Hola! mis amigos, I have been in San Pedro la Laguna, on the shores of Lake Atitlan, for the past three weeks, learning more Spanish and living with a lovely family. It was an insight into the lives of people here and I was glad to have the time to relax and rest after my long overland trip. The atmosphere in San Pedro could not have been better. No hassle, lots of learning, good weather and the lake as a lovely backdrop to everything. I saw a couple of video movies at Nick's Place and otherwise lived a quiet life.

I did get to Chichicastenango last Sunday for the market and that was a real change of scene. I refrained from buying all that I could see and just soaked up the ambience. As I will have the chance to re-visit the market with the next overland group there was no need to rush into anything. It was also the only rain I saw in three weeks. The benefit of this was to clear the air of dust so that, for the first time, I could see why Lake Atitlan is dubbed 'the most beautiful lake in the world'. It is certainly picturesque and well worth the visit. Mexico is next on my itinerary!

Greetings from San Cristóbal las Casas!

I have started my next overland trip and it is as different to the first as is possible to imagine. I got to Mexico almost three weeks ago from Antigua, having had my main bag of luggage “disappear” from my hotel. I have almost come to terms with it now but it was hard to accept that all my camping things, personal items, some new clothes and various other bits and pieces were no longer mine. The owner did not want to involve the police so we settled the matter in dollars cash but it doesn't really compensate for the loss. I am fine now and have replaced the necessary and am thankful for having sent so much home in Venezuela. The trip to Mexico was an overnight bus trip and suddenly I was in Mexico City. It is pretty high in altitude and very smoggy but it is just a bigger than average city and I had no trouble there at all. Lots of old and very elegant buildings in the centre, mariachi bands in Plaza Garibaldi, the Museo de Anthropologica, parks, palacios, an excellent metro system and a chance to catch my breath.

From there I went to Guanajuanato, a beautifully preserved colonial town about 4hrs drive north of Mexico City. Also a university town under a UN World Heritage site order. I had three days there, and except for the fact that some insect had me for a midnight feast in my hotel, I loved the place. Next stop a town 80 kms away called San Miguel de Allende, and two lovely evenings of music and traditional dances at a local festival. It was done with their magnificent San Rafael Cathedral for a backdrop and with lots of goodwill on the parts of both audience and performers. I then went to Guadalajara, Mexico's second city. It was surprisingly beautiful in the centre although I had only one day and could not do justice to its many advertised attractions. From there I descended further and had a hot and sticky day in Acapulco. It is as ritzy or as grungy as you like and was surprisingly attractive in a slightly citified/beach resort sort of way. Back into the hills and a night at the town of Taxco to wander the streets and try not to buy the mountains of silver on offer. It was full of cobbled streets and silver shops and they were all up hill!

Back to Mexico City and I succumbed to the tummy bug that I picked up somewhere so I did not get to see the Basilica of the Virgin of Guadalupe as I had planned, but I did meet my new leader, Wayne (40, mad, English Exodus driver) and the two (honest!) other fellows on my new “group”, Derry (retired 60+ Australian accountant) and Martin (34, English IT technician). Evidently the van has to be in Panama for a full group in August so they have to relocate it and decided to run the trip despite the lack of numbers. So far it has been great. All of us have travelled extensively and we never seem at a loss for something to say. And while we do not necessarily agree about everything we very quickly established that we wanted to have a good time and were prepared to discuss and find the best option for all. As you can imagine meal times are a group effort and there is no hassle when it comes to trying to do any activity as we fit in anywhere. Should be good – I'll keep you posted!

Since leaving Mexico City, we have had two nights in Oaxaco, visited our first ruins at Monte Alban and Mitla, travelled on to camp in the Sierra Altavesada at Jiquipilas, and now in San Cristóbal. From here we head towards the ruins of Palenque and then to Uxmal and Merida, Chichin Itza and on to the coast. It will evidently be hot and humid from here on and I will not always have email access so the next group letter will probably be from Antigua towards the end of the month.

Thanks Jacqui and keep us posted! If anyone would like to contact Jacqui, her e-mail is: jacquitrotter@yahoo.com

What have you seen on your travels? Drop a line to the Beetle! Beetle@globetrotters.co.uk

Anyone, anywhere in the world, who watched the news during the first half of the 1990s must know about Sarajevo. Sarajevo is the capital of Bosnia and Herzegovina, a small but green and mountainous country with 4 million people, bordered by Croatia to the south and west, and Yugoslavia to the east. The recent war (1992 – 1995) and heavy siege brought unwanted world attention to the city, not to mention approximately 10,500 dead citizens and over 100,000 wounded.

The war is definitely over, and modern day Sarajevo in 2002 has a lot to offer to a tourist. The city itself used to be a “must-visit” destination in the decades before the war, especially if you were visiting Bosnia. After the war, much money has been invested in Sarajevo on improving its infrastructure etc, to encourage the return of tourists, but so far, the visitor figures are disappointing.

Bosnia and Herzegovina is a Western Christian Country with experience of 4 centuries of Ottoman-Turk presence, which made Sarajevo a point where west and east, and north and south meet. Some call the city European Jerusalem, where in a circle of 100 meters one can see several churches, mosques and synagogues together existing and co-existing in peace for centuries. “Equal chances for all” was the motto of the city for centuries, attracting some 10 different religious communities to settle in the city.

There is something to do in Sarajevo all year round. Sarajevo is a big open-air museum, with unique architecture and artefacts from 4000 years of European history. There's plenty to see and do: drink a cold beer in one of the many street cafes, whilst watching the world pass by, one can see: public buildings, squares, fortresses, famous places such as where Archduke Franz Ferdinand was assassinated, igniting WW1, museums, churches, mosques, synagogues, old houses, and much, much more! ATM's are all over the place, as are Internet cafes.

