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The killing is over on Ambon, the hub of the Moluccas, or Spice Islands, in Indonesia. There is an invisible line drawn between the Christian and Muslim sectors in the City – it is still dangerous to stop on the wrong side. The burnt out churches, houses and even university buildings are reminders of the carnage that occurred a short while ago, when Ambon was likened to Beirut at its worst. “So it was a religious war?” I enquire. “Not really, more the result of political manoeuvrings. Now we have peace and democracy, but no jobs, clean streets or reliable infrastructure, the opposite of neighbouring Singapore.” Almost incredibly, fair and trouble-free elections had just been completed, much to the surprise of the incumbent president, who refused to accept defeat. “I would rather be in the hands of the Chinese army than the Indonesian”, a French photo-journalist told us later, after describing how he had to injure himself to persuade the Chinese soldiers to release him. “You won't be killed or “disappear” in their custody.”

With two friends I drove across the spine of Ambon to Hila, an old village overlooking the much larger island of Ceram, passing countless cloves and nutmegs drying in the sun on the roadside. It was hard to believe that centuries ago such spices were valued more highly than gold, with the result that the islands were a battle-ground for the colonial powers, ending when we swapped our land there for New York, after smuggling out seedlings to establish plantations in India! We hiked up a steep trail, through spice plantations, to a ridge with a spectacular view over the partially forested hillsides. Here we strove to observe two species of parrots endemic to these islands, which we could hear but not see. We returned early the following morning and were rewarded by the sight of the electric Moluccan Red Lory and the “poorly known”, to quote the bird book, but well-named Drab Honeyeater. On the drive back to the airport, we stopped to chat and photo the friendly locals, many of whom were Muslims.

The main reason for going to Ambon was to take a flight to the rarely visited Tanimbar Islands, some two hours east of Ambon. The only flights were with Merpati, whose slogan “Get the feeling” aptly described schedules in these parts as feelings were all you could rely on, with nobody outside their office in Ambon knowing when such flights would occur. Fortunately, we were able to fly to Saumlaki on Yamdena, the main island of the Tanimbars, on the desired day, a most uncomfortable experience in an ancient 22-seater. We then discovered that we could not fly to the relatively close Kai Islands as we wanted, flights having been suspended, and the flight we had “booked” back to Ambon did not run that day. As the previous day was full, we got a booking for the day after, but no tickets as the agent had gone to the airport to investigate why the plane had returned. The answer was that the pilot had felt ill and so decided to come back to Saumlaki, apparently not trusting his co-pilot to take-over.

The Tanimbars are at almost the south-eastern extremity of the 5000 km long Indonesian Archipelago, only 150 km from the coast of Australia. Unlike most of the country, the population is predominantly Christian. At the Harapan Indah, the only hotel in town, we arranged to stay at the owners' farm 21 km along the island's only road, so that we had ready access to the native forest. By the time we reached the farm, after supplies had been purchased, including a crate of beer, it was raining – the first time for 4 months so it was said. We had come here to try to see the 20 or more special birds endemic to these parts, a surprisingly high number for such a relatively small area. When the rain stopped, we set forth, amongst much bird activity, but were disappointed to find the extensive forest reported to be present by the last person we knew to have visited, some 10 years ago, had gone and only patches of logged forest remained. However, over the next 4 days we saw all the specialities, including 2 parrots, 2 thrushes and 5 flycatchers, apart from the Tanimbar Scrubfowl, sadly scarce or elusive due to hunting, and the Pied Bronze Cuckoo. Strangely, I had recorded the song of the cuckoo on the first afternoon, but never heard it again. According to the book, it parasitizes the endemic Rufous sided Gerygone, but the only bird to react to the playback of its song, on several occasions, was the Wallacean Whistler – indicating that this species is the main host for the cuckoo's eggs.

