Here is an appeal by Michael on behalf of the American Friends for the Kigali Public Library (the AFKPL) for help creating Rwanda’s first public library. Michael is a regular contributor to the Globetrotters e-newsletter.

My wife and I recently returned to the United States from a one-year journey through Africa. During the last three months of the trip, we enjoyed the privilege of working in the Prosecutor’s Office of the United Nations International Criminal Tribunal for Rwanda. As part of the job, I poured through reams of scholarly texts, investigators’ reports and trial transcripts and interviewed witnesses during two trips to Rwanda. The more I learned, the more shocked and disgusted I became. The more I thought about the events that occurred, the more I questioned humankind’s decency, its purpose, and its future. In Rwanda, I met with a man who watched his mother bludgeoned to death, with a woman repeatedly raped and with a man who snuck his family across the Congolese border in oil drums. Even now, I sometimes lie awake wondering what is wrong with all of us. How can we allow these things to occur? Who among us is willing to participate in such acts? Who among us seeks to profit?

My understanding of the Rwandan genocide developed in stages. After reading about the country’s cultural history and the events that occurred leading up to and during the genocide, I finally started to comprehend what these murderers sought to accomplish. It may sound naïve and even a bit stupid, but until that point I never could comprehend one person’s desire to destroy another. Suddenly, the events of the Holocaust, which I had read about, spoken about and felt sorrow over for years, took on a cold reality. For the first time, my brain clicked into focus and I understood the mindset of a people that sought to destroy systematically the entire population of its self-defined enemy.

With this realization in mind, I visited Rwanda and saw a country devastated by its own havoc. Years after the tragedy, a palpable sense of ruin hangs in the air. Commerce functions at a virtual standstill. Street hawkers carry a threatening gleam in their eyes. Were they once machete-wielding murderers? You can’t help but wonder. Bullet-ridden, pock-marked homes and sidewalks with bullet casings protruding from the ground are common sightings. One senses that so many of Rwanda’s people fell so far below the edge of decency that they no longer know how to live without abuse. One wonders what will be the next phase in the struggle between the Rwandan people. Then one realizes that the simmering depravity that plagues Rwanda is not localized to that country. So much of Africa has endured horrific violence. Rwanda’s western neighbour, the Democratic Republic of the Congo, is the inspiration for Joseph Conrad’s Heart of Darkness.

Having returned to the United States armed with little but a sense of helplessness and the desire to cause positive change, I teamed up with some dedicated people and joined the American Friends for the Kigali Public Library (the “AFKPL”). In connection with a Rwandan chapter of the Rotary Club, we are working to build Rwanda’s first public library. It is our hope that the library will serve as a place of solace for the wounded, a haven of intellectual growth for the curious and bedrock of enlightenment for all. We have already begun construction on the library, obtained commitments for book donations from publishers and we have raised approximately $750,000 of our $1,200,000 budget.

If anyone would like to donate his or her time, money or books to the cause, please do not hesitate to contact me at mrakower@hotmail.com.

We have more information about the AFKPL, which includes its contact information. If you would like to see this, please e-mail me. Also, for those of you living in England, an organization at the University of Oxford called the Marshall Scholars for the Kigali Public Library is contributing to the new library. Zachary Kaufman (zachary.kaufman@magdalen.oxford.ac.uk) is the contact there.

As a fellow Globie, I appreciate your support. Together we can cause positive change.

Sincerely, Michael Rakower

You know when you’ve been Dengued. Or do you’

After spending two weeks in the south of Thailand, I caught an over night bus from Sarat Thani back to Bangkok. That morning, to my surprise I managed to reschedule my flight due out the following day to Australia. Delighted that I had extended my stay in Thailand I went out that night and celebrated.

After sleeping for four hours, I woke with a rumbling stomach. I tried to ignore it. Dozing in and out of consciousness, my bowels decided that I needed to perch on the toilet. In Thailand, this seemed hardly unusual and I was not alarmed until daylight appeared: I realized I had been decorating the toilet at least ten times in three hours. Was I glad not to be on that fourteen-hour flight to Australia!

I had a persistent headache throughout the day and I noticed a pain in my lower back had become worse. That afternoon I went to the cinema. While seated the pain in my back spread down into my legs. Constantly fidgeting, I struggled to concentrate on the movie. The walk back to the house was exhausting so I went straight to bed.

