and then to Uxmal and Merida, Chichin Itza and on to the coast. It will evidently be hot and humid from here on and I will not always have email access so the next group letter will probably be from Antigua towards the end of the month.

Thanks Jacqui and keep us posted! If anyone would like to contact Jacqui, her e-mail is: jacquitrotter@yahoo.com

What have you seen on your travels? Drop a line to the Beetle! Beetle@globetrotters.co.uk

Anyone, anywhere in the world, who watched the news during the first half of the 1990s must know about Sarajevo. Sarajevo is the capital of Bosnia and Herzegovina, a small but green and mountainous country with 4 million people, bordered by Croatia to the south and west, and Yugoslavia to the east. The recent war (1992 – 1995) and heavy siege brought unwanted world attention to the city, not to mention approximately 10,500 dead citizens and over 100,000 wounded.

The war is definitely over, and modern day Sarajevo in 2002 has a lot to offer to a tourist. The city itself used to be a “must-visit” destination in the decades before the war, especially if you were visiting Bosnia. After the war, much money has been invested in Sarajevo on improving its infrastructure etc, to encourage the return of tourists, but so far, the visitor figures are disappointing.

Bosnia and Herzegovina is a Western Christian Country with experience of 4 centuries of Ottoman-Turk presence, which made Sarajevo a point where west and east, and north and south meet. Some call the city European Jerusalem, where in a circle of 100 meters one can see several churches, mosques and synagogues together existing and co-existing in peace for centuries. “Equal chances for all” was the motto of the city for centuries, attracting some 10 different religious communities to settle in the city.

There is something to do in Sarajevo all year round. Sarajevo is a big open-air museum, with unique architecture and artefacts from 4000 years of European history. There's plenty to see and do: drink a cold beer in one of the many street cafes, whilst watching the world pass by, one can see: public buildings, squares, fortresses, famous places such as where Archduke Franz Ferdinand was assassinated, igniting WW1, museums, churches, mosques, synagogues, old houses, and much, much more! ATM's are all over the place, as are Internet cafes.

One of the highlights to visit in Sarajevo is the tunnel that was the only supply line during the war for the city and the tunnel museum from the last war. As well as reading and signing the visitor's book, which is almost an historic document in itself, you can actually walk down a small part of the 800 metre long tunnel. You can watch a 20 minute long video, a documentary with real footage from the last war.

Sarajevo was a host to the 14th Olympic games 1984 and has a lot to offer to a winter tourist. Our mountains Igman and Bjelasnica ( 45 minutes by car or bus from city centre) offer skiing 6 months a year with all facilities such as ski-lifts etc. The city is a serious contender for the 2010 Winter Olympics!

Citizens from all of the countries in Western Europe, the U.S.A. and Canada do not need a visa to enter Bosnia and it is easy to get to Sarajevo: 7 international air carriers have routes to Sarajevo, including Austrian Air, Lufthansa, Swiss Air, and Malev. There are also trains and long distance buses connecting Sarajevo with the rest of Europe. These include a daily train from Zagreb, Croatia (9 hrs), and long distance international buses, e.g. from Split (6hrs) and Dubrovnik (5 ½ hrs).

There are hotels to stay, including a phenomenally expensive Holiday Inn. Generally speaking, a room in a modern hotel will cost 45 euros+ (US $45) per person. Staying in a hotel is more or less the same as in any country of the world and is to be recommended only for people that suffer from surplus of money and like being bored. Private accommodation is cheaper, but if your host doesn't speak English too well, and is not officially registered, (proved by ID card with photo + official seal of his/her firm), you'll probably be taken to rooms in some suburb of Sarajevo in a middle of nowhere, apart from being involved in illegal activity. Good hostels or private accommodation in the two main municipalities cost from 15 euros per person.