On the last afternoon, we visited the old village of Turgham. We started at the mayor's house, where a meeting of the village elders was in progress. After mutual greetings, we signed the visitors book, noting that all previous visitors of the last 2-3 years looked to be either Indonesians or Australians, the latter associated with the annual Darwin to Saumlaki boat race apparently. At a wood-carver's house we bought a number of carvings from the selection on offer by several local artists – good quality and value. We were invited to drink a glass of Soli, local spirit distilled from palm wine- highly alcoholic and surprisingly smooth. Returning to the Harapan Indah in Saumlaki, we enjoyed the air-conditioning, until ended by a power cut, and were amused to observe the staff ironing banknotes flat, perhaps to facilitate storage as even the smallest item can require a large number of notes, the exchange rate being 16, 000 Rupiah to the pound. The trappings of civilisation are a bit thin on the ground here: no mobile phone cover, internet access or shopping malls. Predictably, our flight was delayed by late arrival of the plane but this gave us chance to study the profusion of Oriental Plovers and Little Curlews on the runway – two species rarely encountered away from their wintering grounds in northern Australia. It was a shame we could not fly to Kai but we all agreed this last minute extension to our eastern Indonesia trip had been a highly rewarding and pleasant experience.

Which countries are represented by these flags? For the answers, see at the end of the eNews.

Luckily there are many ways to go hiking over the weekend and most of them are accessible by train or bus from New York City. Possibly the most famous trail of all is the Appalachian Trail, which starts in Georgia and goes all the way up to Maine. But for day trips or a hike of a few hours, you can take a bus or train from the city.

The most popular way to get there is by train from Grand Central Station. There are two early morning trains that run on weekends only. The train will drop you off at a tiny station (Appalachian Trail station) that runs right through the trail. The walks North or South along the trail are both picturesque, but the South walk is possibly less strenuous and better for beginners. You first walk along planks through a swampy area. Then you enter a lovely forest area. Suddenly the forest ends and you are out in the open, in the middle of fields and farms. Walk along the sides of farms and you can wave hello to the cows and horses that inhabit them. The backdrop to these fields and farms are gorgeous mountains, which are especially picturesque in the autumn months when the colours of leaves change. Bring a camera as there are some lovely photo opportunities. Then cross the road and enter another forest area; but this one feels different to the last. You will see new types of plants and trees in this area. So the walk is a real feast for the senses and the trail keeps taking you through different terrain and landscapes. You can hike for either 3 hours or 5 hours before you have to get back to the tiny station for your return train to the city.

It is also possible to take the Metro North train to Cold Spring train station. There are many trails within walking distance of the train station but for the Appalachian Trail you have to go into the sports store near the station. It is one of the first stores you will see along Main Street when you leave the end of the platform. For a small fee, they provide shuttle service to the trail. It would be wise to book ahead but on weekends they have regular service for the many hikers that enjoy the area, especially in the warmer months. You are dropped off at the trail head and they pick you up at a specified time later in the day. The trains back to New York City run every hour.

Another route would be to take the bus to the Appalachian trail from Port Authority Bus Terminal (there is a bus that goes to Bear Mountain as well as to the Military Academy across the Hudson River). It is a 2-3 hour ride, but the bus leaves you right at the trail and then you have a few hours to hike before getting the bus back to New York. There are toilet facilities in Bear Mountain State Park, and also places to buy drinks or snacks. The Appalachian Trail runs directly through the park and there are also several other enjoyable trails in the area, including one around a large lake that is very picturesque.

Still another possibility is to take a bus from Port Authority to the Delaware Water Gap in Pennsylvania. The Gap is right on the border of Pennsylvania and New Jersey and the Appalachian Trail runs right through the town there too. It is a 2-3 hour ride and a short walk from the bus station through the middle of town to the trail itself. The town has a few shops and places to eat, and even trolley tours of the area (during the warm months only). Again, you can spend several hours exploring the area and hiking the trail before returning to New York City.

There is little excuse not to hike the famous trail and enjoy all the benefits of a walk in the woods. A tranquil break from the hustle and bustle of the Big Apple is always welcome.

Sun at Midnight is a book by Rosie Thomas, due to be published in July 2005 by Harper Collins. The book is based around her stay on a research station in Antarctica. We wanted to include a brief account of Rosie and her forthcoming book to give inspiration to other aspiring authors. It is only in recent years following a divorce and her children finding their own way in the world has Rosie had her life to herself. Travelling across deserts, partaking in international car rallies and scaling high mountains are so much easier without the family baggage. Once she was established as a successful writer and her children were grown, she discovered a love of travelling and mountaineering. She has climbed in the Alps and the Himalayas, competed in the Peking to Paris car rally, and spent time on a tiny Bulgarian research station in Antarctica to research this novel. Woman and Home magazine said this of Praise for SUN AT MIDNIGHT: 'This is an epic love story set against breathtaking descriptions of Antarctic waste.' Look out for it!