OK so every one has been ill or felt pain at some point in life. Independent self-diagnosis of symptoms overrides concern about our well being and we often think nothing of it. Let’s look at the symptoms:

Diarrhoea – Is that not compulsory when travelling abroad?

Back pain – My backpack, one week sleeping in a wooden hut and then the overnight bus …..

Fever – What fever? It was the beginning of May – 40 degrees centigrade plus – Thailand's hottest time of year. The rainy season was building up and the air was extremely close.

Headache – Not much sleep recently, possible dehydration from the heat and, … erm …. hangover.

Leg ache – Did I drink any cheap Thai whiskey last night?

The next morning, I was no better. Noi, my host, took me to the doctor. Once inside the hospital, the nurse routinely took my blood pressure before seeing the doctor. I recounted my symptoms and he suggested I have a blood test. OK, so I hate needles! It’s not so much that I hate injections – they just jab into you and then that is it over and done. No, it’s the searching for a suitable vein first (can understand that, Beetle!).

The nurse hunted up and down my arms and around my hands for ages. Hurry up, I thought. I started to hyperventilate. Failing on the first vein, the nurse got some blood on the second. Then another needle appeared with a clear bag of liquid attached to it. I became nervous again. “What's it for?” I asked Noi. 'It is to make you strong” she said. “OK but what is it?” I asked. “Water. Don’t worry. It is OK” Noi tried to reassure me. “I will come back in six hours when it is finished.”

Six hours! Now lets slow down a minute. If I go to the doctor back home, I do not get put on a drip of water for six hours. Promising to drink plenty of mineral water, and with a recommendation to return in three days, I left the hospital.

Two days passed and I still felt unwell. I decided to have a flick through my travel health book. OK, what am I looking for here? I started with back pain. Sprains. Slipped discs… other types of back pain: Dengue Fever. What is that, I had never heard of it before. I read the symptoms. Hang on a minute – back pain yep, fever yep, diarrhoea yep, banging headaches yep. Oh no! Please don't tell me, I have this …… wait for it … tropical disease!

I realised it was quite possible. The white-backed mosquito carries Dengue Fever and outbreaks are particularly common in South East Asia – where I had been. They generally bite in the daytime. On reflection, I had fallen asleep in my hut one afternoon and woke up to find a circle of mosquito bites on my left leg.

I read on: although the symptoms are similar to that of Malaria, I discovered there is nothing you can do to prevent catching it, except slap on lots of insect repellent. A vaccine is still in the process of being developed. The good news is that you cannot catch it from another person. The bad news is that it is serious. There are four different strains of Dengue fever. Catching one kind only gives immunity to that strain. There is also the far more serious Dengue Haemorrhagic Fever, which causes the sufferer to bleed to death without immediate medical attention. This usually only occurs in children under fifteen.

Gulp…what if I am infected, am I going to die or be permanently affected by it?

It was now day three and I was feeling worse than ever. For the first time in my life, when a doctor has told me to return, I had to obey.

In part 2, Ingrid tells us of her stay in a Thai hospital, visits from ants and priests and how she recovered!

If you would like to contact Ingrid, who is currently in Chile, you can e-mail her on:gr.ing.a.rid@latinmail.com

Muir’s Tours recently launched their volunteer teaching programme in Peru and it is proving to be very popular with Gap Year students. They have now set up another teaching facility in the ancient settlement of Huancayo where you can experience pre Inca culture and hospitality.

For more information, see http://www.nkf-mt.org.uk/volunteer_Huancayo_Peru.htm

The World’s Top 5 Cleanest Countries

1. Finland
2. Norway
3. Canada
4. Sweden
5. Switzerland

New Zealand comes 6^th, Australia 7^th, the US 11^th, the UK 16th.

Source: http://www.aneki.com/lists.html

Indonesia is the largest archipelago and the fifth most populous country in the world. Consisting of five main islands and 30 smaller archipelagos, it has a total of 13.677 of which about 6.000 are inhabited. It stretches 5.120 km (3.200 miles) between Australia and the Asia mainland and divides the Pacific and Indian Ocean at the equator. The third largest country in Asia in terms of both population and area after China and India, Indonesia’s national territory consist for 84 percent of sea and only for 16 percent of land. The five biggest islands are Kalimantan (539,460 sq km), Sumatra (473,606 sq km), Irian Jaya (421,952 sq km), Sulawesi (189,035 sq km) and Java including Madura (132,035 sq km).

It is a destination which offers diverse interests in a great variety of cultures, scenic beauty of its island, customs and the natural architecture of green paddy fields, all enveloped in a warm tropical climate.