One of the highlights to visit in Sarajevo is the tunnel that was the only supply line during the war for the city and the tunnel museum from the last war. As well as reading and signing the visitor's book, which is almost an historic document in itself, you can actually walk down a small part of the 800 metre long tunnel. You can watch a 20 minute long video, a documentary with real footage from the last war.

Sarajevo was a host to the 14th Olympic games 1984 and has a lot to offer to a winter tourist. Our mountains Igman and Bjelasnica ( 45 minutes by car or bus from city centre) offer skiing 6 months a year with all facilities such as ski-lifts etc. The city is a serious contender for the 2010 Winter Olympics!

Citizens from all of the countries in Western Europe, the U.S.A. and Canada do not need a visa to enter Bosnia and it is easy to get to Sarajevo: 7 international air carriers have routes to Sarajevo, including Austrian Air, Lufthansa, Swiss Air, and Malev. There are also trains and long distance buses connecting Sarajevo with the rest of Europe. These include a daily train from Zagreb, Croatia (9 hrs), and long distance international buses, e.g. from Split (6hrs) and Dubrovnik (5 ½ hrs).

There are hotels to stay, including a phenomenally expensive Holiday Inn. Generally speaking, a room in a modern hotel will cost 45 euros+ (US $45) per person. Staying in a hotel is more or less the same as in any country of the world and is to be recommended only for people that suffer from surplus of money and like being bored. Private accommodation is cheaper, but if your host doesn't speak English too well, and is not officially registered, (proved by ID card with photo + official seal of his/her firm), you'll probably be taken to rooms in some suburb of Sarajevo in a middle of nowhere, apart from being involved in illegal activity. Good hostels or private accommodation in the two main municipalities cost from 15 euros per person.

SARTOUR has a hostel which is situated 10 minutes walk from the historic centre of the city, and offers single, double and triple rooms for 15 euros per person with one of the best views of the city, quiet original Bosnian style atmosphere, and a courtyard and garden for night time schnapps drinking! They can provide services such as English speaking tourist guides for city tours etc. They also offer a big breakfast for 3 euros per person, bike rental, laundry facilities, self-catering, family and group facilities and give our best to make your stay secure and pleasant for fair and reasonable prices. Enjoy a glass or two of our famous Schnapps (plum brandy – 41% alc.), a warm welcome and hospitality.

If you would like to contact Sead to ask him about Bosnia, its history, staying in Bosnia, or touring the area, please e-mail him at: sartour@lsinter.net

Incidentally, all readers of the Globetrotter's E-Newsletter are eligible for a 10 % discount on accommodation in the Sartour hostel, and on tours around the city until 01.01.2003. Next month, the Beetle will be writing about her time in Bosnia.

About Ecuador – the country is the poorest in South America where the average salary is $90 per month. As with all countries, there are many people well off. It is possible to find a very nice hotel for $10 per night with breakfast or stay for hundreds; the Hilton is there. Climate wise, it has it all and no change of seasons being on the Equator, hence Ecuador. Very warm beaches, cool mountains and jungles. All is available via plane and excellent buses. Read up on the lonely planet and Ecuador.

Quito has the second oldest University in the Americas, Lima Peru being the first. Look up the hostel Maple on the web and stay in this part of Quito. There are many such places for $10 to $15/night. You will meet many fellow backpackers and can hook-up with them if alone. Lots of cafes to use the web and make calls home. If you want to take Spanish lessons you can stay with a family or just get private lessons at the numerous schools for a few dollars per hour. Art is wonderful, so bring back many items. The Inca people make their own paints and paint on leather not canvas. Stop them while having coffee on the street and haggle with them before buying to get to know them a little. They will have their special outfits and hats and usually a man and wife. They have to be the sweetest people on the earth. If you do not wish to return to Quito usually via plane because of time or go on to the Galapagos just keep heading south to Peru.

I was warned about Guayaquil's problems with muggings, plus it is hot and muggy-pon. There are several national parks and will take you to the top of the world with their many volcanoes or to the jungles. The people known for shrinking heads and dangling them from their waists come from these jungles. They are still very primitive but now give tours into their jungles. Roast monkey is still their meal of choice. Quito has many expedition companies to all these places.

Then hop a bus south and visit many of the antique Spanish towns, more state parks and spas. The only fairly good road is the Pan-Am highway. I had an Inca guide with horses and went into the Andes. The trails are so steep that without the horses could not have returned. The other roads along steep mountain gorges are very interesting. For $15 a day you can stay at mineral spring spas near Quenca and purify your body with organic foods, drinks, body washes/oils and massages. But, I go for the history and the Inca people. Go to the Indian markets; they are fascinating.

The Inca's meal of choice is deep fried hamster and hedgehog. Inca people are very shy and non-violent. Their civilization was the largest in the world prior to the industrial revolution. Then came the Spanish with small pox, venereal disease, TB, and slavery.

The biggest problem in the world is safe drinking water. I only drink bottled water. But, in Ecuador the locals water down certain juices, and South American fruits are wonderful. They are supposed to use water that is boiled, but hotels may have new help, thus ones ends up with G.I problems of a major magnitude. Get antibiotic Rx immediately. Medical help was excellent and very reasonable in the major cities such as Quito and Quenca; the doctors came immediately to my hostel and there are pharmacies everywhere. Luckily, I always carry 3 cans of those high calorie vitamin drinks and can be purchased in pharmacies; I prefer chocolate flavour, and these helped me through my toughest period of the illness, when I could barely get out of bed to get something to eat. These nutritional canned drinks were also useful on long bus journeys there, when sanitary food was not available. You also may want to carry a better quality toilet paper; it seems the paper in some countries resembles double 0 sandpaper.