Link: http://www.harpercollins.com/

The Whale shark (Rhincodon Typus) is the largest fish in the world, growing up to 12m (40 feet) in length. Though massive in size, whale sharks are completely harmless and feed on plankton and small fish which are filtered from the water as they cruise the world's oceans. Despite their size, whale sharks are remarkably gentle and curious. They have a slow growth rate, only reaching maturity at around 30 years old and living as long as 60 – 100 years. Their reproduction rate is also very slow – long intervals between pregnancies and producing around a few hundred pups at one time.

Whale Sharks are located near the Equator around coast lines and open seas. They swim mostly along the top of the surface. Whale sharks can be found in the following areas:

• Western Atlantic: New York to central Brazil and including Gulf of Mexico and Caribbean.
• Eastern Atlantic: Senegal, Mauritania, Cape Verde Islands, Gulf of Guinea.
• Indo-West and Central Pacific: South Africa and Red Sea to Pakistan, India, Sri Lanka, Malaysia, Thailand, China, Japan, Philippines, Indonesia (Kalimantan, Java, Irian Jaya), Papua New Guinea, Australia (Queensland, Northern Territory), New Caledonia, Hawaiian Islands.
• Eastern Pacific: Southern California to northern Chile.
• Indian Ocean: the Seychelles, Mauritius, Zanzibar, Madagascar, Mozambique and northernmost Natal.

Unfortunately, in some countries such as India and the Philippines, the whale shark is often hunted for meat which is sold to feed the rich in SE Asia, where whale shark meat is an expensive delicacy. Numbers have certainly been reduced, but with the migratory habits of the sharks, it is very difficult to track and count them.

February to May: The time of year to see a whale shark in Thailand is between February and May.

April to June: Whale shark sightings are extremely common on the Ningaloo Reef in the months of mid April-June. A spotter plane communicates with boats as it spots the large shadow of a whale shark near the surface. Interactions are regulated by CALM (Conservation and Land Management), which limits the number of snorkellers in the water with a shark to a maximum of 10 and does not allow the use of flash photography. There are also strictly regulated guidelines including the distance a snorkeller should stay from the animal and how long a single interaction with a whale shark may last. These measures are mainly to reduce stress to the sharks, another unknown factor for scientists, even though people have been interacting with whale sharks on the Ningaloo for many years.

April to June: southern Belize offers whale shark spotting opportunities. The best time to do so during these months are three days before the full moon to three days after the last quarter moon. It's during these times that the Cubera Snappers spawn, attracting the Whale Sharks.

July to September: Rarely seen in shallow coastal waters, whale sharks have been regular visitors to the Sea of Cortez near Bahia de Los Angeles, Baja California, Mexico are closest to the US and are a good place to encounter whale sharks at this time of year.

November to April: whale sharks can be seen around Richelieu Rock in the North Andaman Sea.

If you have had a whale shark encounter, the Beetle would love to hear from you!

Where is Armenia? Armenia is the smallest of the former Soviet republics, bounded by Georgia to the north, Azerbaijan to the east, Iran to the south, and Turkey to the west. Aremenia counts amongst one of the world's oldest civilizations and once included Mount Ararat, (now in modern day Turkey) the mountain identified in the bible as being where Noah's ark rested after the flood. Under Tigrane the Great (fl. 95-55 B.C.) the Armenian Empire reached its height and became one of the most powerful in Asia, starching from the Caspian to the Mediterranean Seas. Throughout most of its long history, however, Armenia has been invaded by a succession of conquerors- the Greeks, Romans, Persians, Byzantines, Mongols, Arabs, Ottoman Turks, and the Russians.

From the 16th century through to World War I, significant parts of Armenia were controlled by the Ottoman Turks, under whom they experienced discrimination, religious persecution, heavy taxation, and armed attacks. In response to Armenian nationalist stirrings, the Turks massacred thousands of Armenians in 1894 and 1896. After the Turkish defeat in World War I, the independent Republic of Armenia was established on May 28, 1918, but survived only until November 29, 1920, when it was annexed by the Soviet Army. On March 12, 1922, the Soviets joined Georgia, Armenia, and Azerbaijan to form the Transcaucasian Soviet Socialist Republic, which became part of the U.S.S.R. In 1936, after a reorganization, Armenia became a separate constituent republic of the U.S.S.R.