SUMATRA

Sumatra, the archipelago’s second largest island consists of an extraordinary wealth of resources, peoples and cultures. Medan is the gateway for travel to Lake Toba, the world largest volcanic lake. The enchanting Samosir island in the middle of the lake is the best place to observe traditional Batak culture. Adventurous travellers will visit Mt. Leuser National park, one of the richest in South East Asia, with unspoiled ecological systems supporting more than 500 species of birds, 3500 species of plants and housing endangered species such as sumatranese tiger and rhinoceros, elephants, gibbons. Orang utan can be easily approached in Bahorok rehabilitation center, deep in the dense jungle. Surf lovers as well as remote culture seekers will find it all in the unique island of Nias.

JAVA

Java is one of nature’s masterworks: some 120 volcanoes (30 are still active) have spread over the times fertile ashes supporting an extraordinary luxuriant vegetation. Such natural blessings were turned to great advantage by untold generations of Javanese who sculpted rice terraces everywhere it was possible to. The glorious civilization of ancient java – producers of masterpieces such as Borobudur and Prambanan temple, was founded on this agricultural bounty and since the early times, java has exerted an inordinate influence over the surrounding areas. Today over 110 million of people live here, in an area only as large as England. (60% of Indonesia total populations). The political cultural and economic heart of the worlds 5^th largest nation, Java has no peer as a place to visit. Found here is every imaginable landscape and treasure. Java is indeed a microcosm of all the wonders and the burdens of this great island nation.

SULAWESI or CELEBES

Sulawesi or Celebes Island. A glance at any map of Sulawesi, formerly known as Celebes, immediately highlights the island’s strangest attribute; its shape. Variously described as looking like an orchid, a spider or a giant crab, the island four “arms” radiate from a mountainous core. Despite covering an area nearly as large as Britain, no place is more than 40 km from the sea. Most people visit the island to see the Toraja, living in the south province. Their funerals ceremonies, cliff burial sites and soaring roofed houses makes this culture on of the most fascinating in the world. Makasar (formerly Ujung Pandang), Sulawesi largest city is the usual port of entry. Manado on the northern tip offers some of the best diving in the country and is also becoming increasingly popular.

KALIMANTAN or BORNEO

Kalimantan, the Indonesian part of Borneo is a huge, thinly populated territory of swamps, jungle, mountains and rivers. Approximately the size of France, Kalimantan’s 10 million inhabitants make just 5% of the country population, most of which is concentrated in coastal cities. If you are looking for jungle and jungle culture, Kalimantan is your destination. The eastern province is the most popular destination with Balikpapan, an oil industry center as a gateway. Board a comfortable houseboat and wind your way slowly up the fascinating Mahakam River into the Dayak people land. Once known as the force headhunters, the Dayak have for long abandoned this tradition but have maintained their unique culture and most still live traditional long houses set on stilts. Banjarmasin in the southern province has certainly the biggest and most authentic floating market in Asia and is a good starting point for wildlife expeditions to Tanjung Putting National Park and the orang utans rehabilitation center at Camp Leakey.

IRIAN JAYA

Irian Jaya is the largest and most eastern province of Indonesia and covers the western half of the island of New Guinea, the eastern part of the island is the territory of Papua New Guinea (PNG). Almost three quarter of the island consist of high mountains. The rest is wide lowlands, deep valley, wide muddy river mouths, swamps and jungle. The primitive cultures of the Irian tribes are of special interest. The Baliem valley in the central part of Irian Jaya is very well known and the natural beauty is enhanced by the people’s faithful adherence to their ancestral customs and traditions.

Well, if you are thinking of holiday trip, or even just information on any travel requirements in Indonesia, please do not hesitate to contact us: abctour_td@cbn.net.id We will be most happy to assist you.

On the way to Buenos Aires

We only did two visits during the five days it took to drive from Tierra del Fuego to Buenos Aires (BA) and so we arrived in that capital city ready for a rest and some comfortable beds! The only problem was, although our hotel was situated right bang in the centre of BA, we were not only on a street that was a regular bus route, but arrived at a time when major road works were going on all over BA and one set of which were right outside our hotel, so what with traffic all around us, pneumatic drills and revelers in the early hours, it was difficult to get any sleep! And of course it was very hot, but not as hot as it had been apparently, when temperatures had reached 40+. At least our temperatures were more in the high 20s/early 30s.