SARTOUR has a hostel which is situated 10 minutes walk from the historic centre of the city, and offers single, double and triple rooms for 15 euros per person with one of the best views of the city, quiet original Bosnian style atmosphere, and a courtyard and garden for night time schnapps drinking! They can provide services such as English speaking tourist guides for city tours etc. They also offer a big breakfast for 3 euros per person, bike rental, laundry facilities, self-catering, family and group facilities and give our best to make your stay secure and pleasant for fair and reasonable prices. Enjoy a glass or two of our famous Schnapps (plum brandy – 41% alc.), a warm welcome and hospitality.

If you would like to contact Sead to ask him about Bosnia, its history, staying in Bosnia, or touring the area, please e-mail him at: sartour@lsinter.net

Incidentally, all readers of the Globetrotter's E-Newsletter are eligible for a 10 % discount on accommodation in the Sartour hostel, and on tours around the city until 01.01.2003. Next month, the Beetle will be writing about her time in Bosnia.

About Ecuador – the country is the poorest in South America where the average salary is $90 per month. As with all countries, there are many people well off. It is possible to find a very nice hotel for $10 per night with breakfast or stay for hundreds; the Hilton is there. Climate wise, it has it all and no change of seasons being on the Equator, hence Ecuador. Very warm beaches, cool mountains and jungles. All is available via plane and excellent buses. Read up on the lonely planet and Ecuador.

Quito has the second oldest University in the Americas, Lima Peru being the first. Look up the hostel Maple on the web and stay in this part of Quito. There are many such places for $10 to $15/night. You will meet many fellow backpackers and can hook-up with them if alone. Lots of cafes to use the web and make calls home. If you want to take Spanish lessons you can stay with a family or just get private lessons at the numerous schools for a few dollars per hour. Art is wonderful, so bring back many items. The Inca people make their own paints and paint on leather not canvas. Stop them while having coffee on the street and haggle with them before buying to get to know them a little. They will have their special outfits and hats and usually a man and wife. They have to be the sweetest people on the earth. If you do not wish to return to Quito usually via plane because of time or go on to the Galapagos just keep heading south to Peru.

I was warned about Guayaquil's problems with muggings, plus it is hot and muggy-pon. There are several national parks and will take you to the top of the world with their many volcanoes or to the jungles. The people known for shrinking heads and dangling them from their waists come from these jungles. They are still very primitive but now give tours into their jungles. Roast monkey is still their meal of choice. Quito has many expedition companies to all these places.

Then hop a bus south and visit many of the antique Spanish towns, more state parks and spas. The only fairly good road is the Pan-Am highway. I had an Inca guide with horses and went into the Andes. The trails are so steep that without the horses could not have returned. The other roads along steep mountain gorges are very interesting. For $15 a day you can stay at mineral spring spas near Quenca and purify your body with organic foods, drinks, body washes/oils and massages. But, I go for the history and the Inca people. Go to the Indian markets; they are fascinating.

The Inca's meal of choice is deep fried hamster and hedgehog. Inca people are very shy and non-violent. Their civilization was the largest in the world prior to the industrial revolution. Then came the Spanish with small pox, venereal disease, TB, and slavery.

The biggest problem in the world is safe drinking water. I only drink bottled water. But, in Ecuador the locals water down certain juices, and South American fruits are wonderful. They are supposed to use water that is boiled, but hotels may have new help, thus ones ends up with G.I problems of a major magnitude. Get antibiotic Rx immediately. Medical help was excellent and very reasonable in the major cities such as Quito and Quenca; the doctors came immediately to my hostel and there are pharmacies everywhere. Luckily, I always carry 3 cans of those high calorie vitamin drinks and can be purchased in pharmacies; I prefer chocolate flavour, and these helped me through my toughest period of the illness, when I could barely get out of bed to get something to eat. These nutritional canned drinks were also useful on long bus journeys there, when sanitary food was not available. You also may want to carry a better quality toilet paper; it seems the paper in some countries resembles double 0 sandpaper.