Armenia declared its independence from the collapsing Soviet Union on September 23, 1991. An Armenian Diaspora has existed throughout the nation's history, and Armenian emigration has been particularly heavy since independence from the Soviet Union. An estimated 60% of the total eight million Armenians worldwide live outside the country, with one million each in the U.S. and Russia. Significant Armenian communities are located in Georgia, France, Iran, Lebanon, Syria, Argentina, and Canada.

Armenia – acknowledged as one of the cradles of civilization – is a beautiful country with a sophisticated people and a long and cultured history. As a result, Armenia is an intriguing tourist destination. Numerous monuments and masterpieces of the Ancient era and Middle Ages can be found throughout the country. Tourism in Armenia is rooted in the country's historical landmarks and natural attractions such as the water resorts of Lake Seventh hot springs of Arzni and Jermuk, the forests of Dilijan, Aghveran, Tsaghkadzor, Bjurakan and Gugark, and the mountainous natural caves and cliffs of the Southeast region. The 5165 meter Mount Ararat, geographically located in Turkey, is a national symbol of Armenia and is visible from much of the Southwest region.

The majestic peaks of Mount Ararat provide a stunning backdrop to Yerevan. The monastery of Khor-Virab and the ruins of the ancient city of Dvin (dating back to the second century BC) are located in the mid-distance Aerial view of Yerevan, capital of Armenia Statue of Komitas, one of Armenia's most loved composers, outside the Komitas Conservatory. Apart from writing many original composition, Komitas travelled the country noting down folk songs for posterity Yerevan, which is nestled in the shadow of the snow-capped heights of the majestic mount Ararat, where the Biblical Noah's Ark first landed escaping the Great Flood, is the capital city of Armenia. With a population numbering over 1.2 million, Yerevan is a bustling city. The central plaza, Republic Square, is designed in the Armenian national style and houses the Government House, the Cabinet and other governmental offices as well as the Erebuni and Armenia hotels.

Also situated on Republic Square are the Armenian History Museum and the Art Gallery of Armenia. Here, one finds informative and interesting models and artefacts of ancient Urartu and Armenia. In the Art Gallery one finds a worthy section on Armenian art from the seventh century AD. Amongst the many other museums in the capital city, the two most interesting house museums are those of landscape artist Martiros Saryan (1880-1972) and twentieth century composer Aram Khatchaturyan.

Yerevan, the ancient capital of Armenia, extends you a warm and friendly welcome. It is one of the oldest cities in the world. The earliest recorded settlement there dates back to 782 BC. King Argishty I founded a fortress city in the north-eastern part of present-day Yerevan, with the following cuneiform inscription, “With the majesty of God Khald, Argishty, son of Menua, built up this inaccessible castle and named it Erebuni…” You can still see relics from this part of our history at the Erebuni Museum in Yerevan.

As you explore the many interesting sights in Yerevan, you will learn about the culture and history of one of the world's oldest nations.

If you would like more information about Armenia, contact the author of this article, Mr Mushegh Gevorgyan, who can assist with tours, visas and translation services: tours@orient.am

Country tatistics: highest population density.

Source: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/List_of_countries_by_population_density

What is it: there are believed to be at least 15 different types of avian flu that routinely infect birds around the world. The current outbreak is caused by a strain known as H5N1, which is highly contagious among birds and rapidly fatal. Unfortunately, unlike many other strains of avian flu, it can be transmitted to humans, causing severe illness and death.

How do I get it: human cases have been blamed on direct contact with infected chickens and their droppings. People who catch the virus from birds can pass it on to other humans, although the disease is generally milder in those who caught it from an infected person rather than from birds.

What happens if I get it: bird flu can cause a range of symptoms in humans – some patients report fever, cough, sore throat and muscle aches. Others suffer from eye infections, pneumonia, acute respiratory distress and other severe and life-threatening complications.

Diagnose and treatment: flu drugs exist that may be used both to prevent people from catching bird flu and to treat those who have it. Currently there is no vaccine, although scientists are working to develop one.

How can I avoid contracting rabies: the World Health Organization recommends that infected or exposed flocks of chickens and other birds be killed in order to help prevent further spread of the virus and reduce opportunities for human infection. However, the agency warns that safety measures must be taken to prevent exposure to the virus among workers involved in culling.