But BA was an incredible place, with long, extremely wide, roads cutting across it, all with their names reflecting history – names of specific dates such as “Avenida de 9 Julio” reflecting I believe their independence day; others after names of presidents such as “Avenida de Mayo” etc. We were only there for 5 nights, 4 days, and so spent most of it trying to get in as much catching up on emails and see as much of the sights as possible, including a trip to Uruguay for the day.

Of course, we all did our separate things, Judith and I sharing a room and our experiences and in the end we saw a great deal of the capital but not enough as it turned out as a lot of the museums were closed on a Monday (we arrived on a Thursday evening, and were leaving again early on the Tuesday) so our time was rather limited.

Friday was spent recovering from our epic five day journey and just looking around the immediate locality, getting laundry done and catching up on bits and pieces of shopping; Saturday it poured down all day long, but undaunted Judith and I went to see Eva Perón’s tomb (which was very low key, tucked away nondescriptly in one of a great number of rows of mausoleums in a cemetery just off the main central part of BA). But Judith was enthralled by it and had to have her photo taken in front of it, which I obligingly did on my camera as she had forgotten hers and it had been put in the hotel safe as a security precaution!

We also visited a famous part of BA called La Bocca which is really the slum area of BA but which has been renovated in parts and houses a thriving arts community. Many of the walls have murals depicting the history of the area but there are also many art shops and displays to wander around, besides street musicians and wandering artists, and of course the obligatory touristy shops! It had a lot of character and we spent the evening there, having a meal in one of the restaurants and enjoying the experience. To get there we had travelled on the bus and metro and that was quite an experience, especially travelling on the bus as although they do stop at designated bus stops, they will also open their doors and wait for you if you just signal them, but invariably this has to be when they are caught in a traffic jam because very often the public buses seem to be in a great hurry to get somewhere and very often drive straight past bus stops even when people are queuing there.

On the Sunday we went across to Uruguay for the day – taking the local ferry across the River Uruguay that took just under 3 hours. We left our hotel at 8am and took a taxi to the local ferry port, which was teeming with life. First of all we had to purchase a ticket, and went to one of the local ferry operators for this and that took some 40 minutes to be processed and then we had to queue for embarkation and get a stamp exiting Argentina and another stamp for entering Uruguay, and, of course, on the way back we had to then exit Uruguay and reenter Argentina.

But the day was brilliantly sunny and so we sat on deck for the entire outward crossing to Uruguay although on the return journey at 1845 it was too chilly to do this and so we spent almost the entire journey in one of the very crowded saloons, jam-packed with the day trippers, locals as well as tourists.

We went to a place called Colonia. We could have gone to Montevideo, the capital of Uruguay but it would have been going from one big city to another, and so chose a “luxury” day trip fare to Colonia, (much nicer than Montevideo, Iris – Beetle) which is an ancient town some 150 km down the coast from Montevideo, which is a World Heritage site because of its old town with some of the original town wall surviving and lots of its old original houses from the 17th and 18th centuries not only still standing but still being used as homes and businesses by the local population, with the proviso they do not alter the structures noticeably.

Our package included a two-course lunch, a guided tour of the new and old towns of Colonia, and of course the return ferry fare. It proved a really rewarding day out, as although it was visited by so many, it was well organized and even the old town did not seem that overcrowded with tourists and one was able to walk around, admire the old architecture and the views along the river and learn something of the history of the place, which was originally settled by the Spanish and then taken over by the Portuguese and became part of Brazil until it got its independence in the 19th century.

Monday was spent in BA, catching up on emails, and visiting the opera house and the presidential palace. Of the opera house, we only got a very brief inside glimpse as it is closed on a Monday for cleaning and normally groups are not allowed in. However, Judith is a very persuasive lady and with her “pretty please” approach, swung us a brief glance inside the auditorium with its plush furnishings etc. Then we moved on to the presidential palace, first of all to look at the archives and catacombs and later to go on a guided tour of the palace itself. Unfortunately, the guided tour was in Spanish only and so most of the time we had to be content to just admire the magnificent architecture and furnishings rather than learn much about its history and unfortunately books in English on the palace weren’t to be had, but of course, we associated it with Eva Peron and looked at it all with her image well in mind!

Next month, Iris tells us of her visit to the Iguaçu Falls.

If you’d like to contact Iris, whether to wish her luck with her trip or to ask questions about her itinerary and places visited, I am sure she would like to hear from you. She can be contacted on: irisej2002@yahoo.co.uk